Long before Phuket and Ko Samui were catapulted into stardom, Hua Hin (“Head Rock”) catered to the Thai upper crust. Following the example of King Rama VI, wealthy Thai families vacationed on this long, clean stretch of sand where local fishermen once dried their squid hauls. Today, Europeans have joined in, and high-rise resorts tower above the waterfront. Paradoxically, Hua Hin is by day a family friendly resort town, while revealing a sprawling red-light district at night. It is also a hip city with a real affinity for jazz: every year in June, there is a huge jazz festival on the beach that attracts big name jazz musicians from around the world. Today, though the fishing village is gone, a few traces of the regal turn-of-the-century getaway remain amidst overpriced beachside pony rides and tourist t-shirt shops.
Hua Hin is small, walkable, and straightforward. Petchkasem Highway runs north-south through town. Lieb Tang Rodfai Road runs parallel to a set of train tracks. Both Lieb Tang Rodfai Rd. and the train tracks mark the western edge of the city, while Petchkasem Hwy. runs right through the center. Damnernkasem Road leads from the train station to the beach and forms the southern boundary of the town proper, although the beach and resort area extends far beyond to the south. To the north running parallel to each other are Dechanuchit Road and Chomsin Road, which lead from the beach to Petchkasem Hwy. Most hotels, restaurants, and bars cluster near Naresdamri Road, which intersects Damnernkasem Rd. close to the beach, passes by the Hilton to the northeast, and then curves to the west, running by the water up to the fishing pier. The tourist office, guesthouses, and many restaurants and bars hand out free maps.
Most budget hotels gather around Naresdamri Rd. and the roads and sois that branch off it. While prices can be similar, quality varies, so shop around. Reservations are recommended during the high season. Accommodations on and around Soi Bintaban Rd. and Poolsuk Rd. are located in the red light district.
While Hua Hin offers some of the region’s best seafood, the local catch is becoming harder to find amid an explosion of Spanish, French, Italian, German, Austrian, Irish, and Mexican cuisine. Even a McDonalds and Starbucks have creeped their way onto the culinary scene of Hua Hin. The seafood restaurants on Naresdamri Rd., just south of the pier, are all excellent, but not budget friendly. Chatchai Market, between Srasong Rd. and Phetkasem Hwy. just north of Dechanuchit Rd., is the best place to sample a local foods, including live seafood, pig’s heads, and a staggering array of colorful produce. It’s particularly lively in the morning, when Chinese doughnuts (10฿ per bag of 10) and sliced fruit (20฿ per small bag) make an excellent breakfast. The night market right next door on Dechanuchit Rd. is a has great pad thai (25฿) and soup (25฿).
The live boxing matches at the intimate Thai Boxing Garden in a small alley off of Poonsuk Rd. are a great source of entertainment; the arena holds no more than 100 people. Fights are on Tuesday and Saturday nights at 9pm. Seats for five fights and a free beer 400-500฿ (prices depend on where you sit). If blows and blood aren’t your style, head to the streets around the intersection of Sarasong Rd. and Damnernkasem Rd. where amateur jazz groups frequently play from 10pm to midnight. At night, the red light district sprawls outwards from its core on Soi Bintaban. Farang looking to avoid prostitutes should head to the popular bars on Naresdamri Rd. in the immediate vicinity of the Hilton.
Hua Hin’s major attraction is the Hua Hin Beach, which rolls along for kilometers in either direction from town. While more scenic beaches can be found farther south, Hua Hin’s is cleanest, with soft white sand. The prettiest stretch of the beach begins just south of the entrance to the Sofitel Hotel. If you are looking to get away from the beach bums and vendors who wander the sand offering massages, food, and pony rides (400-600฿ per 30min.), just keep heading south to the more secluded resort beach areas. For those who wish to enjoy the sights and sounds of the ocean without getting sandy or wet, the fishing pier to the north is a nice place to relax.
The Sofitel Central Hotel, 1.5km south of the pier, offers a rare glimpse of Hua Hin’s graceful past. Originally known as the Railway Hotel, it was built by Prince Purachatra, the former Director General of State Railways. It also had a brief stint in cinema as Phnom Penh’s leading hotel in the film The Killing Fields. The spectacular topiary gardens are not to be missed. Head in through the front gate on Naresdamri Rd., south of Damnernkasem Rd., and head to the left after the front desk. They are pretty strict about only letting guests into the hotel, so you may not make it to the garden but it is worth a shot.
Khao Takieb (Chopstick Hill) and Khao Krailas, both 6km south of Hua Hin, on Petchkasem Hwy, stand in stark contrast of one another. At Khao Takieb, tourists pay exorbitant prices (20฿ per banana) to feed bananas to obese monkeys lolling around the concrete brontosauruses scattered among Buddha images. For a far more tranquil, scenic, and monkey-free experience, skip Khao Takieb and head to neighboring Khao Krailas. There is no English sign; coming from Hua Hin, veer right at the police station where you would veer left for Khao Takieb, then take an immediate right onto the dirt path that leads to the stone staircase up the mountain. Here, the shrines and temples that dot an enchanting hillside are far less crowded. As you reach the top of the initial staircase, head to the right up more stairs. A large Buddha statue and stunning views will greet you at the top.
Suan San Beach, is further south than Khao Krailas, has unbeatable swimming, and a lovely sideview of Khao Takieb. To get there, continue straight after veering right at the fork in the road by the police station. Continue down this road for about 2km and take a left when you can see the ocean. You can also charter a songthaew or tuk-tuk from Hua Hin (round trip 200฿) or Khao Khalias (round trip 80฿)
Khao Sam Roi Yod National Park. Stunning limestone hills (the “Three Hundred Peaks”) rise from surrounding sea and marshland at this beautiful park, which shelters two unspoiled beaches, a limestone cave system, and a diverse waterfowl population that makes for excellent bird-watching. There are some excellent hikes from headquarters for daytrippers, as well as extensive canals for overnight visitors to explore. The jewel of the park complex is the magnificent Tham Phraya Nakhon cave complex, which has huge caverns, stalactites, stalgmites, and a monument commemorationg King Rama VI’s visit. It is 2km uphill from the headquarters. Watch your step, as the steps can get pretty slippery after rain. Insect repellent is a must, as history demonstrates: King Rama IV, who came here in 1868 to observe a solar eclipse that he had predicted, later died of malaria contracted during the visit. A flashlight is handy for exploring the caves. (The entrance to the park is 40km south of Hua Hin. Difficult to reach and explore without a car; take a bus from Hua Hin to Pranburi (1hr., 45฿), then a samlor or motorbike taxi (40 min., 300฿ round trip) to the village of Bang Pu. Taxi drivers hang out near the bus stop. Expect to bargain a little. From Bang Pu, park headquarters are within walking distance, but one must hike 2km over a mountain with spectacular views to get to the beach where the headquarters (☎032 619 078) are located. You can also hire a boat that can hold up to 10 people to take you around the mountain to the beach for 400฿ per hr. Bungalows accommodate up to 20 (1200฿). Reserve in advance. ☎02 579 0529. Park open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm. Free.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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