Khon Kaen Overview

Unlike other Isaan cities, Khon Kaen feels like a major urban center, thanks to its notable, albeit small, skyline, and its large and well-planned grid system of roadways. The presence of Isaan’s largest university, with its thousands of vibrant students, also sets the city apart from its neighbors. Like other northeastern cities, Khon Kaen lacks a big tourist attraction and is often overlooked. Nevertheless, its festive nightlife, open-air markets, and efficient transportation system give visitors the means to enjoy themselves. It also serves as a handy base for trips to the silk village of Chonabot and Phu Wiang National Park.

Khon Kaen is 450km from Bangkok and is accessible by plane, bus, or train.

Flights: Khon Kaen Airport (☎043 246 774), 8km west of town off Maliwan Rd. Thai Airways, 9/9 Prachasamran Rd. (☎056 227 701), inside the Sofitel Hotel, flies to Bangkok (2340฿). Open daily 9am-4:30pm.
Trains: Khon Kaen Train Station (☎043 221 112), where Ruen Rom Rd. ends at Darunsamran Rd. To: Bangkok (9hr.; 8:37, 8:11am, 9:05, 10:16pm; 379-679฿); Khorat (3hr.; 1:38, 3:54pm; 30฿); Nong Khai (3hr.; 9:40am, 2:10, 4:15, 5:42pm; 35฿) via Udon Thani (2hr.; 4:20, 7pm; 25฿). Advanced booking office open daily 6am-6pm. Songthaew #3, 11, 12, 14, and 17 run past the train station.
Buses: Khon Kaen has 2 bus stations. The regular bus station serves more destinations, while the A/C bus station has a central location but more expensive bus service.
- Regular bus station (☎043 237 472), on Pracha Samoson Rd., by the pedestrian overpass. To: Bangkok (7-8hr., 12 per day; 6:30am-5:30pm, 294฿) via Khorat (3hr., 133฿); Chiang Mai (12hr.; 6, 8, 9:30am, 1, 5:45pm; 503฿) via Pitsanulok (6hr., 231฿); Loei (3hr., every 30min. 3:40am-6:30pm, 146฿); Mukdahan (5hr., every 30min. 4am-6:30pm, 146฿); Ubon Ratchathani (5hr., 9 per day 5:20am-4pm, 192฿); Nong Khai (3hr., every 30min. 5am-6:30am, 120฿); Udon Thani (2hr., every hr. 5am-4pm, 85฿); Surin (6hr., every hr. 4am-3pm, 187฿); Roi Et (2hr., every hr. 6am-6pm, 83฿); Rayong (12hr., 6 per day 10am-9:30pm, 392฿) via Pattaya (10hr., 346฿); Chiang Rai (13hr.; 5 per day 10am-7:30pm; 494฿).
- A/C bus station (☎043 239 910), on Glang Muang Rd. To: Bangkok (6hr., every hr. 6:30am-12:15am, 378-585฿); Khorat (4hr.; 8am, 1pm; 171฿); Chiang Mai (13hr.; 6, 8, 9pm; 578฿) via Phitsanulok (5hr., 297฿); Chiang Rai (14hr.; 6, 8, 9pm; 635฿); Nong Khai (4hr.; 9am, noon; 157฿) via Udon Thani (2hr., 110฿); Ubon Ratchathani (5hr.; 9, 11am, 1, 2pm; 247฿).
Local Transportation: Look for samlor (30-40฿), tuk-tuks (30-60฿), and songthaew (8฿). Songthaew #4 runs along Nah Muang Rd., #11 runs from Khon Kaen Train Station to TAT, #17 runs from TAT to the National Museum and #13 runs down the east side of Beung Kaen Nakhon. Songthaew route numbers are also listed on signs at the numerous stops throughout the city. Routes are always subject to change, so ask the driver before you get on.

Orientation And Practical Information

The main north-south thoroughfares, Nah Muang Road and Glang Muang Road, are lined with hotels, restaurants, and the A/C bus station. Farther south, they cross Sri Chant Road, home to the best nightlife. Past Sri Chant Rd., on Glang Muang Rd., the post office, police station, and day market lead to Ruen Rom Road. A right turn onto Ruen Rom from Nah Muang Rd. leads to the train station. The regular bus station and TAT office are on Pracha Samoson Road, which intersects with Nah Muang Rd. and Glang Muang Rd. on the north side of the city. The university and airport are northwest of the center, and the reservoir, Beung Kaen Nakhon, is southwest.

Tourist Office: TAT, 15/5 Pracha Samoson Rd. (☎043 244 498). A brown and white building several blocks from the regular bus station. Offers maps and guides of Khon Kaen and surrounding provinces. Open daily 8:30am-4:30pm.
Tours: Kaen Inn Travel (☎043 234 5734; kaeninnhotel@yahoo.com), inside the Kaen Inn Hotel, can book transportation, accommodations, and tours. Open M-F 9am-4pm. AmEx/MC/V.
Consulates: Laos, 171 Pracha Samoson Rd. (☎043 242 856). Fees for 30-day visas vary by nationality. Most range 1200-1700฿. Same-day service available for 200฿. 1 photo required. Open M-F 8am-noon and 1-4pm. Vietnam, 65/6 Chatapadung Rd. (☎043 242 190). 15-day visas US$25, 30-day visas US$40. 1 photo required. Open M-F 8-11:30am and 1:30-4:30pm. Songthaew #10 runs to both consulates.
Currency Exchange: Many banks and ATMs are on Sri Chant Rd. Bangkok Bank, 254 Sri Chant Rd. (☎043 225 144), next to Charoen Thani Princess Hotel entrance. 24hr. ATM. Open M-F 8:30am-3:30pm, currency exchange open Sat-Su 9am-5pm. Krung Thai Bank is next door. Open M-F 9am-4:30pm.
Books: Suksapan Khon Kaen Bookstore, 23 Pracha Samoson Rd. (☎043 237 005; www.suksapan-kk.com), on the corner of Glang Muang Rd., down the yellow-colored alley. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 8am-6pm.
Rentals: Motorbikes and cars can be rented from shops around the Sofitel Hotel, off Sri Chant Rd. One is Narujee Car Rent, 178 Soi Kosa (☎043 224 220), just off Sri Chant Rd., in the underpass near Kosa Hotel. Motorcycles 200฿, cars 1200-1800฿. Copy of passport required. Open daily 7am-7pm.
Tourist Police: 149 Mittraphap Rd. (☎043 236 937), south of Khon Kaen, 300m before Lotus supermarket, on the righthand side. Songthaew #3-6, 10-12, 17, 19-20 go by. Open 24hr.
Pharmacy: Phon Phesad (☎043 228 260), just off Sri Chant Rd., near the Bangkok Bank. Open daily 8am-midnight.
Medical Services: Khon Kaen-Ram Hospital, 193 Sri Chant Rd. (☎043 333 800), near the intersection with Mitraphap Rd. English-speaking doctors. Open 24hr. Songthaew #2, 14, 19, 20 go by.
Internet Access: Numerous Internet cafes on Glang Muang Rd., north of Ammart Rd. (15฿ per hr.) Those near the university shopping plaza open 24hr. CAT, 18/13-14 Phimpasut Rd. (☎043 241 560), sells calling cards (100min. card for 7฿ per hr.) and offers Internet service. Open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm.
Post Office: GPO, 153/8 Glang Muang Rd., just south of Sri Chant Rd. Poste Restante on ground floor. Open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm, Sa-Su 9am-noon. Postal Code: 40000.

Accommodations

Khon Kaen is a large city with plenty of accommodation options. Most budget travelers opt for one of the cheaper places in the heart of town, between the two bus stations. There are also inexpensive hotels around the university, many of which offer major rate reductions. Thanks to the city’s convenient songthaew service, all accommodations are within an 8฿ ride.

Phu Inn Hotel, 26-34 Sathityutitham Rd. (☎043 243 174), has an ideal location. For a reasonable price you get an excellent room. Each has a large cable TV, comfortable bed with clean sheets, couch, and private bathroom with hot water and Western toilet. Doubles with A/C 350฿.
Cactus Resort and Hotel, 171/38-39 Pracha Samosan Rd. (☎043 244 888), across from the Laos Embassy, off songthaew routes #10 and 11. The chic rooms and sparkly, colorful tiled bathrooms create a real oasis in the middle of Isaan. Rooms with A/C, minibar, cable TV, and free Wi-Fi 550฿. MC/V.
Sansumran Hotel, 55-59 Glang Muang Rd. (☎043 239 611). The closest thing to a backpacker vibe in Khon Kaen. Small rooms 170฿; larger rooms 200฿.
Kaen Inn, 56 Glang Muang Rd. (☎043 245 42031), at the intersection with Ammart Rd. and opposite the A/C bus station. Apart from the suites, only rooms with twin beds are available. They are a little dark, but comfortable with large cable TV and carpeted floors. Breakfast included. Karaoke bar, restaurant, and airport transfers (60฿ per person). Rooms with 2 twin beds 660฿, suites with 1 large bed 1400฿. AE/MC/V.

Food

There’s no need to go hungry in this gourmand-friendly city. Options range from upscale and atmospheric (around Beung Kaen Nakhon Reservoir) to ultra-cheap (clustered on Phimpasut and Ammart Rd.). A sizeable day market selling fruits, vegetables, and pig heads hides behind storefronts along Nah Muang and Glang Muang Rd., and stretches south to Ruen Rom Rd. (Open daily 5am-6pm.) Cheap Isaan meals like sup nau mai (shredded bamboo-shoot salad) tempt hungry passersby at night markets, on Lang Muang and Ruen Rom Rd. Look for pad mee khon kaen, fried noodles similar to pad thai, but with a slightly sour taste, unique to this city (20฿). Rumor has it that the best place to taste it is from is the small cart on Sathityutitham Rd., across from the night market. And for those on a budget, you can’t beat the dirt cheap meals at the university joints throughout campus.

Ban Suan, 539/3 Nah Muang Rd. (☎043 227 811). Exiting Fairy Plaza, take a left, and walk for 1km. Songthaew #9, 19, and 20 go by. Chinese, Thai, Isaan, and outdoor Korean BBQ. Stuff yourself to your heart’s content with cook-your-own food (109฿). If you come alone, 99฿ will only buy you the precooked food (still an impressive selection). You will have to pay for the equivalent of 2 people (218฿) to do cook-your-own at your table. Open nightly 4pm-2am.
Bua Luang Restaurant (☎043 222 504), at the end of a piece of land that juts out into Bua Luang Reservoir. Listen to the water lapping up against the pilons below while you eat your meal. The English menu has a small selection of tasty meals. Try the prawn with coconut palm heart (80฿). Most dishes 80-150฿. Open daily 10am-11pm.
The Boat, 243/79 Mittraphap Rd. (☎043 239 943), north of the city. Khon Kaen’s famous restaurant and jazz club. On certain nights, Thai pop makes way for a live jazz band. Braised duck with vegetables 100-180฿. Music starts around 7pm. Most dishes 80-150฿. Open daily 11am-10:30pm.
The First Choice Restaurant, 18/8 Phimpasut Rd. (☎043 332 019), opposite Khon Kaen Hotel. A chill backpacker space perfect for reading the paper and chatting with other travelers while snacking on numerous vegetarian options. Serves up a hefty selection of Western favorites. Owner also runs a travel agency. Western breakfast 80฿. Thai dishes 50-100฿. Open daily 7:30am-10pm.

Sights

In the southeast corner of Khon Kaen is Beung Kaen Nakhon, a lakeside recreational area enclosed by four wats. Numerous food stalls line the northern shore. At dusk, youngsters compete in games of table tennis and couples holding hands as they walk along the lake’s shoreline. Every year in the middle of April, the lake also plays host to the Dok Khoon Song Kran Festival, which features Isaan music, floral processions, and dances. On the southwest shores of the lake is Wat Nong Waeng, where you can climb to the top of the 9-story chedi to meditate or take in panoramic views of the city. Monks and laypeople walk up each layer of the chedi, gaining good karma while burning calories.

The well-presented Khon Kaen National Museum (Phiphitthaphanthasathan Haeng Chat), at Lungsoomratchakan and Kasikonthungsang Rd., documents the history of central northeast Thailand. The second floor has articles from the olden days, while the first floor is devoted to prehistoric times. Particularly impressive are the semas, or carved boundary stones. (☎043 246 170. Songthaew #12, 17, and 21 go by. Open W-Su 9am-4pm. 30฿.)

About 4km northwest of town, Khon Kaen University (Mahawitthayalai Khon Kaen) is a student city built over almost 6000 rai of land. Songthaew #8 drives through the campus. Hop off at the 7-Eleven next to the shopping plaza and wander around the shops and cheap eateries to get a feel for student life. The university is also home to a small art and cultural museum (☎043 332 035), near the university gate on Maliwan Rd. It has temporary exhibits and Isaan music. There’s also a finearts department on campus. If you’re lucky, friendly students may give you a tour and show you their artwork. (Open daily 10am-7pm. Free.)

Nightlife

Khon Kaen’s nightlife centers around Prachasamran Rd., near the upscale Sofitel Hotel. The area gets infused with the energy and style of Khon Kaen’s young hipsters, who dance the night away at the bars and clubs that constantly close and reopen with a fresh lick of paint.

U-Bar, 222/2 Prachasamran Rd. (☎043 320 434; http://ubarkk.hi5.com), just off to the side of the Sofitel Hotel. Great local bands and a sleek, young atmosphere draw lines outside the door on nights. 20+. Small Singha 80฿. Bacardi Breezer 100฿. No cover. Open daily 8pm-2am.
Rad Complex, 321/2 Prahasamran Rd. (☎043 225 988), has different themed rooms and bands: Rad Alive cranks out variety and rock, Rad Society moves to indy and hip-hop, and Freak Out bumps to techno. Singha 100฿. No cover. Freak Out open 1am-4am, all others 9pm-2am.
Freeze Cocktail Lounge, 141 Prachasmran Rd. (☎043 224 444; www.freezepub.com), 100m up from the Rad Complex, is the place to go for a quieter evening. Built like a giant icecube with frosted glass walls, Freeze Cocktail has A/C and sleek modern furniture. Both floors serve scrumptious mixed drinks (150฿). Stella Artois 140฿. Open nightly 10pm-2am. V/MC.

Shopping

Sample some of the local crafts and silk at Khon Kaen’s stores.

OTOP Center, 250-252 Sri Chant Rd. (☎043 320 320 ext. 2007), in the underpass near Kosa Shopping center and leading to Kosa Hotel. Open 9:30am-8:40pm.
The Kosa Shopping Center, a large, rather generic mall with an excellent food court. On the top floor. Prince Cineplex (☎043 389 024) screens Hollywood movies dubbed in Thai. 80฿ per person. First movie starts at noon, the last around 10pm. On the same floor is Kosa Bowl (☎043 389 160), with 30 bowling lanes. 55฿ per game, 100฿ for 3 games. Shoe rentals 25฿. Open daily 11am-midnight. V.

Daytrips From Khon Kaen

Phuwiang National Park. If you’re interested in ancient reptiles, swing by Phuwiang National Park, home to the largest dinosaur fossils in the country. Fossils dug up from the nine quarries discovered in the area in 1976 have added weight to the theory that Tyrannosaurus Rex first lived in Asia before crossing the Bering Strait to North America. Paleontologist wannabes will love the dinosaur trail, which connects the excavation sites. Although the first dig site is within walking distance of the entrance office, the park is large and the different sites are best explored by car. There is also camping available in the park. To get to the dinosaur trail without a car, hire a tuk-tuk (250-280฿) from the Phuwiang bus station and negotiate a price for a return trip. (Buses to Phuwiang (50฿) leave daily before 1:30pm from the regular bus station. From Phuwiang Station, hire a tuk-tuk for the remaining 20km (130฿). Camping 30฿, 2-person tent 120฿, large bungalows 1200฿. Open daily 8:30am-4:40pm. Park 200฿.)

Chonabot. This remote town is the capital of hand-made Thai silk, especially mudmee (traditional tie-dyed) silk. Locals skillfully produce incredible patterns and material on ancient, manual weaving machines. Most weaving occurs in private houses; however, the town has three “factories.” Most have stores attached, and are more than willing to give you a free guided tour explaining the whole process. Go early in the morning to watch the dying process. One such factory is Ruenthai Maithai. (From Khon Kaen’s regular bus station, catch any bus heading in the direction of Khorat. Ask to be let off at Ban Phai (40min., 12 per day 6:30am-5:30pm, 40฿). From there, buses and songthaew to a variety of destiations run the extra 11km to Chonabot. Alternatively, hire a motorbike. Follow the signs to Nakhon Ratchasima. Ban Phai is 37km along the highway. The turnoff for Chonabot is clearly marked. The last bus back leaves from in front of Chonabot police station at around 5pm. ☎043 287 229. Pure silk scarfs 500-650฿. Open daily 8am-5pm.)