Klaipėda Overview

Strategically located on the tip of the Neringa peninsula, Klaipėda (pop. 192,500) was briefly the capital of Prussia in the 19th century. As the northernmost Baltic harbor that doesn’t freeze, Klaipėda’s port still serves as a major shipping hub, and the city has a growing reputation as a jazz center. Follow Liepų eastward from the intersection with H. Manto to reach the Clock Museum (Laikrodžių Muziejus), Liepų 12, where elderly ladies let visitors peer at Egyptian sundials and Chinese fire clocks. (English-language pamphlet in each room. Open Tu-Sa noon-5:30pm, Su noon-4:30pm. 6Lt, students 3Lt.) The top of the 46m Mary Queen of Peace Church Tower, Rumpiškės 6A, offers a panoramic view, but is open only to groups. (2Lt, tickets available from the tourist office.) Smiltynė, across the lagoon, has deserted stretches of seashore. Would-be pirates will enjoy roaming the decks of the three Old Fishing Vessels on the road leading to the Sea Museum (Lietuvos Jūrų Muziejus) in Smiltynė. To reach the museum, purchase a ticket at the ferry terminal (2Lt) and ride a small yellow tram. (www.juru.muziejus.lt. Open June-Aug. Tu-Su 10:30am-6:30pm; May and Sept. W-Su 10:30am-6:30pm; Oct.-Apr. Sa-Su 10:30am-5pm. Tickets 4-8Lt.)

Klaipėda Traveler’s Guesthouse (HI) , Targaus 10. While you wait for some smoked herring (8Lt), browse the gallery of metalworks by sculptor Vytautas Karčiauskas upstairs. (☎46 41 07 10. Open M-Th and Su 11am-11pm, F-Sa 11am-midnight. MC/V.) Kebab stands near the ferry terminal in Smiltynė sell cheap and satisfying fare (6-8Lt). The central market in Klaipėda is on Turgaus aikštė. (Open daily 8am-6pm.) The best bars line H. Manto on the mainland. “Save trees, eat beaver!” urges Kurpiai, Kurpių 1A. To aid you, this popular restaurant and jazz club serves beaver and ostrich. (☎46 41 05 55; www.jazz.lt. Entrees 17-47Lt. Beer 5Lt. Live jazz nightly 9:30pm. Cover F-Sa 10-15Lt. Open M-Th noon-midnight, F, Sa, Su noon-3am. MC/V.)

Buses (☎46 41 15 47) go from Butkų Juzės 9 to Kaunas (3hr., 12 per day, 38Lt), Palanga (30-40min., 2 per hour, 4Lt), and Vilnius (4-5hr., 10-14 per day, 49Lt). Ferries (☎46 31 42 17) run from Old Port Ferry Terminal, Žvejų 8, to Smiltynė (7min., 2 per hr., 2Lt), with connections to Nida (1hr., 9Lt). From the International Ferry Terminal, take bus 1A or microbus 8A to the center (3Lt). The tourist office, Turgaus 7, offers Internet. (☎46 41 21 86; www.klaipedainfo.lt. Internet 4Lt per hr. Open in summer daily 9am-7pm.) Postal Code: 91247.