This vibrant capital of the Caribbean defies classification: ritzy Isla Verde, historic Old San Juan, and working-class Santurce may as well be different worlds, though they sit less than seven miles apart. At 47.5 square miles in size, the city composes just 1.4% of the island’s total land area, but houses an astounding 25% of its population. The diversity of San Juan’s inhabitants—who range from multigenerational sanjuaneros to eager American expats and new Caribbean immigrants—is remarkable; yet, once in the city, many sanjuaneros have been known to go their entire lives without venturing outside the metropolitan area.
For centuries, San Juan has been the focus of attention in Puerto Rico. After Juan Ponce de León moved the island’s capital from Caparra to San Juan in 1521, the Spanish constructed a giant wall around the city, regarding it as the only part of the island worth protecting. For 200 years, San Juan served as a military base, a legacy evident today in the city’s profusion of fortresses. Old San Juan, the site of the old Spanish capital, continues to be perceived as the heart of the city. Overflowing with history, culture, and charm, the old city has enough museums, galleries, and restaurants to satisfy any traveler. It’s true that at times the neighborhood can seem like just another cruise stop, with every business competing to impress the one-day visitors; however, a walk down the quiet streets of Calle Sol and Calle Luna proves that, notwithstanding, the old city continues to thrive.
Old San Juan’s surrounding neighborhoods began developing in the 18th century, when economic reforms jump-started the city’s growth. Working-class sanjuaneros migrated to Puerta de Tierra, while the white minority settled in suburban Santurce. In the early 20th century, the population of the city grew dramatically, producing a sprawling metropolitan area; in the 1950s, tourism hit the city. When the Cuban Revolution narrowed the choice of Caribbean travel destinations, Condado became the new hot spot. Today, Condado has become a center of tourism, Hato Rey has emerged as an international financial powerhouse, and Río Piedras is a hub for university students and vendors. These neighborhoods offer a taste of authentic Puerto Rican life and are San Juan’s best places to rub elbows with locals, visit authentic markets, or check out city beaches.
Flights: Aeropuerto Internacional Luis Muñoz Marín, on the eastern side of San Juan in Isla Verde. Most major US airlines fly into San Juan (see By Plane). Although more expensive than the bus, taxis ...more
San Juan is divided into numerous distinct neighborhoods, each with its own flavor. The neighborhoods normally frequented by visitors are described below. Neighborhood Safety. Although San ...more
Elevated Train: A commuter rail runs from Bayamón to Hato Rey (see All Aboard, ). Tourists may be most interested in its stops in downtown Río Piedras and at the Universidad de Puerto Rico. Customer ...more
Tourist Offices: The Puerto Rico Tourism Company’s San Juan branch operates out of a yellow house called La Casita, at C. Comercio and Pl. de la Dársena, near Pier 3 (☎ 722-1709 or 721-2400, ext ...more
Accommodations in San Juan are quite expensive, with the exception of a few affordable guesthouses. In terms of memorable ambience, safety, and proximity to cultural attractions, Old San Juan can’t ...more
It’s safe to assume that most restaurants have English menus, although some small cafeterías may cater exclusively to Spanish speakers.
Castillo De San Felipe Del Morro (El Morro Fort). Most of San Juan has changed considerably over the last 500 years. However, when you walk up to the walls of El Morro, you are transported back to ...more
Old San Juan is easily the cultural capital of Puerto Rico. In addition to the numerous museums listed below, many streets, especially C. del Cristo and C. San José, are teeming with local art galleries ...more
As a general rule, the beaches get better as you go farther east. Few beaches in the San Juan area have amenities or public bathrooms. Do not swim near Old San Juan—although small sandy beaches do ...more
Ocean Sports, Av. Isla Verde 77 (☎ 723-8513 or 268-2329; www.osdivers.com), in Isla Verde, specializes in advanced diving but also offers water-sports equipment rental and lessons. Snorkeling gear ...more
Gambling is a popular activity in San Juan, but unless you stick to the five-cent slot machines, it can quickly eat up your budget. Almost all the large chain hotels have sizable casinos. For a night ...more
San Juan hosts more festivals—and more outlandish celebrations—than any other city on the island. Most are held in Old San Juan, and the hordes of visitors can create horrendous traffic jams; if ...more
Paseo de Diego, in Río Piedras , is a pedestrian boulevard lined with clothing stores and fast-food restaurants. The clothing stores run the gamut from American chains like Foot Locker to bargain-basement ...more
Check out Lo Nítido at www.lonitido.com in Spanish or Puerto Rico Wow at www.puertoricowow.com in both Spanish and English for more information on the latest nightlife happenings (see Publications) ...more
From Pier 2 in Old San Juan, take the AquaExpreso ferry (10min., every 30min. 6am-10pm; $0.50) to Cataño. To get to the Bacardi factory, walk outside, turn right, and walk to the large green parking ...more
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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