Cynics who claim that Puerto Rico is too developed for adventure have clearly never heard of Isla Mona. Touted as “the Galápagos of the Caribbean,” Isla Mona offers one of the best excursions into the Caribbean’s untamed wilderness. At just over 13,500 acres, the island is twice as large as Culebra but remains completely uninhabited except for a few researchers. Nature still reigns on this protected reserve, as enormous iguanas, thousands of hermit crabs, and non-native goats and pigs roam the island. Visitors arriving by sea may be surprised by the flatness of the island, which looks like a large pancake sitting on the water. Closer still, it becomes apparent that the edge of the island is actually composed of cavernous limestone cliffs. Strips of bright white sand emerge along the water, which shines an incredible clear blue. While most people stay near the beaches or venture inland on short hikes, a trip to Mona could include exploring the extensive cave network, hiking through the dry scrub forest, diving and snorkeling at the flourishing reefs, or simply lounging on the exquisite beaches. In addition to adventure, Mona offers almost absolute tranquility. The only sounds are the waves crashing on the beach and the quiet rustling of hermit crabs. Most charters head to the island for three or four days; this taste of Mona is just enough time for adventurous visitors to get hooked and begin planning the next trip.
It takes a bit of tenacity to reach Isla Mona. The small airstrip is currently closed, so anyone who doesn’t have a private boat will have to find passage on a Puerto Rican charter. If you have a group of at least six people (or a lot of money) the easiest option is to arrange a trip with one of the operators below. However, the ordinary traveler will have to join a pre-existing group that is still accepting additional passengers; this requires a lot of advance notice and flexible travel dates. Dive shops travel to Mona most regularly, though they don’t always land on the island, in order to avoid DRNA permit hassles. Individuals or small groups attempting to go to Mona should call the charter below to inquire about expeditions planned during the time period when they’re interested in going. If that is unsuccessful, try calling the various dive shops based away from the west coast. All prices listed below are round-trip.
Located 47 mi. west of Puerto Rico and 37 mi. east of the Dominican Republic, Isla Mona sits roughly in the middle of nowhere. Most visitors arrive at Playa Sardinera, home of the main dock, the DRNA offices, and one of Mona’s most beautiful beaches. From Sardinera, marked trails lead to Playa Pájaro (the other camping area), the lighthouse, the airport, and several caves. Little Monito, 3 mi. northwest of Mona, is a 160-acre limestone rock; according to the DRNA, it is officially closed. To get up-to-date information on the conditions of the island, call the DRNA office in San Juan (☎999-2200, ext. 5156).
If you’re looking for the Ritz, head back to San Juan. On Mona, the only option is to camp at the two official beachfront camping areas. Playa Sardinera , on the west coast, is the larger of the two and has two rustic cold-water showers and two flush toilets. For more seclusion, head to Playa Pájaro , on the southeast coast. This beautiful beach has a dock and room for 30 campers but no facilities. Visitors looking for isolation and the “real” Mona tend to head here.
Isla Mona also has no food apart from fresh fish (bring your own pole) and no potable water (consult with tour operators about how much you should bring). Many tour groups provide food and a cook, but otherwise, travelers must be entirely self-sufficient. Furthermore, the DRNA does not allow open-flame fires.
It’s best to decide what activities you’re interested in before heading to Mona in order to procure the necessary supplies. Obviously, divers should invest in a dive trip, but everyone should bring snorkeling equipment. Visitors planning to explore the caves need a good flashlight, and those seeking further adventures should look for a tour group with a knowledgeable guide. The DRNA office in Mayagüez can help to arrange a tour with the biologists living on the island.
Isla Mona has over 5 mi. of beautiful beaches, and the most popular activity may be lounging oceanside. Playa Sardinera is a long white beach with relatively calm water protected by an offshore reef. The pine trees lining the sand drop some needles, and there are occasionally bothersome sand flies, but these two small inconveniences do not tarnish Sardinera’s beauty. This is also the only beach with facilities, including bathrooms, picnic tables, and showers. The other camping area, Playa Pájaro, looks similar but has more palm trees, rocks, and seaweed. Although these are the two most frequented beaches, all of the sand on Mona is a bright white color that far outshines the mainland beaches, and, yes, the water maintains the same incredible blue color all the way around the island. Other beaches include Playa Carabinero, along the airport’s shoreline, Playa Caigo, past the airport near the southernmost tip of the island, and Playa Brava, past the airport on the way to the lighthouse, before Punta Los Ingleses.
Isla Mona has the best diving in Puerto Rico, with visibility regularly reaching 150-180 ft. Reefs nearly surround the island, and many organisms grow underwater on the island’s steep cliffs, creating almost limitless dive opportunities. Because the island is undeveloped and has no erosion damage, the reefs around Isla Mona are remarkably healthy and house species that are hard to find on the main island. Advanced divers head to one of Mona’s most spectacular sights, a sea wall surrounding the island that starts at 50-60 ft., descends to 150 ft., then plunges to the seafloor. Due to potentially strong currents and profound depths, divers should choose their sites carefully according to experience level and dive conditions.
Mona has over 150 acres of limestone caves that vary greatly in terms of size (heights range 3-30 ft.) and accessibility. Only experienced spelunkers should attempt to navigate the caves without a guide. DRNA employees occasionally accompany interested visitors to various caves, but don’t count on this. Some tour groups and boat captains also lead visitors through the caves; check before departing to see if your trip includes any cave exploration. Cueva Negra and Cueva Carita, near Playa Sardinera, are some of the most easily accessible caves. There are more spectacular caves on the southeastern shore, near Playa Pájaro, but these can be difficult to find. Visitors with a guide should not miss Cueva del Agua, which includes a crawl through a tiny passage to reach a pitch-black pool of water.
Over 10 trails wind through Isla Mona, but not all are regularly maintained. The most frequented path is a dirt access road traveling south from Playa Sardinera to: Cueva Negra (33 ft., 2min.); Cueva Carita ( mi., 15min.); the airport ( mi., 20min.); Playa Carabinero (2 mi., 40min.); Playa Caigo (3 mi., 1 hr.); Playa Pájaro (6mi., 3hr.); and the lighthouse (8mi., 4hr.). Another trail, known as the Bajura de los Ceresos, branches off from the access road near Playa Caigo and heads north to the Taíno ball court. On the east coast, the Vereda Cueva del Centro leads from the lighthouse trail to the Cueva del Centro. Before undertaking any hikes, check in with the DRNA to ensure that the trails are still open and let the organization know of your plans. Remember that water is not available on the island and you may require much more water than usual when hiking in the heat.
Isla Mona’s wildlife is fascinating. The small island is home to 700 species of animals, 58 of which are endemic to the island and 75 of which have never been found on the Puerto Rican mainland. By far the most famous is the Mona Iguana, a gargantuan 4 ft. reptile found nowhere else in the world. These stunning creatures frequently emerge from their burrowed nests to observe new campers. Visitors will also be greeted by piles of crawling hermit crabs, crustaceans that migrate to the sea during early August to breed. The only amphibian on Mona is the unique Mona coquí, which has a song slightly different from its Puerto Rican relative. Unlike the mainland, Mona also has a significant number of creepy-crawlies. Watch out for the 52 species of spiders and the three species of scorpions. Fortunately, the 3 ft. Isla Mona boa, yet another endemic species, generally only comes out at night and is not harmful to humans. This curious creature is one of the only snakes that gives birth to developed offspring and does not lay eggs. Birdwatchers will enjoy looking for the 100 species of birds found on Mona. Only two, the yellow-shouldered blackbird and the ground dove, are native to the island. The goats and pigs that were left behind after earlier attempts to farm the island roam freely as wild animals. Every year, the two animals are hunted from December to April, Monday through Thursday, closing the island to camping. There are over 270 species of fish around Mona, including silky sharks, nurse sharks, barracudas, flying fish, and moray eels. Dolphins and humpback whales populate the waters as well. From May to October the endangered hawksbill turtle nests on the shores of Mona. The loggerhead sea turtle also swims in Mona waters; if you see a turtle, leave it alone, since human interference is one significant cause of the species’s decline.
Mona’s flora cannot match the diversity of its fauna, but the island does contain four endemic plant species. The vegetation is a combination of eastern Hispaniola’s and southwestern Puerto Rico’s, and most of the island consists of dry plateau forest filled with white cedar, cactus, and poisonwood. Most of the coastal forest consists of princewood and oysterwood, with a few acres of mangroves.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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