Kaunas Overview

Kaunas (pop. 381,300) marked the Russian border in the late 17th century and served as the capital of Lithuania between WWI and WWII. Today, it is the nation’s second-largest city. At the eastern end of Laisvės, the main pedestrian boulevard, the silver domes of the Church of St. Michael the Archangel sparkle over the city. (Open M-F 9am-3pm, Sa-Su 8:30am-2pm. Free.) Nearby, the Antanas Zmuidzinavicius Works and Collections Museum, V. Putvinskio 64, exhibits more than 2000 depictions of the devil, who was revered as a guardian in Lithuanian folklore until Christianity rained on the Satanic parade. (Open Tu-Su 11am-5pm. 5Lt, students 2.50Lt.) The western end of Laisvės merges with Vilniaus and leads to the well-preserved Old Town. Walk west from Old Town Square to reach the meeting of the Neris and Nemunas rivers and the beautiful Santakos Park. Take a microbus to the Ninth Fort, where the Nazis killed 50,000 prisoners, 30,000 of them Jews. Take microbus 30 (2Lt) and ask the driver for directions at the last stop, then walk about 20min. (☎37 37 77 15. Open M and W-Su 10am-6pm. Each museum 2Lt, students 1Lt.) Stumble through the dark catacombs of St. Michael the Archangel at the Museum for the Blind, guided only by smells and sounds. (Open W 11am-3:30pm, Sa 11am-1:30pm. 3Lt.)

  Kaunas Archdiocese Guest House , Gedimino 28, arranges private rooms. (☎37 22 87 18; www.litinterp.lt. Open M-F 8:30am-5:30pm, Sa 9:30am-3pm. Singles 80-120Lt; doubles 140-160Lt. MC/V.) Tables quake and chairs levitate without warning at the wacky Crazy House , Vilniaus 16. It’s one of only two restaurants in the world where diners have to contend with moving furniture. (☎37 22 11 82. Entrees 6-26Lt. Open M-Th and Su 11am-midnight, F-Sa 11am-2am. MC/V.) Try the lunch special (main course and soup; 7Lt) at Dviese , Vilniaus 8. (☎37 20 36 38. Open daily 10am-10pm. Cash only.) Club Los Patrankos, Savanoriv 124, is a nighttime hotspot. (☎37 33 82 28; www.lospatrankos.lt. Live DJ on weekends. Open Tu-Th 9pm-4am, F-Sa 9pm-6am, Su 1-5pm. MC/V.)

To reach Kaunas from Vilnius, take a bus (1hr., 2-3 per hr., 20Lt). Branches of the tourist office are at the bus stop and at Laisvės 36. (☎37 32 34 36; http://visit.kaunas.lt">http://visit.kaunas.lt">http://visit.kaunas.lt. Open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa-Su 9am-1pm and 2-6pm.) Postal Code: 3000.