Hokitika Overview

Virtually all of New Zealand’s jade (greenstone) is quarried within a 20km radius of Hokitika (ho-kuh-TEEK-uh; pop. 4000), and as a result jade stores as well as gold, glass and wood craft stores fill the city’s quiet streets. Tourist buses passing through Hokitika usually stop only as long as it takes to ring up the orders. Those who stay longer in Hokitika have the opportunity to watch artisans at work, carve their own bone or greenstone piece, or simply meander along the beach to enjoy a magnificent sunset over the Tasman Sea. Hokitika’s busiest day of the year features the extremely popular Wildfoods Festival, held the second weekend in March.

Transportation. InterCity drops off at Hokitika Travel Centre, 60 Tancred St. (☎755 8557), and runs daily to Fox Glacier (3hr., 2:55pm, $38) via Franz Josef Glacier (2hr., $35) and to Nelson (7hr., 12:30pm, $62) via Greymouth (45min., $15) and Westport (3hr., $38). Coast-to-Coast (☎0800 800 847) goes to Christchurch (4hr., 12:45pm, $35) via Arthur’s Pass (2hr., $20). Atomic (☎0508 108 359) comes to Hokitikia only on demand and runs to Greymouth (45min.; 10:15am, 12:45pm; $10) and on to Christchurch (4hr., $350) as well as to Queenstown (10hr., 8am, $80) via Franz Josef Glacier (2hr., $35) and Fox Glacier (3hr., $40).

Practical Information. The Westland i-Site is in the Carnegie Building, Tancred and Hamilton St. (☎755 6166. Open M-F 8:30am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm. In winter M-F 8:30am-5pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm.) The local DOC is on Sewell St. near the river. (☎756 8282. Open M-F 8am-4:30pm.) Other services include: banks with ATMs near the corner of Weld and Revell St.; the police, 50 Sewell St. (☎756 8310); Westland Medical Centre, 54 Sewell St. (☎755 8180); Westland Pharmacy, 10 Weld St. (☎755 8150; open M-F 8:30am-5:15pm, Sa 9:30am-12:30pm, Su 10:30-11:30am); Internet access at Aim West Sports, 20 Weld St. (☎755 8947. $3 per 30min., $5 per hr.; open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa 9am-1pm) and Global Gossip, 15 Weld St. (☎755 7768. Internet $2 per 15min., $5 per hr.; laptops $3 per 30min.; open in summer M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 8:30am-3pm; in winter M-F 8:30am-5:30pm, Sa 9am-1pm); and the post office, at Revell and Weld St. (☎756 8034; open M-F 9am-5pm).

Accommodations. If you decide to stay in Hokitika overnight, try the Blue Spur Lodge (BBH) , 5km out of the city on Hampden Rd., which becomes Hau Hau Rd. and then Blue Spur Rd.; turn left on unsealed Cement Lead Rd. and follow signs. The wood lodge is as private as hostels get with 100 acres, a 1hr. bushwalk and an open gold mine tunnel where guests can pan for gold using the lodge’s free equipment. (☎755 8445; bluespur@xtra.co.nz. Bike rental $15 per day. Dorms $23; ensuite doubles $75. 4-person self-contained cottage $150. MC/V.) Birdsong , 124 SH6, 2km north of town, houses backpackers in bird-themed rooms with ocean views. Watch the sunset in the hot outdoor “Bushman Baths” ($4) or from the balcony. (☎755 7179. Dorms $25; singles $40; twins and doubles $60, ensuite $70. $3 BBH discount. MC/V.) Shining Star , 11 Richards Dr., 1km north of the town center, provides seaside accommodation for campers and caravaners. The wood cabins are sparkling clean, if lacking in personality. (☎755 8921 or 0800 744 646; www.accommodationwestcoast.co.nz. Doubles from $60, with bath and kitchen $75-149. Tent sites $12 per person; powered sites $14-15. MC/V.) In and old nurse’s accommodation, Seaview Lodge and Kotuku Hostel (BBH) , Seaview Hill Rd., 1km north of town fork right off SH6, is a sprawling property of accommodations overlooking a view better than other places in town. (☎755 5230; www.seaviewlodge.co.nz. Dorms $30; doubles $50, ensuite $100. $3 BBH discount.) The rooms and facilities at Mountain Jade (BBH) , 41 Weld St., are as sterile as, if less flashy than, the jade showroom overlooking the lounge. (☎755 8007; www.jadefactory.com. Reception at Jade Factory in same building. Dorms $18; twins and doubles $45-60; self-contained unit for 2-5 people $80. $3 BBH discount.) Stumpers , 2 Weld St., in an old hotel has an upbeat, if impersonal atmosphere. (☎755 6154; www.stumpers.co.nz. Dorms $25; twins $60; doubles $50, with bath $60.)

Food.  Café de Paris , on the corner of Tancred and Hamilton St., exudes class. Simple, flavorful dishes like warm lamb or sweet chilli chicken salads are $15.50; mains run $26.50-27.50. Try a wine from Maison Esquilat, an award-winning winery also owned by the proprietor. (☎755 8933. Lunch $12.50-16.50; panini $9. Open daily 7:30am-9pm, closes earlier in winter.) Savor tea and hot meals at Adz on Tancred , 39 Tancred St., home to the largest collection of tea cups and some of the finest tea ($3, $4.50 for 2) in New Zealand. (☎755 8379 or 0800 832 768. All day breakfast $8.50-15. Open daily 8am-3:30pm.) The beginning and end of Hokitita’s nightlife, the Tin Shed , 89 Revell St., lives up to its name with a stripped down decorating scheme, cheap drinks and filling meals. (☎755 8444. All day breakfast $14; large pizzas $20; burgers $12. Beer $3.50-6.50. Open daily 10am-3pm and 6:30-as late as 1am.) Stock up on groceries at New World, 116 Revell St. This is the last large supermarket north of Wanaka and has the best prices before then. (☎755 8390. Open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa 8am-7pm, Su 9am-7pm.)

Crafts. In spite of the touristy kitsch that accompanies the sale of crafts, well-made and reasonably priced pieces can be found in Hokitika, often along with the opportunity to watch artisans at work. At  Bonz ’n Stonz, 83 Revell St., aspiring jewellers work alongside master craftsman Steve Gwaliasi to create jade, bone, paua shell, or mother of pearl pieces. Would-be carvers have complete creative control, from the initial drawing to the final polish. (☎0800 214 949 or 755 6504; www.bonz-n-stonz.co.nz. Jade pieces start at $90, bone at $60, mother of pearl and paua shells at $45. Open M-Sa 8am-5pm. Carving workshops Tu, Th, Sa. Book ahead to carve your own. $5 BBH discount.) The other create-your-own option in town, Just Jade Experience Backpackers, 197 Revell St., might not be as fun as it allows less creative control; numerous travelers have reported a less respectful atmosphere. (☎755 7612; www.madkiwi.co.nz. Simple pieces start at $20.) Though Hokitika is known for greenstone, Ruby Rock, 21 Tancred St., sells an equally valuable jewel, known as goodletite. The stone only exists in New Zealand and is a natural fusion of ruby, sapphire and tourmaline. While the stones may be beyond most backpacker’s budgets, browsing is free. (☎755 7448 or 0800 388 703; www.nzrubyrock.com. Open in summer daily 8:30am-5pm; in winter daily 10am-3pm.) Westland Greenstone, 34 Tancred St., has jade pendants, pins, and paperweights for sale from as little as $8. (☎755 8713. Open daily 8am-5pm.) Across the street at House of Wood, 29 Tancred St., carver Quade recycles rimu and kauri salvaged from old buildings into ornamental and practical articles. (☎755 6061. Open daily 9am-5pm; less in winter.) The Hokitika Glass Studio, 28 Tancred St., exhibits glass artistry ranging from a whimsical penguin chess set to dainty flowers. (☎755 7775 or 0800 178 445; www.hokitikaglass.co.nz. Open daily 9am-5pm.)

Sights And Outdoor Activities.  Eco-Rafting Adventures specializes in heli-rafting trips for kayaks or rafts on 22 different rivers, including the Class V Karamea. Knowledgeable guides steer novice paddlers through some of New Zealand’s best rapids. (☎768 4005 or 0508 669 675; www.ecorafting.co.nz. Full day from $135, heli-rafting from $220, DVD an dphotos included. Group discounts available.) The Glowworm Dell, a 30min. round-trip walk on the Seaview Lodge property (see above), displays phosphorescent larvae behind a chain-link fence.

The West Coast Historical Museum, in the Westland i-Site, walks visitors through the history of New Zealand’s gold rushes and “wild west.” (☎755 6898. Open daily 9:30am-5pm. $5, children $1.) National Kiwi Centre, 64 Tancred St., is part aquarium, part zoo, and home to a tuatara, four kiwis, and giant 60 lb., 120-year-old eels. Exhibits are subject to change. (☎755 5251. Open daily 9am-5pm. $13, children $7.) If it crawls, it’s dinner at the phenomenally popular Wildfoods Festival (☎756 9010; www.wildfoods.co.nz), during the second weekend in March. Opossum, kangaroo, and grasshopper are among the tamer entrees. Book accommodations at least six months ahead. Tickets $25.