Joyuda Overview

This 3 mi. strip of coastal road contains more seafood restaurants than any other place in Puerto Rico, and mayagüezanos regularly drive down to sample the fresh delicacies and watch the sunset. The town has few beaches, but Isla Ratones, about half a mile offshore, has a small sandy beach. A ferry runs out to the island from Rte. 102 Km 13.7, next to Island View Restaurant. (☎851-7708. $5 round-trip. Open Tu-Su 9am-5pm.) If you’re going to Ratones for the day, you can grab groceries at Conchitas supermarket, which offers a basic selection of food and beverages. (Rte. 102 Km 14.1. ATM and bakery. Open M-Sa 7am-7pm.) For a much longer trip out to sea, check in with Tourmarine Adventures, Rte. 102 Km 14.1. Captain Elick Hernández charters his 34 ft. boat for the 3hr. trip to Isla Mona ($135 per person; min. 10 people) or for more local sightseeing. He is very flexible, but you must either have a group or pay for the entire boat. Common trips include all-day snorkeling at Desecheo Island ($75, snacks and gear included, group of 10), a 5-6hr. whale-watching trip in the Mona Passage (Feb.-Mar.; $65 per person), or local 2hr. snorkeling trips ($35 plus $10 for equipment). Call ahead to see if you can join another group. (☎375-2625; www.tourmarinepr.com. Cash only.)

Considering the area’s limited attractions, the plethora of hotels in Joyuda is rather extraordinary. Several small hotels and guesthouses are tucked between larger, pricier offerings. Little Hotel Costa de Oro Inn , Rte. 102 Km 14.7, is a modern building with a friendly guesthouse feel and immaculate rooms that live up to the standards of a much larger hotel. A pool fills the courtyard. A small cafeteria also serves food costing $4-12. (☎851-5010. A/C and cable TV. Check-in 2pm. Check-out noon. June-Aug. doubles $70; quads $95. Sept.-May $55/70. Extra person $15. MC/V.) Beyond the rows of modern, commercial hotels sits Tony’s Restaurant and Hotel 4, Rte. 102 Km 10.9. The bright blue rooms surround a parking lot, with a pool in the back. (☎851-2500; fax 851-6349. TV, A/C; quads have fridges. Doubles $90; quads $110.) Portraits of Tony’s musician friends hang on the walls of the upscale restaurant 4. (Entrees $15-25.) If you’re looking to stay right on the beach, try Parador Joyuda Beach, Rte. 102 Km 11.7, which has a small beach area and a volleyball net. Rooms have A/C and cable TV, and a restaurant with breakfast buffet sits right on the water. (☎851-5650. Doubles $105; quads $125. AmEx/MC/V.)

Choosing a restaurant in Joyuda is like picking a bar in San Juan; there are just too many good options. Most of the seafood is fresh, and almost all restaurants serve crab, mahi-mahi, red snapper, lobster, shrimp, conch, trunk fish, and octopus. The only real variety is in location and atmosphere. Mao’s Seafood House 4, Rte. 102 Km 13.8, is one of the friendlier places along this stretch of road, owned and operated by a lifelong Joyuda resident. All the standard seafood dishes and a casual atmosphere combine with a view of Isla Ratones for a pleasant dining experience. (☎255-1801. Appetizers $3-8. Entrees $13-20. Open Tu-Su 11:30am-11pm.) The Puerto Rican Tourism Company selected Tino’s Restaurant , Rte. 102 Km 13.6, as their Joyuda mesón gastronómico. Although it does not look out over the water, Tino’s offers a touch of class and specialty seafood-filled mofongo $12-16 (☎851-2976. Entrees $8-26. Open W-Su 11am-10pm. AmEx/MC/V.)