Vieques Overview

The first thing that comes to mind when one thinks of Vieques is the US Navy base on the island, which was protested vocally by locals. As of May 2003, however, the Navy left Vieques, leaving viequenses with the prize that they had long been fighting for: their beautiful island. Once again, the only sounds heard on the island are the chirps of coquís and the crows of roosters—a marked contrast to the recent past, when it was common to hear bombs falling less than 10 mi. away. But even Vieques’s tumultuous history is not as remarkable as the island’s natural beauty. Often referred to as La Isla Nena (the little girl island), Vieques is covered with lush tropical forests and surrounded by crystalline seas that rival any in the Caribbean. The entire island feels a bit untamed—palm trees are scattered amidst gnarled jungle vegetation, bumpy dirt roads crisscross the land, and herds of wild horses wander through the forest as though they owned it. On the south coast, the island has two bioluminescent bays that are among the best in the world.

With fewer than 10,000 residents, Vieques is just large enough to contain two small settlements. Isabel II (Isabel Segunda), the largest city, feels like any small Puerto Rican town, complete with a plaza, a busy main strip, and, when the ferry arrives, a bit of traffic congestion. The ferry terminal, the fort, most local services, and several of the best restaurants are located in Isabel II. Esperanza, on the south side of the island, is more tourist-oriented and has a large population of US expats. This primarily residential neighborhood becomes increasingly commercialized as you head toward the water. The street running parallel to the sea, called Calle Flamboyán, the Malecón, or simply “the strip,” is almost completely lined with guesthouses, restaurants, gift shops, tour operators, and English speakers.

With the Navy gone, the island must figure out how to deal with high unemployment rates, a budding tourism industry, and the allocation of hundreds of acres of valuable land. Locals have set up nonprofit organizations to tackle these issues and to protect the island for future generations. But viequenses know that even if the island’s future is a bit unsure, in many respects, they live in a paradise.

Inter-Island Transportation

• Flights: Aeropuerto Antonio Rivera Rodríguez (☎741-8358 or 741-0415), on Rte. 200, may be the most attractive airport in Puerto Rico. The following airlines sell tickets over the phone or at their airport desks. Reserve at least 24hr. in advance, and even farther ahead during high season and holidays. A público waiting on Rte. 200 when flights come in will take visitors anywhere on the island (see Públicos). Open 24hr.
• • Air Sunshine (☎741-7900, toll-free 888-879-8900; www.airsunshine.com) flies to San Juan International (25min.; 4 per day; $80, round-trip $160). Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-5pm. AmEx/MC/V.
  • Isla Nena (☎741-1505, toll-free 877-812-5144) Offers 4-12 flights per day to Culebra (10min.; $35, round-trip $70), Fajardo (10min.; $25, round-trip $50), and San Juan International (35min.; $92, round-trip $172). Open daily 8am-5pm. MC/V.
  • M&N Aviation (☎741-3911, toll-free 877-622-5566) flies to: San Juan Isla Grande (18min.; daily 7pm; $64, round-trip $118) and San Juan International (20min.; daily 7pm; $86, round-trip $161). Open daily 8am-7pm. AmEx/MC/V.
  • Vieques Air Link (}in airport 741-8211, in office 741-8331 or 741-0470, toll-free 888-901-9247) flies to: Fajardo (10min.; on demand; $23, round-trip $42); San Juan International (30min.; 3 per day; $85, round-trip $167); San Juan Isla Grande (30min.; 3-4 per day; $48, round-trip $92); St. Croix, USVI (30min.; 2 per day; $70, round-trip $145). AmEx/MC/V. Or stop by their reservations office, C. Antonio M. Mellado 358. Open M-Sa 8am-noon, 1pm-5:30pm. Airport Office open daily 6am-6:30pm.
• Ferries: Puerto Rican Port Authority (☎1-800-981-2005, in Fajardo 863-0705, 863-0852, or 860-2005) operates ferries between Vieques and Fajardo. In addition to the routes below, a ferry runs between Vieques and Culebra (W only; leaves Vieques 7:30am and 2:30pm, returns from Culebra 9am and 3:30pm; round-trip $4). No reservations are accepted for passengers, so show up at least 1hr. in advance. Reservations are required to take a car onboard and should be made several months in advance to snag one of the few spots (by phone M-F 8am-11am, 1pm-3pm). Ticket window open daily 7:30am-11:30am, 12:30-4pm. MC/V.

Orientation

Lying 13 mi. east of the mainland and measuring 21 mi. by 3 mi., Vieques looks like a miniature, elongated version of Puerto Rico. Almost the entire eastern half and the westernmost quarter of the island’s former US Navy lands are controlled by the US Fish and Wildlife Service. Most of the region is open to the public as a natural reserve, although certain areas containing unexploded bombs or other hazardous materials remain closed (these areas are clearly marked and cordoned off). Most people arrive in Isabel II, the island’s largest town and home of the ferry dock. The dock is also the home base for públicos, which congregate there by the dozen when a ferry is scheduled to arrive. If you are driving your own car and wish to leave Isabel II, take a right at the ferry dock, then take a left on C. Benítez Guzmán, then a right just past the plaza to reach Rte. 200 and leave town. The fastest route between Isabel II and Esperanza is Rte. 997; however, for a much more scenic route, drive west on Rte. 200, then south along Rte. 995, one of the most beautiful roads on the island. Turning right on Rte. 201 and left onto Rte. 996 will lead you straight into Esperanza. Driving eastward on Rte. 996, the ocean will come into view on your right. The road runs alongside the water as you approach the Malecón boardwalk and what expats call “the strip,” home to the town’s restaurants and hotels.

Local Transportation

Unless you plan to stick exclusively to one of the towns, it is very time-consuming and almost impossible to get around Vieques without a car. Públicos run between Isabel II and Esperanza but rarely head to any beaches except Sun Bay, and there may be as long as a 1hr. wait, even if you call ahead.

• Públicos: Shared vans travel the island , usually circulating between the airport, the ferry terminal in Isabel II, and the strip in Esperanza. If you flag down a público, it will usually take you anywhere on the island. Passengers traveling alone may have to pay the fare of 3 passengers. When ferries arrive, all of the operating públicos will be at the dock, and about 30min. later most will end up on the strip in Esperanza; plan your schedule accordingly. Transport anywhere on the major roads should cost about $3 per person; transport to the beaches on former Navy lands runs $5 or more; extra luggage costs $0.50 per item. Keep in mind, especially if you want to go to the more remote beaches, that públicos may not be around to pick you up, so have some numbers handy and be prepared to wait. Público drivers include: Ana (☎741-2318, cell 313-0599), Ángel (☎741-1370, cell 484-7896), Eric (☎741-0448), Fernando (cell ☎605-4100), Henry (☎741-8621, cell 380-1866), Ismael (☎741-0095), Jorge (☎741-2116), Nito & Abby (☎741-4469), and Pepe Car Service (☎741-3392).
• Car Rental: Several small companies rent Jeeps and SUVs, but there are no major chains. Make reservations far in advance during high season (Dec.-May) as it’s not uncommon for every car on the island to be booked. Even during low season, call a few days ahead. Most of the former Navy roads are unpaved, extremely bumpy, and rife with water-filled potholes; these should not be attempted without 4WD. Even the island’s paved roads can be challenging, as many are only 1 lane wide but have traffic going in both directions. There are two gas stations around Rte. 200 Km 1.5.
• • Island Car Rental, Rte. 201 Km 1.1 (☎741-1666). SUVs $55-70 per day; minivans $70. Insurance $12 per day. $5 per day discount for 7 or more days. Driver’s license required. 25+. Open daily 8am-noon and 1-5pm. AmEx/MC/V.
  • Martineau Car Rental, Rte. 200 Km 3.4 (☎741-0087 or 636-7071; www.martineaucarrental.com), across from the Wyndham resort. Jeeps $65-75 per day. Insurance $20 per day. Under-25 surcharge $5 per day. Pickup and dropoff available. Credit card required. Open daily 8am-6pm. AmEx/MC/V.
  • Maritza’s Car Rental, Rte. 201 Km 1 (☎741-0078). Rents Jeeps for $45-65 per day. Insurance $12 per day. 25+. Dropoff service. Open daily 8am-5pm. AmEx/MC/V.
  • Acevedo’s Car Rental, Rte. 201 Km 0.4 (☎741-4380), in the Cabañas Playa Grande complex. Rents 3 types of Jeeps ($45-60) and SUVs ($55-65). 26+. Dropoff service. Open M-Sa 9:30am-6pm, Su 10am-noon. AmEx/MC/V.
  • Acacia Car Rental (☎741-1856). The owners of Acacia Apartments also rent 4 Jeeps (in winter $65 per day, in summer $55). 3 days min. Driver’s license required. 25+. Rentals come with an orientation. Pickup and dropoff service. MC/V.
• Bike Rental: La Dulce Vida (☎970-222-1007, www.bikevieques.com), rents 15- to 27-speed mountain bikes ($25 per day including helmet, lock, and delivery). The owner leads -day bike tours around the western end of the island ($75 per person including bike, gear, snacks and water; min. 2 people, max. 4). New 2-day bike/kayak/snorkel tours $75-120 per person. Reservations required. MC/V.

Practical Information

Unless otherwise stated, all services are located in Isabel II.

• Tourist Office: Puerto Rico Tourism Company, C. Carlos LeBrun 449 (☎741-0800), on the corner of the plaza in Casa Alcaldía. Helpful staff offers maps, magazines, and brochures. Open daily 8am-4:30pm. Island tourism websites external to the government-endorsed tourism office include www.viequesvisitor.com, www.vieques-island.com and www.isla-vieques.com.
• Bank: Banco Popular, C. Muñoz Rivera 115 (☎741-2071). ATM. Open M-F 8am-3pm.
• Laundromat: Familia Ríos, C. Benítez Castaño 1 (☎374-6823), across from Al’s Mar Azul bar. Washers $3-5, dryers $1 per 10min. Detergent included. Wash-and-fold $2 per lb.; available by 4pm if in by 10am. Change unnecessary; uses declining-balance cards. Open M and Th-Sa 10am-7pm. Cash only.
• Police: Rte. 200 Km 0.2 (☎741-2020 or 741-2121), at Rte. 997. Open 24hr.
• Pharmacy: Isla Nena Pharmacy (☎741-1906), on C. Muñoz Rivera. Open M-Sa 8am-6pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• Hospital: Centro de Salud Familiar, Rte. 997 Km 0.4 (☎741-0392, emergency room 741-2151). Next to the fire station. Clinic open M-F 7am-3pm. Emergency room open 24hr.
• Internet Access: Museo de Esperanza, C. Flamboyán 138 (☎741-8850), Esperanza, allows travelers to use their own computers ($3 per 30min.). Open Tu-Su 11am-4pm.
• Post Office: C. Muñoz Rivera 97 (☎741-3891). General Delivery available. Open M-F 8am-4:30pm, Sa 8am-noon. Postal Code: 00765.

Accommodations And Camping

Vieques has excellent accommodations for travelers of all budgets. If you want to be in the middle of local action, stay in Isabel II; if you want to join the expat crowd and be close to the beaches, try Esperanza. If you just want to get away from it all, try one of the accommodations in the middle of the island, but you will need a car. Many hotels do not allow children; generally, the more expensive an accommodation is, the less likely it is to allow children.

Realtors

The realtors below, along with several others, offer short-term vacation rentals around the island. Prices are for weekly rentals and are taxed at the rate of 7%.

• Rainbow Realty, C. Flamboyán 278 (}/fax 741-4312; www.enchanted-isle.com/rainbow), in Esperanza near La Tienda Verde. Most rentals have washer and dryer, some have pool and A/C. Min. stay 1 week. Nov. 15-May 15 $650-4000; May 15-Nov. 15 $450-3000. Open in winter M-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-2pm; in summer M-Sa 10am-4pm, Su 10am-2pm. MC/V with 5% surcharge; personal checks preferred.
• Crow’s Nest Realty, Rte. 201 Km 1.6 (☎741-0033 or 1-888-484-7837; www.crowsnestvieques.com). Min. stay 1 week. Rentals $800-3,500. AmEx/MC/V.
• Connections Real Estate, C. Muñoz Rivera 117 (☎741-0023 or 741-0366; www.viequesrealtor.com), in Isabel II. Houses vary. Min. stay 1 week in high season, 3 nights during low season. 50% deposit. $1300-2500 per week. Open Nov.-May M-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su by appointment; June-Oct. W-Th 10am-5pm, F-Su by appointment. Credit card deposit required. MC/V.

Isabel Ii

• Casa de Amistad, C. Casa Benítez Castaño 27 (☎741-3758; www.casadeamistad.com), in the heart of Isabel II. Helpful and enthusiastic owners have created an affordable, attractive guesthouse. 7 artistically decorated rooms with A/C and wicker furniture. Rooftop deck. Tiny pool. Common area with TV. Kitchen and dining room. Snorkel equipment ($10), Internet ($3 per 30min.), and bar. Free use of coolers and beach towels. Doubles $80; quads $80-90. MC/V.
• Casa La Lanchita, North Shore Rd. 374 (☎741-8449 or 774-4717, www.viequeslalanchita.com), north on Plinio Peterson from the ferry docks to North Shore Rd. running northeast. This impressive and sparkling white mansion juts out over the Bravos de Boston coast, offering backyard beach and snorkeling access. Rooms of resort quality still have a personal, beach cottage feel. All suites face the ocean and have balcony, fully equipped kitchen, A/C, and cable TV. Books, chairs, and towels to borrow. Doubles $95-140. Extra person $10. Min. stay 4 nights in high season. MC/V.
• Hotel Vieques Ocean View, C. Plinio Peterson 571 (☎741-3696). Conveniently located in town. Standard budget hotel—except for the balconies and pool that look out over the ocean. All rooms have A/C and TV; most have fridge. Aug. 15-May 15 doubles $78; quads $118; 6-person rooms $144; 8-person rooms $172. May 16-Aug. 14 $59/99/131/144.
• El Seagate (☎741-4661), on the hill above the fort. With the fort’s entrance at your back, take the left fork and continue to bear left up the hill; the house will be on your right. The grounds look overgrown in some areas, but rooms are well decorated and have all of the amenities you could need at prices that are too good to be true. All rooms have ceiling fan; some have a full kitchen or balcony. Pets welcome. Large book exchange. Pool. Free Wi-Fi. Doubles $65-90; quads $85. AmEx/MC/V.
• Tropical Guest House, C. Apolonia Gittings 41 (☎741-2449; www.viequestropicalguesthouse.com). Leaving Isabel II on Rte. 200, take the first left after El Patio restaurant, then take the left fork and then the right fork; the guesthouse is on your left. Away from town, but with simple, bright rooms and a friendly staff. All rooms have private bath, A/C and TV. Singles and doubles $60; triples $65; 4- to 6-person suites with kitchen $85-105. Tax included. MC/V.

Esperanza

• Winds Guest House, C. Flamboyán 107 (☎741-8666; www.enchanted-isle.com/tradewinds). Cozy guesthouse and great beachfront location on the Malecón make this a good value. Colorful rooms with bright, Caribbean-themed wall murals. Some rooms share an ocean-view patio. All rooms have fridges, reading lights, and ceiling fans. Free use of beach towels. Check-out 11am. Check-in 2pm. Singles $60-70; doubles $70-80. Extra person $15. AmEx/MC/V.
• Bananas Guest House, C. Flamboyán 142 (☎741-8700; www.bananasguesthouse.com). An elegant wood cabin with accommodations above a lively restaurant and bar, just across the street from the beach. Friendly backpacker atmosphere. 7 rooms all have private bath and mini-fridge. Check-in 1pm. Check-out 11am. Open Nov.-May; call ahead. Doubles $65, with A/C and screened porch $80-$90. Extra person $15. MC/V.
• Pablo’s Guest House, C. Piños 217 (☎741-8917). The cheapest option on the island, but a 7-10min. walk from the fun of the strip. Incredibly clean rooms are located on the 2nd fl. of Pablo’s home. 4 identical rooms each contain a full and a twin bed. All rooms include A/C, hot water, and fridge. Triples $70 1st night, $60 thereafter. Cash only.
• Ted’s Guest House, C. Húcar 103 (☎741-2225; www.vieques-island.com/rentals/ted), big coral-and-blue house block from the strip. Though they are located on the 2nd fl. of the owner’s home, these 3 clean apartments look professional. All come with a full kitchen, A/C, TV, and a kitchen table. Common balcony. Min. stay 2 nights. Doubles $80; 2-bedroom quads $125; per week $525/800. Cash only.
• Amapola Guest House, C. Flamboyán 144 (☎741-1382; www.amapolainn.com). Enter through the corridor between Bananas and Bilí, on the strip. Amapola can best be described as colorful, from the bold orange exterior to the colorful bedspreads and decorative details in each room. Excellent location. All rooms have A/C. Free morning coffee. Suites come with a well-equipped kitchen and sleep 4-6 people. Doubles $75-95; quads $125. AmEx/MC/V.
• Casa Alta Vista, C. Flamboyán 297 (☎741-3296; www.casaaltavista.net), above a small grocery store in a large white and terra-cotta house just west of Esperanza’s strip. Casa Alta Vista is a great deal for groups, with rooms fitting up to 5 people. Ocean views from a rooftop patio and hammocks on common balcony. All rooms have A/C and fridge. Doubles $75; quads $85; quints $95. AmEx/MC/V.

Around Vieques

• La Finca Caribe, Rte. 995 Km 2.2 (☎741-0495; www.lafinca.com). If you enjoyed summer camp as a kid, try this rustic but clean and colorful hotel on a farm in the center of Vieques. The owners strive for tranquility and simplicity; rooms share bathrooms and guests use private outdoor solar-heated showers. All rooms have a loft bed. Friendly conversation ensues in the common kitchen, lounge, and patio. Pool. Book exchange. Doubles mid-Nov. to mid-May $85; mid-May to mid-Nov. $65. 2 large cabins sleep 1-4 $1050/795 and 1-3 $735/550 per week. AmEx/MC/V with 4% surcharge.
• Abreeze, Rte. 997 Km 1.6 (☎741-1856; www.abreezeapartments.com). The owners of Acacia Car Rental rent out 2 apartments in their beautiful yellow house. With 3 acres of land on the top of a hill with nearly panoramic views, this house feels like a Caribbean country estate. Rooms include kitchen, living room, private terrace, and free Internet. All guests can use pool, grill, beach towels and chairs, coolers, washer, and dryer. Min. stay 1 week. 2-person studio Nov.-May $1150 per week; June-Oct. $850. 4-person apartment $1350/1050. MC/V.
• The Crow’s Nest, Rte. 201 Km 1 (☎741-0033 or 741-0993, toll free 1-888-843-7837; www.crowsnestvieques.com). On 5 acres of lush grounds just off busy Rte. 201, this hotel looks like an expensive resort from the outside, with a pool, poolside restaurant, and newly painted yellow-and-blue exterior. Inside, the rooms are very large but aging a bit. A/C, satellite TV, phone, and balcony. Complimentary coolers, umbrellas, beach chairs, boogie boards, and towels. Most with full kitchen. Continental breakfast included. Use the free Wi-Fi or pay for Internet access on 1 computer ($4 per 20min). Reception 8am-7pm. Doubles Nov. 16-Apr. $136; May-Dec. 19 $104. Extra person $17. No pets or children under 12. Tax included. AmEx/MC/V.
• Cabañas Playa Grande, Rte. 201 Km 1 (☎741-4380). Playa Grande provides well-equipped, clean apartments with A/C, TV, and fully stocked kitchen. All rooms sleep up to 5 people, which makes this a very good deal, though the grounds are less than inspiring. 1 - to 2-person apartments $80, 4- to 5-person $100. AmEx/MC/V.
• Balneario Sun Bay (☎741-8198), on Rte. 997, mi. east of Esperanza, is essentially a large field next to the beach. Nothing compares with falling asleep to the sound of waves crashing on the shore 20 ft. from your tent. Relatively popular; crowded during holidays. Facilities include trash cans, picnic tables, fire pits, concrete grills, surprisingly nice bathrooms, showers, and a water fountain. The only downside is that the area has virtually no shade. Parking $2 if you enter Tu-Su 8:30am-6pm. $10 per tent.

The Sky’S The Limit

Vieques has several beautiful high-end guesthouses spread throughout the island.

• Hix Island House, Rte. 995 Km 1.2 (☎741-2302; www.hixislandhouse.com). Hix Island House may be the most unique accommodation in Puerto Rico. 3 concrete buildings house breezy, luxurious suites that manage to be private in spite of the extreme open-concept design—some rooms have only 3 walls! Elegant and funky geometric structures include fully stocked kitchen with complimentary breakfast, homemade bread, semi-outdoor shower, and private terrace. Concrete pool fits ingeniously into the landscape. Free Wi-Fi. Doubles Nov. 20-Apr. 30 $235-295, min. stay 3 nights.; May 1-Nov. 19 $185-245, min. stay 2 nights. No children under 13. AmEx/MC/V.
• Hacienda Tamarindo, Rte. 996 Km 4.5 (☎741-8525; fax 741-3215; www.haciendatamarindo.com). Picture-perfect views and beautiful rooms make this one of Vieques’s best small accommodations. Each room is adorned with themed murals and trinkets. Common library and lounge. Big pool. A/C and ceiling fans. American breakfast included. Reception 8am-6pm. Check-out 8:30-11am. Nov. 16-May 4 singles $165-215; doubles $175-285; 4-person apartment with kitchen $325. May 5-Nov. 15 $125-175/135-225/$275. Extra person $35. 10% service charge. No children under 8. AmEx/D/MC/V.
• Great Escape Bed & Breakfast Inn (☎741-2927; www.enchanted-isle.com/greatescape), on Rte. 201 between Rte. 995 and Rte. 996. Follow signs to the side road, then drive up it and turn right onto the dirt road after the pink concrete fence. Located on 3.8 acres of land in farm country, the Great Escape offers fresh air, tranquility, and great mountain views. The 10 rooms are nice, with high ceilings, fans, wrought-iron beds and private balconies. Pool. Continental breakfast included. Reserve well in advance. July-Oct. doubles $125; Nov.-July $115. Apartments $200-400. Extra person $25. Tax included. MC/V.

Food

Keep your ATM card handy; with the food prices on Vieques as high as they are, you may be making frequent withdrawals. Several American expats have opened delicious but expensive restaurants. However, it is easy to find high-quality, filling eats for less money at one of the comida criolla joints in Isabel II. Groceries can be found at Super Descuentos Morales, Rte. 200 Km 1.3 (☎741-6701. Open M-Sa 6:30am-7pm, Su 6:30am-noon. MC/V.) and Colmado El Molino, C. Antonio G. Mellado 342 (☎741-0015. Open M-Sa 7am-11pm, Su 10am-11pm. AmEx/MC/V.) in Isabel II. In Esperanza, try La Tienda Verde, C. Robles 273, Rte. 996 (☎741-8711. Open daily 9am-9pm. MC/V.) or the centrally located Colmado Lydia on C. Almendro in Esperanza. (☎741-8678. Open M-Sa 7:30am-6pm, Su 7:30am-noon. MC/V.)

Isabel Ii

• Shaunaa’s Restaurant (☎741-1434), on C. Antonio Mellado. Vieques’s best cafetería. Extremely popular with locals throughout the week; crowded, so it’ll be tough to find a seat inside. A budget traveler’s dream. Huge lunch platters with a choice of meat, rice, plantains, and beans $6. Open M-F 10:30am-2pm. MC/V.
• Scoops Ice Cream & Pizzeria, C. Benítez Guzmán 53 (☎741-5555). Vieques’s only ice cream parlor offers a tasty variety of flavors (1 scoop $3, 2 scoops $4.50). However, Scoops is possibly more famous among locals for its hot food: brick-oven pizza (big slice $2, full pizza $25-27) and hot gourmet sandwiches ($5-6). Down the short driveway on the left, club music spices up simple picnic table seating. Open daily 11am-11pm. MC/V.
• Panadería y Repostería Lydia (☎741-8679), at C. Plinio Peterson and Benítez Guzmán. No seating area inside, but there are 2 plastic tables out front. A great bargain. Simple sandwiches on delicious, freshly baked bread ($1.50-$2.50). Huge pastries $0.50-1, including the Puerto Rican pineapple-and-cheese danish. 1lb. fresh bread $1.25. Pastries served M-F. Open M-F 5am-2pm, Sa 5am-noon. Cash only.
• Roy’s Coffee Lounge (☎741-0685), on C. Antonio G. Mellado, in the pink building. Bright paintings, masks, shells and funky lights adorn this cafe. Out back, wicker chairs and tables invite customers to lounge with Roy’s iced coffee ($4.50) or a bagel ($1.75), or to borrow a book from the lounge’s collection. Free Wi-Fi 1hr. max. Basic brews $1.75-4. Frozen coffee or fruit drinks $4.50. Sandwiches and wraps $5.50. Pastries $1.75-3.50. Open M-F 8am-2pm, Sa-Su 8am-noon. MC/V.
• El Patio Bar and Restaurant, C. Antonio G. Mellado 340 #01 (☎741-6381). At El Patio, you’ll find a small, bright terrace and cheery yellow room with a daily-changing menu. Seafood, chicken, and meat entrees $6-16. Beer $1-2. Mixed drinks $2-3. Open M-F 6:30am-5pm, Sa 8am-4pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• La Taverna Española (☎741-1175), at the corner of C. Carlos LeBrun and C. Benítez Castaño. The decor is bland and the food overpriced at this Spanish restaurant, but the reason to come is the delicious sangria (glass $3, pitcher $12). Entrees $15-25. Open M-Sa 5-10pm. MC/V.
• Richard’s Cafe (☎741-5242), on C. Antonio G. Mellado, at the intersection of Rte. 997 and Rte. 200. Popular with families. Standard Puerto Rican cuisine ($7-30) such as pastelillo turnovers ($3-9) and big burgers ($6-7). Mofongo $14-19. Open daily 11am-11pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• Wai Nam Seafood Restaurant, C. Plinio Peterson 571 (☎741-0622). Like any good Puerto Rico town, Isabel II must have the requisite Chinese/seafood/fried chicken restaurant, where all the entrees are served with french fries. However, this may be the only one with a great sea view. Chinese entrees $3-11. Open M-Th and Su 10am-9pm, F-Sa 10am-10pm. MC/V.

Esperanza

• Duffy’s, C. Flamboyán 140 (☎741-7600). Johnny Cash and the Beatles greet guests from posters on the wall in this cool, open-air restaurant with bar island. All day long, locals and tourists eat large burgers ($10), sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Duffy piled high with salami and other meats ($12) and seafood salads ($13). Cool off with a Medalla ($2), margarita, or parcharita ($6). Open Tu-Su 11am-11pm. Bar open until midnight. MC/V.
• Bananas, C. Flamboyán 142 (☎741-8700), at the guesthouse of the same name. A lively bar with TV attracts the crowds. lb. burgers, sandwiches, and salads ($6-10) are a good deal. Beer $2. Frozen drinks $6-7. Occasional live music. M after 5pm Medalla $1. Restaurant open daily 11am-9:30pm. Bar open M-Th and Su until 1am, F-Sa until 2am. MC/V.
• La Dulce Esperanza (☎741-0085), on C. Almendro. Located just off the strip, but feels worlds away. One of the few affordable yet appetizing restaurants in Esperanza. Serves breakfast subs (6 in. $2-3; 12 in. $4-5.50), dinner pizza (slice $2-2.75; full pizza $11-15), calzones ($7-9), and pastries ($1) all day long. Take your food to go and catch a baseball game down the street. Open daily 7-11am and 5-9pm. Cash only.
• Trade Winds, C. Flamboyán 107 (☎741-8666). Soft music plays while you sit in a big wooden chair, gaze out over the water, and dine on some of the best food on the strip. Resort-type food with an island twist: chicken, bacon, and veggie wrap with passion fruit sauce $8.50. Breakfast $4.50-7. Lunch $6-14. Dinner $13-28. Open M and W-Su 8am-2pm and 6-9:30pm, Tu 6-9:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• Restaurante Bilí, C. Flamboyán 144 (☎741-1382). The friendly staff at Bilí invite passersby to lounge in bright orange chairs while enjoying upscale Puerto Rican cuisine in an airy sitting area. Delicacies include the mahi mahi with black bean papaya chutney ($20). Appetizers $8-12. Entrees $18-39. Open daily 10am-10pm. AmEx/MC/V.

Sights

Unlike Culebra, Vieques does have a fair share of cultural sights. It’s worth an afternoon of missed beach time to check out the island’s major museums.

Fuerte De Conde De Mirasol. Vieques’s most impressive sight was constructed between 1845 and 1855 as the last Spanish fort in the New World. Over the years it housed militia and served as a prison—most inmates were Puerto Rican separatists—and later as a United States seismographic station. In 1989 the Puerto Rican Institute of Culture restored the fort and installed a museum inside. The majority of the museum is devoted to standard displays of pre-Hispanic archaeological artifacts, histories of various European groups on Vieques, and tools used by early viequenses. In addition, the museum hosts exhibits of local and visiting artists, many of which focus on the US Navy presence. The criticism of the US often voiced in the Fuerte exhibitions is complicated by the fact that the US government partially funds the museum. The fort merits a visit for both its architecture and its well-thought-out displays. Although almost all of the signs are in Spanish only, bilingual tour guides are happy to show visitors around. (Rte. 989 Km 0.5. Follow signs to the Fuerte neighborhood. ☎741-1717; www.icp.gobierno.pr. Open W-Su 8:30am-4:20pm. $3, ages 12 and under and over 60 free.)

Faro Punta Mulas. From the ferry, the view of the Punta Mulas lighthouse crowning the hill is quite stunning. From the lighthouse itself, it is no less so: the 360-degree views—the ocean on one side and mountains on the other, and Culebra in the distance—are about as good as it gets. The lighthouse was built by the Spaniards in 1895-96, but was partially destroyed when the Americans attacked; it was finally restored in 1992. (On Calle A, uphill from the ferry dock. Closed for tours indefinitely.)

Museo De Esperanza. The Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust has established a small museum in Esperanza to display artifacts and educate the public about their work. The front area focuses primarily on Taíno artifacts recovered from the island (600BC-AD1492), artifacts from the era of Spanish conquest, and histories of the production and export of tobacco and coffee. Unfortunately, the exhibits are displayed in old, dark cases. A popular draw to the museum is the small aquarium in the back. The Trust collects animals from the waters surrounding Vieques then displays them in tanks for a few weeks before returning them to the sea and catching new ones. The workers sometimes even let visitors hold and touch the creatures. Previous displays have included starfish, sea urchins, lobsters, and frog fish, which are camouflaged to look like sponges. (C. Flamboyán 138, Esperanza. ☎741-8850 or 741-2844; www.vcht.com. Also has Internet for $3 per 30min. and a book exchange. Open Tu-Su 11am-4pm. Free.)

Shopping

Vieques does not share Culebra’s wealth of yuppie boutiques, but there are a few good places to get some local art or a classy souvenir.

• Diva’s Closet, C. Flamboyán 134 (☎741-7595; divasclosetpr@aol.com). This colorful boutique caters mostly to a hipster under-30 crowd. Mostly women’s clothing, but some men’s items. Also carries bathing suits, flip-flops, beach jewelry, and lotions. Open daily 10am-5pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• Vieques Flowers & Gifts..Too!, C. Flamboyán 134 (☎741-4197), Esperanza. Manages to stuff a full flower shop and an array of locally made handicrafts into its small space. A great destination for Vieques souvenirs. Open daily 10am-4pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• Kim’s Cabin, C. Flamboyán 136 (☎741-3145), Esperanza. Sells men’s and women’s clothing mostly for older adults, as well as local art and high-quality jewelry. Open daily 9am-5pm. MC/V.

Beaches

Spectacular beaches ring the island of Vieques. The southern coast tends to be slightly more appealing than the north, but really, who’s complaining? Major spots are listed below, but the best strategy is to take a map of the dirt roads and just start driving. Make sure you rent a truck or an SUV, as many roads are bumpy and require four-wheel drive. On the former Navy lands, especially on the eastern half of the island, just about any dirt road will take you to your own tiny private beach, so even if you make a wrong turn, you should still end up somewhere special.

Balneario Sun Bay. At Vieques’s only public beach, medium-sized waves of crystal clear water hit an enormous crescent of white sand lined with palm trees. On weekday mornings, you can have this sumptuous stretch of sand to yourself, although it is Vieques’s most popular beach on weekends and holidays. Snorkelers may want to head to Navío, as the water is clearer there. Like most public balnearios, Sun Bay has picnic tables, fire pits, a huge parking area, a drinking fountain, trash cans, lifeguards, bathrooms, and a camping area. (On Rte. 997, mi. east of Esperanza. ☎741-8198. Parking $2; minivans $3. Fee covers Balneario Sun Bay, Playa Media Luna, and Playa Navío. Open Tu-Su 8:30am-5pm; the gates are always open, but during these hours you have to pay to park and lifeguards patrol the beach.)

Playa Media Luna. Located directly east of Sun Bay, Half Moon Beach is part of the balneario complex, but it is physically separated and feels worlds away. This quiet bay has soft waves and perfectly turquoise water that stays about waist deep for over 40 ft. out, making it a popular place for kids to play. The only facilities are trash cans and a couple of covered picnic tables. (Enter the Sun Bay complex, then drive east on the dirt road for about mi. 4WD required.)

 Playa Navío. The third member of the Sun Bay balneario complex, Navío feels more secluded than its western neighbors. This small bay is less protected by cliffs and thus waves pound directly against the shore, creating large waves that are great for boogie boarders but dangerous for small children. Due to the its rough access roads, Navío is usually nearly deserted and feels like a private beach. This is the Sun Bay complex’s best snorkeling site, due to the depth and clarity of the water. (Continue mi. past Playa Media Luna on the bumpy dirt road. 4WD required.)

 Green Beach. Green Beach actually consists of a series of small, disconnected sandy areas running south from Punta Arenas. The gentle waves lap against the palm-lined beach, making for enjoyable swimming and picturesque sunsets. Mainland Puerto Rico is visible in the distance. The shallow-water reef at the south end of Green Beach is also home to some of the best snorkeling in Vieques. The trek through jungle-like forest to get out to the beach is half the fun. (Take Rte. 200 west into the old Navy base, then continue onto the dirt road. Veer right at the fork, and cross 2 bridges. The road forms a T at the end—go left for snorkeling and right for Punta Arenas. Facilities include trash cans and 1 covered picnic table. 4WD required.)

 Red, Blue, And García Beaches. These three popular, incredibly beautiful beaches can be accessed on the former Navy lands. Red Beach, also known as “Playa Caracas,” has the island’s second-best snorkeling, which can be found by swimming out to the small island about 100 yd. offshore, on the right-hand side of the beach. Red Beach is very family friendly, offering gazebos, picnic tables, and portable toilets. All three have perfect white sands and bright blue waters, although Blue Beach, known in Spanish as “Bahía de la Chiva,” is by far the largest and has some gazebos. (Take Rte. 997 to the Camp García gate, then follow the dirt road east. 4WD is required for Blue and García Beaches, and is strongly recommended for Red Beach.)

Gringo Beach. Located on the island’s north shore between the airport and the Wyndham Martineau Bay resort, this aptly-named narrow stretch of sand provides a place to rest in the sun and take in the sea breeze and view, if you don’t mind the sound of nearby traffic. Although it is nowhere near being the best beach on the island, the reason to visit is its accessibility—it is one of the few that can be reached via a paved road. (Rte. 200 Km 3.8. Park on the side of the road.)

Playa Grande. For a bit more privacy, head to Playa Grande. This long, narrow beach has coarse sand and no facilities, but offers a unique landscape, with several small inlets dotted with large boulders. This is the place to sit on a rock, watch the tide roll in, and let your mind drift. The water has big waves and gets deep quickly, making swimming difficult. (Drive west on Rte. 996 past Esperanza to Rte. 201, continue to the end of the road, and turn left. Park in the circle of pavement.)

Outdoor Activities

Bioluminescent Bay

Nowhere on Puerto Rico does the water shine like it does in Bahía Mosquito. This large bay on the south coast of Vieques is the most impressive example of dinoflagellitic bioluminescence anywhere in the world. When you jump in the bay, it looks like you are radioactive; when you float, it looks as though you have thousands of glowing sprinkles all over your body. Local organizations and the U.S Department of Fish and Wildlife are working to preserve the bay’s magic by reducing artificial light pollution and educating locals about the bay’s value, but Mosquito Bay continues to be threatened. Barracuda Bay, the next inlet to the east, is also bioluminescent, but most tours don’t head out that far. The Department has issued a restriction on trips to the Bio Bay, stating that only official tour groups can swim in the bay; this limits traffic to a handful of tours every evening. It is a good idea to call ahead to reserve spaces in the tour of your choice, as the companies below can become swamped during high season.

• Abe’s (☎741-2134 or 436-2686; www.abessnorkeling.com). Abe has received glowing reviews for his 2hr. Night BioBay kayaking tour ($30). Also available are daytime tours to Cayo Afuera (adults $45, children under 12 $18) and Mosquito Pier (adults $30, children under 12 $15) for snorkeling. Open daily 8am-8pm. Cash only.
• Island Adventures, Rte. 996 Km 4.5 (☎741-0720; www.biobay.com), at corner of driveway for Hacienda Tamarindo. Run by the Bio Bay Conservation Group, Island Adventures leads 1-2hr. tours through the bio bay. First, groups listen to an informative talk, then they take a bus to the bay for the electric boat tour and swimming. Trips almost every night, except during a full moon. Call ahead for reservations. Adults $32, under 12 $16. Tax included. MC/V.
• Blue Caribe Kayaks, C. Flamboyán 149 (☎741-2522), in Esperanza. Offers 2hr. kayak tours of the bioluminescent bay, with a chance to swim ($30). Also leads and 2hr. kayaking and snorkeling trips around Cayo Afuera ($35). Single kayak rental $10 per hr., $55 per day; double kayaks $15 per hr. Also rents bikes ($5 per hr., $13 per day), fishing poles ($12 per day) and boogie boards ($5 per day). Open daily 9am-5pm. MC/V.
• Aqua Frenzy Kayaks (☎741-0913) rents double kayaks ($15 for the 1st hr., $10 per hr. thereafter; $45 per day). Allows renters to take the kayaks overnight, and provides information about kayaking in the bio bay. Also offers bio bay tours ($30 per person) and 3hr. snorkeling tours ($45 per person). Kayak drop-off available. MC/V.

Boating

The specialty at Marauder Sailing Charters is a full-day sail on a 34 ft. yacht, with swimming and snorkeling in reefs only accessible by boat, and a BBQ lunch with open bar (☎435-4858. $100 per person. Open 10am-3pm. Cash only.)

Diving And Snorkeling

Like Culebra and Fajardo, the area around Vieques is flush with good, relatively shallow diving opportunities. However, the island does not have a scuba shop, so you can only dive here with a charter from the mainland. Vieques also has some great snorkeling, but the best areas are accessible only by boat. The best place to snorkel from land is Green Beach , followed closely by Red Beach’s Mosquito Pier . At Red Beach, good snorkeling can be found under the pier and the four pylons just off to the side. In Esperanza, the small dock in front of Playa Esperanza attracts a few fish. Cayo Afuera, the island in front of the strip, has good reefs, but it’s quite a swim.

Horseback Riding

Penny Miller’s daughter at El Seagate leads horseback rides through the mountains, the beach, and Isabel II. (☎741-4661 or 667-2805. Reservations requested. 2hr. ride $65 per person, group rates available. MC/V.)

Nightlife And Festivals

Vieques may be a major tourist area, but its nightlife scene is laid-back and oriented toward an older crowd. The island of Vieques celebrates two annual festivals. The weekend after Easter, the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture hosts a cultural festival at the fort with local artwork and music (☎741-1717). Vieques’s festivales patronales are celebrated during the third weekend in July in the Sun Bay area. Contact the tourist office (☎741-0800) for exact dates.

• Al’s Mar Azul, C. Plinio Peterson 577 (☎741-3400), in Isabel II. Some tourists and all the local characters stop by daily to shoot pool and hang out on the wooden patio overlooking the water. Dare to try the Coquí hot sauce (“sweat factor 10”) and don’t miss the annual Spam Cook-Off, held in May. This one-of-a-kind celebration features competitions for best entree, appetizer, and sculpture, and at the end everyone eats the winning entries. Pool tables. Beer $1.50-3.25. Mixed drinks $3-7. Sa karaoke 10pm-1am. 18+ after 9pm and to use pool tables. Happy hour daily 5-7pm. Open M, W-Th, Su 11am-1am, F-Sa 11am-2:30am. MC/V.
• Restaurante Bilí, C. Flamboyán 144 (☎741-1382), located along the Malecón or “the strip” in Esperanza. The specialty martinis ($8) are the reason to come. Beer $2-3. Frozen drinks $5-6. Open M and W-Su 11am-5pm and 6-11pm. AmEx/MC/V.