Mexico’s largest Caribbean island, Cozumel, is a diving mecca, drawing more than two million annual visitors to its barrier reef, the second largest in the world. When Cortés stopped in Cozumel on his way to Mexico, he found an island dedicated to the worship of the Maya goddess Ixchel. Cortés suppressed the religion, and gradually the island was abandoned, serving largely as a refuge for pirates. During the Caste Wars, rebels fled here for safety, and economic growth began again in the early 20th century when the island became a hub of the chewing gum trade. Tourism had a foothold as early as the 1930s, but it exploded in 1961 when French diver Jacques Cousteau called attention to the amazing coral formations and colorful marine life of Palancar Reef. These days, the island’s name—Mayan for “land of swallows”—might as well refer to the flocks of cruise ship passengers who crowd the main town to drink beer and peruse items in the shops along the main avenue. Despite the throngs, much of the island, protected by Mexican law, remains undeveloped and ripe for exploration. Miles of empty white sand beaches, Mayan ruins, and crocodile-filled lagoons encourage travelers to look beyond the island’s main city, San Miguel de Cozumel (pop. 80,000).
The island of Cozumel is 18km east of mainland Quintana Roo and 85km south of Isla Mujeres. At 52km long and 14km wide, Cozumel is Mexico’s largest Caribbean island. San Miguel de Cozumel, the main town and home to the island’s ferry docks, sits on the western coast, facing Playa del Carmen. Downtown, avenidas run parallel to the sea and increase by fives. Calles are odd-numbered south of Av. Juárez and even-numbered north of Av. Juárez. The most touristed beaches are also the best for snorkeling and lie south of San Miguel. Beaches on the eastern coast are much less developed; in fact, most of the interior of the island is unpopulated, creating plenty of opportunities for moped exploration. The perimeter road is a spectacular 75km loop along the sea, with several nice views, beach shacks, and swimming areas. Much of the northern part of the island is inaccessible, with barely-paved roads designed solely to damage rental cars.
Since hotels cater primarily to foreign divers with cash to burn, they are generally more expensive in Cozumel than on the mainland and hostels are scarce. Sadly, the extra pesos do not guarantee higher quality. Consider asking to see the room before paying—quality may vary considerably by hotel. Try to grab a room before noon during high season. Free camping, particularly in secluded spots on the island’s east side near Punta Morena, may be the cheapest and most peaceful option, but be sure to check in with police first as camping is not permitted at certain times of year when the sea turtles come ashore.
Like most Caribbean islands, Cozumel serves up plenty of seafood. The high-priced eateries along Melgar and surrounding the Plaza del Sol target the resort-vacationer and cruise ship passenger, so skip them. Moderately priced restaurants lie a few blocks from the centro, and small cafes offering comida casera or cocina económica (homemade meals) are hidden on side streets. The market on Salas between Av. 20 and 25 Sur has fresh meat, fish, and fruit; the loncherías next door are the cheapest. (Open daily 7am-3pm.) The closest supermarket is San Francisco de Assis, at Juárez and Av. 35. (Open daily 7am-10pm.) The Mega, Av. Melgar 799 at C. 11, is larger but a bit farther away. (☎872 3658. Open daily 7am-10:30pm.)
Many visitors make the trek to Cozumel with one goal: to dive around the island’s beautiful coral reefs. Part of the second largest reef system in the world, Cozumel first gained fame when Palancar Reef on the south end of the island made French diver Jacques Cousteau’s list of the top 10 dive sites in the world. Though Hurricane Wilma inflicted serious damage to many of the reefs in 2005, the delicate coral formations are once again beginning to proliferate, and Cozumel still claims some of the best diving in the Caribbean.
The best way to see the reefs is by organizing a diving trip with one of the many dive shops on the island. Look for shops affiliated with ANOAAT (Asociación Nacional de Operadores de Actividades Aquaticas Turísticas) or IANTD (International Association of Nitrox and Technical Divers). Never dive with a company that does not require proof of PADI certification. Dive shops should also provide transportation to and from dive sites, as many of the reefs are inaccessible without a boat.
Snorkeling. Like diving, snorkeling Cozumel’s reefs is on every traveler’s list of things to do when visiting. Snorkeling can be done from shore or through a guided boat tour. Head to Chakanaab Natural Park or the Punta Sur Ecological Reserve. Alternatively, rent gear from one of the dive shops (50-100 pesos), rent a moped, and head to one of the beaches south of town. Playa San Francisco, at km 14, and Playa Palancar, at km 20, both offer superb snorkeling with sights of barracuda, turtles, and coral reefs from close to the shore, as well as small restaurants and shady palapas. (Boat tours can be arranged from any of the stalls lining the Muelle Fiscal. Most tours are around 2hr., are organized in groups of 12, include equipment rental, and cost around 300 pesos per person. Many dive shops also arrange snorkel tours, but often lump them together with diving. Try to get on a boat with only snorkelers to ensure better guides and more snorkeling-friendly reefs.)
San Miguel Beaches. Beachgoers should not be disheartened by the slightly murky waters near San Miguel: calm, clear waters good for snorkeling and swimming can be found south of town. Beaches to the south of San Miguel tend to be more commercial and host beach clubs like Playa Mía, Mr. Sancho’s, and Paradise Beach, all popular with the cruise ship crowds who drop anchor in the harbor daily. Playa Palancar, 20km south of San Miguel, is a better option. The small Palancar Beach Club has a full dive and snorkel center, restaurant, showers, and quiet stretches of white sand. (At km 20 on the Cozumel Carretera Sur. Open daily 9am-5pm. Food purchase required to use the beach. Beer 33 pesos/US$2.50. Cash only.)
Eastern Beaches. The island’s true treasures, kilometers of white foam surf and turquoise waters, lie on the eastern coast. Bonita (km 38), Punta Chiqueros, Punta Morena, and Mezcalitos (at the end of the highway) are rougher but virtually undeveloped, leaving miles of sandy shoreline for those who prefer the company of sea gulls to that of tourists. All east coast beaches are accessible from Cozumel’s main highway. Given the strong currents and undertow in the Chen Río and Playa San Martín areas, swimmers should exercise caution. The road is lined with a series of beach shacks, including the reggae-themed Freedom in Paradise Restaurant and Beach Bar , decorated with old t-shirts. (☎869 8300. Shrimp quesadilla 120 pesos/US$9. Open daily 10am-5:30pm. Cash only.)
Surfing And Kiteb0arding. Though Cozumel is a shrine to underwater activity, those wishing to remain on the surface can also enjoy Cozumel’s surf and sea breezes. Surfing is an increasingly popular sport on the island. Hard-charging boarders head to Mezcalitos for beach breaks, while more adventurous and experienced surfers head to Punta Morena, where shallow coral reefs sometimes cause injury. (Punta Morena Beach and Surf Club. Open M-Sa 9am-5pm.) Kiteboarding also draws crowds from November to April, when winds are the best. At Puro Mar Bikini Shop, 298 Av. 5, Adrian is the island’s official source of kiteboarding information and gear. He also teaches kiteboarding classes. (☎872 4483; www.cozumelkiteboarding.com. 3-4hr. lessons US$350; beginners need about 3 days to become self-sufficient. Open M-Sa 10am-7pm.)
Fishing. Even fishermen have a home in Cozumel. Many boats will take fly- or deep-sea fishermen out in groups of two to four people. Aquarius Travel, 20 Av. Sur 220, between Salas and C. 3 Sur, leads full day fly-fishing tours for 4000 pesos (US$300). Gear rental is not included. (☎869 1096; www.aquariusflatsfishing.com. Open daily 8am-1pm and 5-8pm.)
The Federación de Parques y Museos de Cozumel (☎872 0914; www.cozumelparks.com) operates most of the big attractions on the island.
Chankanaab Natural Park. Popular with families, this natural amusement park, protects a beautiful bay circled by a well-kept botanical garden, museum, dolphin pen (visitors can pay to swim with the near-domesticated mammals), and restaurants. The abundant fish and stunning coral formations in the bay, open to snorkelers and scuba divers, are the real attractions. (Carretera Costera Sur km 9.5. Take Av. Melgar south out of town and look for signs. ☎872 0914. Open daily 7am-5pm. 192 pesos, children under 3 free. Snorkel equipment 132 pesos/US$10. For dolphin reservations ☎998 881 7443; www.dophindiscovery.com). MC/V.)
Punta Sur Ecological Reserve. South of downtown, this reserve wows visitors with boat rides through crocodile-infested lagoons and snorkeling trips along the turtle-populated Colombia reef. Check out the Museum of Navigation and the small ruins of a Mayan tomb. The lighthouse at Punta Celerain presents a spectacular view of the sand dunes on Cozumel’s southern shores. (Carretera Costera Sur km 27. Open daily 8am-4:30pm. 110 pesos. Snorkeling equipment 100 pesos. Lighthouse 66 pesos/US$5.)
Ruins. A former Mayan trading center, Cozumel is sprinkled with dozens of ruins. Unfortunately, none of them have survived the years of hurricanes and the encroaching jungle. The very small El Cedral, the oldest of the ruins on the island, dates back to the ninth century and lies in the town square of the small farming community of El Cedral. (Follow the paved road to the east off the Carretera Sur at km 18 about 2km. Free.)
The only excavated and reconstructed ruins are at San Gervasio, dating from AD 1000-1650. These ruins include the remains of an observatory and several houses, temples, and arches that once made up the most prominent community in Cozumel. (Take Juárez out of town. After 8km, a sign marked “San Gervasio” points the way to a gravel road branching to the left. Follow the road another 6km. ☎871 4431. Open daily 7am-4pm. 77 pesos.)
Museo De La Isla De Cozumel. The main museum on the island is small but worth a visit, if only to escape the stifling heat. Its four themed rooms are full of coral, marine and jungle trivia, and one unlucky stuffed flamingo. The Coral and Reefs room, with colorful exhibits and a wealth of information on Cozumel’s marine treasures, may especially enrich the underwater experiences of prospective snorkelers and scuba divers. (On the waterfront between C. 4 and 6. ☎872 1545. Open M-Sa 9am-5pm, Su 9am-4pm. 36 pesos.)
Hacienda Antigua. An old farmhouse has been restored to look like an hacienda, though it functions mainly as a tourist trap. Brief tour includes an explanation of the distillation process and festive dancing. (Carretera Transversal km 9.8. ☎876 9914; www.cavaantigua.com. Open M-Sa 9am-5pm, Su 10:30am-2pm. 185 pesos (US$14), includes a margarita. MC/V over 264 pesos/US$20.)
Nights in Cozumel tend to be quiet: cruise ship passengers retreat to their cabins and the soon-to-be-divers forsake alcohol in favor of certification-required reading. Next to the endless revelry of Cancún and Playa del Carmen, Cozumel’s nightlife seems a little bush-league. Docked tourists get their jollies at chains like Señor Frogs and Carlos’n Charlie’s.
Fortunately, Cozumel has a host of relaxing and enlightening evening activities to keep you entertained. Live music performances by local salsa and jazz bands take place F-Su in the Plaza del Sol. From 8-10pm, locals and tourists mingle and dance beneath the town gazebo.
If you’re in town in the spring, don’t miss the Fiesta de Santa Cruz, held in late April and early May in the inland farming community of El Cedral, southwest of San Miguel. This religious festival traces its roots 150 years back to the Caste Wars, when Don Casimiro Cárdenas fled with his family from the mainland to the relative peace of Cozumel. A pioneer in the El Cedral area, Casimiro promised that he and his descendants would pray devotedly to the Cross in return for divine protection. The event is marked by dances, feasts, and parades. The island also hosts Carnaval in February. Festivities begin with the coronation of the king and queen of Carnaval (and a series of lesser royalty), and continue with Corona-soaked parades, costumes, and dancing.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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