Ko Chang Overview

Only 30 years ago, this island paradise, nicknamed “Elephant Island” for the way its high, dark mountains rise from the waters in the shape of an imposing elephant, was primarily a temporary refuge for fishing boats caught in monsoons. In the 70s, a few tourists began staying in simple A-frame homes on Hat Khlong Phrao; ever since, visitors have been pouring in. But the boom came with a downside: inflated prices, piles of garbage, and commercialized resorts. The main road encircling the island is inundated with construction vehicles and noisy motorcycles, making serenity difficult to come by. But pockets of purity remain. The interior of the island bursts with leafy rainforests, towering waterfalls, and abundant natural wildlife; a few isolated beaches and areas of unexplored territory remain on its eastern coast; and the less exploited beaches on the western coast give off relaxing vibes.

To reach Ko Chang, take a bus to Trat, then a songthaew (every 30min. or when full 6am-6pm, 50฿) from infront of the municipal market on Sukhumvit Rd. to a pier with a departing ferry. There are three piers that run ferries to Ko Chang: Center Point Pier, Ao Thamma Chard Pier, and Naval Battle Monumnet Pier at Leam Ngop. The ferries (30-50min.; 1-way 80-100฿, round-trip 120-160฿) arrive at one of the piers on Ko Chang’s northern end. From there, shared taxis run frequently down to the west coast beaches ( Hat Sai Khao, 15min., 50฿; Hat Khlong Phrao, 30min., 60฿; Hat Kai Bae, 45min., 70฿; and Lonely Beach, 1hr., 100฿). Few taxis travel to Bang Bao, so take one to Lonely Beach and hire a private taxi from there. A new bus service from Trat to eastern Ko Chang leaves from behind Trat Department Store (daily 10am, noon, 3pm; 110฿ includes ferry fare), and goes all the way to Salak Phet on the eastern side of Ko Chang. But make sure you actually want to be there—it’s a long way from most tourist amenities.

• Ferries: Most songthaew from Trat (50฿) will only go to the pier from which the next ferry will depart. Ferries run from Naval Battle Monument Pier at Leam Ngop (1hr.; every 2hr., 6am-5pm; 1-way 80฿), Center Point Pier (1hr.; every hr. 7am-7pm; 1-way 100฿, round-trip 160฿), and Ao Thamma Chard Pier (35min.; every 45min. 6:30am-7pm; 1-way 100฿, with car 200฿, round-trip 120฿).

• Local Transportation: Songthaew leave from Lonely Beach on the hour, starting at 8am and running until the last ferry with stops at Hat Khlong Phrao and Hat Sai Khao. Songthaew also run between beaches (30-80฿).
• Rentals: Motorbike rentals (automatic 150-250฿ per day, manual slightly less; day rental usually requires you to leave your passport or license as a deposit) are available on any of the island’s 4 beaches. It is considerably cheaper to rent from the places on the main routes rather than resorts or guest houses. Note that the roads between Hat Sai Khao and the pier and Kai Bae and Lonely Beach are extremely steep and curvy, and very dangerous to ride on— every year tourists die on the road. Be sure your bike is in good condition and ask for a helmet (free) when you rent; pull over if it starts to rain, and wear closed-toe shoes with solid soles for extra stablilty. A better option is to ride the local trucks or hire a car. Don’t underestimate the dangers of the roads.

Orientation

Ko Chang’s interior is mostly a trackless rainforest, except for animal paths and national park trails. A well-paved road circles the perimeter of the island, save for the southern part, where a road linking the island’s two sides is under construction. From the pier area at the island’s northeast end, the road travels south along the east coast, passes waterfall trails, and branches into two roads: a western one ends in the fishing village of Sa Lak Phet, and an eastern one ends at sparsely populated Hat Sai Yao (Long Beach). Alternatively, a right turn at the pier passes the west coast’s four beaches: Hat Sai Khao (White Sand Beach), Hat Khlong Phrao, Hat Kai Bae, and Hat Tha Nam (Lonely Beach). The road ends in the picturesque fishing village of Bang Bao.

Practical Information

• Tourist Office: Ko Chang National Park Headquarters (☎039 555 080), in Than Mayom, halfway down the east coast, 20km from Hat Sai Khao. May be helpful for info on Ko Chang wildlife or development. Open daily 8:30am-4:30pm.
• Currency Exchange: ATMs (Cirrus/MC/V, some with AmEx) are everywhere—even on the pier far to the south in Bang Bao. Banks offering exchange populate the western beaches. Ayodya Bank (☎039 551 431), across from Mac Resort on Hat Sai Khao, has extended banking hours. Open M-F 8:30am-8pm, Sa-Su 10am-8pm.
• Books: A number of hotels have small secondhand book selections. Try Ban Pu Resort on Hat Sai Khao and Nature Beach Resort on Lonely Beach.
• Laundromat: Laundromats can be found along the main roads at most beaches on the island’s west coast. Usually 30฿ per kg.
• Police: On the eastern side of the island, just before Dan Mai (☎039 521 657). Irregularly-staffed tourist police boxes on Hat Sai Khao, Hat Kai Bae, and Bang Bao (☎039 651 351, in low season ☎081 1522 183).
• Hospital: Ko Chang Hospital (☎039 586 131), on the eastern side of the island by Dan Mai Pier. Outpatient 8:30am-noon and 1:30-4:30pm; 24hr. emergency. The more convenient Ko Chang International Clinic (☎039 551 151) provides high standards of health care at equally high prices. Open 24hr. Due to the high number of injuries on the roadways, a number of “international clinics” have popped up in imitation of this acclaimed clinic—don’t fall for imitators, especially if a health problem is dire.
• Telephones: Calls can be made at most bungalows and Internet cafes. A good rate is 40฿ per min. for calls to Australia, Canada, Europe, New Zealand, and the US. Service fees for collect calls are 10฿ per min. with a 15min. time limit.
• Internet Access: Available throughout the western beaches, even at Lonely Beach; dial-up at Nature Beach Resort (first 5min. 2฿ per min., subsequently 1฿ per min).
• Post Offices: (☎039 551 240), on the main road at Laem Chai Chet just south of Hat Sai Khao. Address Poste Restante to: Post Office, Ko Chang Island, Thailand 23170, Western Union. Also sells international phone cards. Open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm, Sa-Su 9am-noon. Postal Code: 23170.

Accommodations

The northern end of the west coast is spiked with soaring cliffs that level off towards Ko Chang’s beaches. Upscale development has been squeezing budget travelers farther south and along the east coast of the island. Of the coast’s four main beaches, Hat Sai Khao (White Sand Beach) is closest to the pier and the most developed. Hat Khlong Phrao and Hat Kai Bae, 6km and 10km from Hat Sai Khao, respectively, offer more privacy for a pretty penny. Farther south, laid-back Lonely Beach, of Full-Moon Party fame, is still the obvious choice for budget backpackers. Beyond Lonely Beach is the village of Bang Bao, which is seeing substantial development. For less concrete, check out the nearby fishing village of Sa Lek Phet or one of the islands south of Ko Chang (see below).