Berlin Gay and Lesbian Travel

With a virtually unparalleled cafe, club, bar, and sex party scene, Berlin is one of the gay capitals of Europe. Indeed, as T-shirts proudly declare, “Berlin ist schwul” (Berlin is gay). During the Cold War, thousands of homosexuals flocked to West Berlin to take part in its left-wing activist scene as well as to avoid West Germany’s Wehrpflicht (mandatory military service). Even before the war, Berlin was known as a gay metropolis, particularly in the 1920s. Christopher Isherwood lived in gay-friendly Nollendorfplatz while writing his collection of stories Goodbye to Berlin, which later became the musical Cabaret. The city’s reputation for tolerance was marred by the Nazi persecutions of the 1930s and 40s, when thousands of gay and lesbian Berliners were deported to concentration camps. When the Wall fell, Berlin’s Szene was revitalized by eastern Berlin’s formerly oppressed homosexual community and the subsequent surge of new gay and lesbian clubs in the eastern half of the city. All of Nollendorfpl. is gay-friendly, with mixed bars and cafes on the main streets (Goltzstr., Akazienstr., and Winterfeldtstr.), and more flamboyant locales in the “Bermuda Triangle” of Motzstr., Fuggerstr., and Eisenacherstr.

Love buff men with feather headdresses, hot lesbian fairies, and chesty drag queens? Be sure to check out Berlin’s Christopher Street Day (June 25, 2011). Some 500,000 GLBT and supporters will take to the streets with enough rainbow pride flags to make a leprechaun dizzy. This is gay pride at its finest, 33 years in the making. Look out for the imbiss, or french fry stand, sporting a rainbow flag on any day of the year. Where else in the world will a proud gay shop-owner serve you fast food?

Art-Hotel Connection, Fuggerstr. 33 (tel: 030 210 21 88 00; www.arthotel-connection.de). Recently redecorated with deep purple walls, crystal chandeliers, and dark wood floors, this hotel is (almost) nothing but class. A gay hotel that describes itself as “hetero-friendly,” Art-Hotel boasts some of the most sophisticated style in Shöneberg. But lest we get too serious, this hotel also offers “playrooms,” with slings and other sex toys. Mar-Oct singles €48; doubles €64; “playrooms” €99. Nov.-Feb. €43/59/89. Reception 8am-10pm.
Cafe Berio, Maaßenstr. 7 (tel: 030 216 19 46; www.cafe-berio.de). French doors open to the streets and let passerby look in on this constantly jam-packed Viennese-style cafe. Frequented by a mostly gay clientele, Cafe Berio is a favorite stop-off point before a night of clubbing. The two-floor cafe is best known for their breakfast menu (€3-11), two-for-one happy hour drinks (M-Th and Su 7pm-midnight, F-Sa 7-9pm), and obscenely extensive menu of dessert options, with cakes and tortes (from €2). Entrees €5-9. Open M-Th 8am-midnight, F-Sa 8am-1am, Su 8am-midnight. Kitchen open daily 8am-11pm.
Hafen, Motzstr. 19 (tel: 030 211 41 18; www.hafen-berlin.de) Nearly 20 years old, this bar has become a landmark for Berlin’s gay community. The sign outside may only specifically invite “drop dead gorgeous looking tourists,” but you’ll find plenty of locals all along the spectrum of attractiveness. The mostly male crowd spills out onto the streets during the summer. The weekly pub quiz, Monday at 8pm, is wildly popular (first Monday of the month in English), and every Wednesday features a new DJ. On April 30th, Hafen hosts their largest party of the year, in honor of the Queen of the Netherlands. They promise us that the “Queen” makes an appearance. No cover. Open daily 8am-4am.
Prinzknecht Fuggerstr. 33 (tel: 030 23 62 74 44; www.prinzknecht.de) Prinzknecht serves a mostly male clientele from a huge central wooden bar. Even with so many bar stools and couches, the bar fills up way past capacity on event nights, and people begin to resemble waves on the street. Check the website for upcoming events, including an incredibly popular TABBA night. No cover. Open M-F 2pm-3am, Sa and Su 3pm-3am.
Begine, Potsdamer Str. 139 (tel: 030 215 14 14; www.begine.de) In a neighborhood dominated by male gay clubs, Begine is a welcome retreat for women. Named after a now-defunct Lesbian WC, Berlin’s biggest lesbian community center has a popular, low-key cafe/bar with comfortable sofas, live music, and readings at night. No cover. Open M-F 5pm-late, Sa 3pm-late, Su 7pm-late.
Helle Welt, Motzstr. 5 (tel: 030 21 91 75 05) Even with the addition of two enormous, quiet sitting rooms, the 20-something clientele still pack the bar and take over the street. The fur-covered wall, chandeliers, and well-directed mood lighting don’t keep this sophisticated-looking club from being relaxed. Though it has a mostly male crowd during “prime time,” more women show up in the early evening, on weekdays, and in the morning. No cover. Open daily 6pm-4am, sometimes later.
Xara Cafe and Lounge, Maaßenstr. 7 (tel: 030 30 10 47 77) In an area dominated by high energy nightlife, this bar offers up mellow with a hookah side. Serving inexpensive crepes and baguettes by day, this cafe turns into a relaxed lounge at night, with outdoor seating overlooking a popular street. Comfortable chairs are grouped around tables with hookah, popular with a younger crowd. Crepes from €2, baguettes from €3.20. Hookah €8 per pipe. Cocktails €6.10-8.80. Beer €2.60-3.50. Shots €2.90-5.50. Open daily from 9am-late. Happy hour Su-Th 7-10pm, cocktails €4.
Maxxx, Fuggerstr. 34 (tel: 030 21 00 52 89; www.maxxx-berlin.de) A smoky, dark-green interior with a simple bar draws a mostly male, leather-clad crowd for some unexpected chill-out conversation. Maxxx has inexpensive drinks and ready-to-talk bartenders. During the day, the bar doubles as a cafe. Beer from €2.50. Open daily noon-3am.
SO36, Oranienstr. 190 (tel: 030 61 40 13 06; www.so36.de) SO36 sees itself less as a club, though it’s a great club, and more as an organization with an attitude. The various parties, live bands, and cultural presentations that go on here attract a mixed gay/straight clientele whose common demoninator is that they like to party hardy. Gayhane, a gay cabaret that performs the last Saturday of every month, has become a staple of the Berlin gay scene, and can get pretty epic. Remember how Cabaret takes place in Berlin? Well, this lives up to that reputation. Prices vary. Opening times vary, but usually open F-Sa 10pm-late.
Roses, Oranienstr. 187 (tel: 030 6156570) Mostly gay men and a few lesbians hang out in this little bar that has fuzzy pink walls and a fuzzy pink ceiling. The bar’s small size keeps the energy level high, and the endless assortment of wall trinkets (glowing mounted antlers, glowing hearts) will keep you curious. Beer €3. Mixed drinks €4-6. Open daily 9pm-late.
Bierhimmel, Oranienstr. 183 (tel: 030 6153122) A relaxing gay-friendly cafe that draws a good mix of gays, lesbians, and straight people. Many have a drink or two here before heading out to more wild adventures like Roses and SO36 next door. The barstaff requests that only nice people who understand tipping stop by. Mixed drinks €4-6. Coffee €1-4. Open daily 1pm-late.

Mann-o-Meter, Bülowstr. 106, at the corner of Else-Lasker-Schüler-Str., offers counseling and information on gay nightlife and long-term living arrangements, in addition to affordable drinks and internet access. (☎030 216 8008; www.mann-o-meter.de. Open M-F 5-10pm, Sa-Su 4-10pm.) Spinnboden-Lesbenarchiv, Anklamer Str. 38, at the back of the courtyard, tends toward hip lesbian cultural offerings, with exhibits, films, and information about current lesbian life. (U8 to “Bernauer Str.” ☎030 448 5848; www.spinnboden.de. Open W and F 2-7pm.) Lesbenberatung, Kulmer Str. 20a, has a library, movie screenings, and counseling on lesbian issues. (U7 to “Kleistpark.” ☎030 215 2000; www.lesbenberatung-berlin.de. Open M-Tu and Th 10am-7pm, W and F 10am-5pm.)

For up-to-date event listings, pick up a free copy of the amazing Siegessäule at virtually any gay establishment, or visit www.siegessaeule.de. Less in-depth, but also useful, is Sergej, a free publication for men. The monthly Blattgold (€3 from women’s bookstores and some natural food stores; www.blattgold-berlin.de) has information and listings for women. Prinz Eisenherz Buchladen, Lietzenburger Str. 9a, has gay- and lesbian-themed books, many of them in English. (☎313 99 36. Open M-Sa 10am-8pm.) Most Frauencafes are not exclusively lesbian, but they do offer an all-female setting.

The second half of July is the high point of the annual GLBT calendar of events, when the ecstatic, champagne-soaked floats of the Christopher Street Day (CSD) Parade line the streets in a 6hr. street party that draws more than 250,000 revelers. The weekend before CSD sees the smaller but equally jubilant Lesbisch-schwules Stadtfest (Gay/Lesbian City Fair) at Nollendorfpl.