Gorgeous white-sand beaches, magical waterside eateries, and Thai rum served by the bucket await you on Ko Samet, one of Thailand’s national parks-turned-tourist meccas. Just 4hr. from Bangkok, Ko Samet has become a popular vacation spot for Thais and foreigners alike. Over the past 20 years, beachside bungalows have slowly encroached on much of the shoreline, and loud farang pubs and Thai karaoke bars dominate the once-still nights. Development aside, the island still has the best beaches and clearest water on the east coast. A dip in its tranquil waves or a nap on its clean sand will satisfy any traveler seeking good, old-fashioned relaxation.
Two main roads stretch down Ko Samet’s 16km length. Most boats disembark at Na Dan Pier on the island’s northeast corner. A paved road runs south to the Park Service entrance booth, where you must pay a hefty admission fee to enter the island, which is a Thai national park (200฿, 10 and under 100฿). After the park entrance, the path forks. Directly ahead is Hat Sai Kaew, while the right-hand fork continues south, behind the bungalows of the eastern beaches: Ao Hin Khok, Ao Phai, Ao Tub Tim, Ao Nuan, Ao Cho, Ao Wong Duan, Ao Thian, Hat Lung Dum, Ao Wai, and Ao Kiu. To get to these beaches, bear left at the fork after Ao Phai. Head straight to go to Ko Samet’s only west-coast beach, Ao Phrao. Beachside paths and jungle trails link all of the beaches except Ao Phrao and Ao Kiu and are generally easy to walk. The only way to avoid paying the park entrance fee is to stay on one of the northern beaches, Ao Noina or Ao Klang. To get there, head right from Na Dan Pier down the nice paved road. Some travelers report that though visitors technically should pay the park entrance fee if they want to visit any of the eastern or western beaches, they have been able to avoid this by leaving their luggage at a northern guesthouse; they claim that this prevents the park rangers from distinguishing those who have paid from those who have not. However, the small savings aren’t really enough to offset the long walk from the northern to western or eastern beaches, not to mention breaking the law and depriving the park of much-needed funds.
Lodgings on Ko Samet run the gamut from rustic bungalows to five-star luxury resorts. Most tourists head to eastern beaches like Hat Sai Kaew, Ao Hin Khok, Ao Phai, and Ao Wong Duan, while Ao Nuan, Ao Cho, Ao Wai, and Ao Tub Tim tend to be more isolated and tranquil. Ao Kiu and Ao Phrao cater almost entirely to high-budget travelers and do not offer cheap accommodations. The northern beaches offer a wide range of options, from tents to floating off-shore hotels. Most backpackers head to Ao Hin Khok, or the beaches just south of it, for a good balance of affordable prices, proximity to Na Dan Pier and its services, and an abundance of fantastic beach restaurants, noisy bars, and late-night dancing. Many of the accommodations on Ko Samet raise their prices on long weekends and holidays due to the influx of young Thai partiers from Bangkok. Ask about low-season discounts from May to October. Camping is available on all beaches, though it may be a good idea to pitch your tent in the vicinity of a beach guesthouse, where bathrooms and showers can be used for a negotiated fee. No fires are allowed on the beaches, and violators are fined 5000฿.
Ao Hin Khok And Ao Phai. A more friendly and welcoming version of Bangkok’s Khaosan Rd., Ao Hin Khok is a backpacker haven. Come here for cheap, quality lodging accompanied by a lively atmosphere and great screenings of English-language flicks; don’t come for romantic seclusion or quiet nights. Free of the litter and bobbing boats that plague Hat Sai Kaew and Ao Wong Duan, Ao Hin Khok’s white beaches are wide and its waters are good for swimming. Accommodations are plentiful but fill up quickly, so arrive before 3 or 4pm. At the northern end is one of the cheapest accommodations, Naga Bungalows , a Ko Samet backpacker tradition that remains the most popular spot on the island. The plainest bamboo bungalows sit on stilts and provide a classic Ko Samet rest under mosquito nets, while the slightly pricier huts with bath have great tiled porches and are less vulnerable to hungry mosquitoes. The comfortable common space is a great place to swap travelers’ tales. (☎038 644 035, book exchange and library. Internet 8:30am-9pm; 2฿ per min. High-season bungalows with fan 400฿, with bath 800฿; low-season 200-300/400฿.) Its restaurant serves fresh bread, brownies, sundaes, tofu-veggie options, and more. (Dishes 30-250฿. Open daily 8am-10pm.) On-site Naga Bar is a friendly and low-key locale for meeting other travelers, and the pool and beer pong tables make the bar especially popular. Drink specials are rampant on the beach, but here they include “12 chin-ups for a free drink.” Tok’s Little Hut , south of Naga, is another good budget option, providing very basic bungalows with fan and bath. (☎038 644 072. Bungalows 200-500฿ depending on proximity to the beach; with A/C 800-1200฿.) Tok’s bar sits next to Naga Bar and blasts pop music every evening. During Tosser’s Hour, toss a coin and call it: guess correctly and the drink is half price. Newer Jep’s , (☎038 644 112; www.jepbungalow.com) features clean, bright rooms and bungalows with added luxuries, such as extra-large beds and A/C. Its restaurant is one of the best on the beach: colorful hanging stars give this place a magical feel. Check out the barbecue with various types of fish on a stick (60-200฿) and paneer kebabs. (Open daily 9am-10pm. M-F bungalows with A/C 1200฿, Sa-Su 1500฿.)
On Ao Phai, Tutu Bungalows (☎038 644 112; www.tutubungalow.com) sits close to the beach, just over the wooden walkway beyond Silver Sands Resort. Its tidy bungalows, with TV, fridge, and hot water, are a great value, and breakfast is included. (800฿, with A/C 1200฿.) The hillside bungalows at Ao Phai Hut are relatively clean wooden huts with private bath. (☎038 644 075. Huts with fan 600฿, with A/C 1200฿; low-season 500/1000฿.) Share a meal with friends in one of the beachfront restaurants on Ao Phai. Most have low tables on mats where you can recline on cushions and enjoy a wide variety of cuisines by candlelight. Hours are generally 9am-10pm, although a few can be cajoled into whipping up a quick hamburger if you need sustenance on a long night out. The Silver Sands Resort restaurant is a must, not only for its fare (great green curry; 60฿) but also for entertainment including a twirling fire show around 10pm each evening, cheap bucket drinks, and famous as the all-night dance parties.
Ao Phrao. Ko Samet’s only western-facing beach is a smooth, white crescent of sand graced by sky-searing sunsets and some of the island’s most luxurious accommodations and fine dining. If you’re looking for cheap digs, lively backpackers, and beach frisbee, you’re better off staying on the east coast. All but one of Ao Phrao’s resorts include both transfers to Ao Phrao from Ban Phe and the admission fee to Ko Samet park (Lima Coco does not include the park fee). If not staying at these hotels, visitors can still travel directly to Ao Phrao on ferries leaving Ban Phe’s Seree Pier (8, 11am, 1:30, and 4pm; 1-way 100฿) and returning from Ao Phrao (10am, 12:30, 3, and 5pm; 100฿). Lima Coco Resort is a newer establishment that flaunts a funky, modern style. Although not as swanky as its neighbors, Lima Coca provides a great splurge by offering a touch of luxury without the highest price tag. (☎02 938 1811; www.limacoco.com. Breakfast included. Rooms from 3000฿. Low-season discount 10-20%.)
Ao Tub Tim. This small, pretty beach flanked by low rocks is an easy 5min. walk from Ao Phai and a great option for those who want to be close to the action but far from the noise and bustle of Ao Sai Kaew and Ao Phai. Tubtim Resort , on the southern end of the beach, is the one of the best options on the island. The immaculate, stylish thatched bungalows all have private baths, and are far closer to the sea than those at other beaches. (☎038 644 025; www.tubtimresort.com. Smaller doubles with fan and shower from 1000฿, larger doubles with A/C 2000฿.) The restaurant offers an extensive menu of European and Thai options (40-300฿) in a well-designed garden patio.
Ao Nuan. Ao Nuan is an unique and rustic place. The best way to get to this beautiful, secluded spot is to take a taxi ride (30฿ per person) from the Na Dan Pier, or walk through a path in a wooded area from Ao Tub Tim. While not the most stunning of beaches, Ao Nuan offers the rare chance to escape the teeming masses. Behind the rocks that form this tiny beach are rustic Nuan Bungalows , well-kept wooden huts with mattresses on the floor, and mosquito nets hanging from the ceiling. (Shared outdoors showers and toilets. Usually full Nov.-Apr. Huts 700-800฿. No reservations.) Nuan’s restaurant is shielded from the sun by a lush garden and is great for relaxing with a drink after a dip in the warm water (Open 8am-8pm. Dishes 30-200฿).
Ao Cho (Lung Wang). A daily ferry service leaving Tarua Phe Pier in Ban Phe goes directly to (10am and 1pm) and from (9am, noon, and 3pm; 65฿) Ao Cho, a small, secluded, peaceful place with a laid-back feel. The quaint pier on the shore is complemented by a tree swing and flowering bushes on the grounds of the beach’s largest accommodation, Wonderland Resort . The bungalows with fans are far less nice than the newly refurbished ones with A/C, but the beach will tempt you to spend all your time outside anyway. The resort also includes a restaurant . (☎038 644 162; www.lungwang.thie.wthai.com. Laundry. Restaurant open daily 7am-10pm. Snorkel rental 50฿ per day. Motorbike rental 400฿ per day. Banana boats and kayaks 100-200฿ per hr. Doubles with fan 500-900฿, with A/C 1200-2500฿.)
Ao Wong Duan. “Half Moon Bay” is a spacious but mundane beach filled with restaurants, bars, and tour operators. Traffic and congestion make it a noisy place to stay, and the constant roaring of jet skis and ferry departures doesn’t foster an atmosphere for swimming or sunbathing. The Sea Horse Bungalows complex features amenities like motorbike rental (100฿ per hr., 400฿ per day), jet ski rental (1500฿ per 30min.), boat tours, and some of the best beachside dining on the island. (☎038 653 740. High-season doubles with A/C 800-1200฿, low-season 700-900฿; extra person 250฿.) The restaurant serves an impressive range of food. (Dishes 40-100฿. Grilled seafood 200-300฿ or market price. Open daily 8am-1am.) At the far northern end of the beach is the delightful Blue Sky Restaurant , perched on the rocks overlooking the entire beach. Although the bill will be higher than at other restaurants right on the beach, the view is worth a meal here. (Thai food 60-300฿.) Internet access is available in JR Restaurant, at the middle of the beach. (2฿ per min.)
Ao Thian (Candlelight Beach) And Hat Lung Dum. Though these beaches have shorter stretches of sand broken up by longer intervals of rocks, they manage to strike a good balance between seclusion and accessibility, which makes them ideal for those seeking the peace and privacy of their own little cove. To the north, Ao Thian (Candlelight Beach) is a lovely area dotted with a few guesthouses and artsy restaurants that look out over the beach. Stretching out across both Ao Thian and Hat Lung Dum, Lung Dum Bungalow is both remote and mellow, though still popular. The well-priced but plain bungalows have private baths and ocean-facing patios. (☎016 528 056. M-F doubles with fan 600฿, with A/C 1000฿; Sa-Su 800/1000฿.) Lung Dum’s restaurant offers inexpensive sandwiches and Thai food. (Dishes 60-200฿. Open daily 7am-10pm.)
Ao Wai. Despite its lovely beach, Ao Wai’s remote position on the south of the island keeps most budget travelers away from this destination. Samet Ville Resort serves Thai dishes (40-300฿). Snorkeling gear rental is 100฿ per day but only available to guests of the hotel. (Rooms with fan 1380฿, with A/C 1780฿. 100฿ surcharge per person on long weekends. Restaurant open daily 7:30am-9pm.) The resort can arrange for a ferry ride from Ban Phe directly to Ao Wai. Get more info from Koh Kaew Resort in Ban Phe.
Ao Noina. Although its views of the mainland are nowhere near as idyllic as those of the eastern and western beaches, Ao Nonia is secluded and beautiful in its own right. Baan Praguykaew sits on the water a 20min. walk west of Na Dan Pier and offers the simplest accommodations on Ko Samet, catering mostly to Thai youngsters on a tight budget. (☎096 032 609. Tents in yard 200฿; rooms with fan 300฿, with A/C 700฿.)
A thirst for sightseeing can be quenched at the 14m-high Sitting Buddha and smaller Buddha images in the nearby temple. A gate next to the Golden Buddha borders the road between Na Dan Pier and Hat Sai Kaew; follow its path.
Ko Samet boasts a lively nightlife scene on Ao Phai and Ao Hin Khok. The bar at Naga Bungalows battles Tok’s bar next door to attract crowds with nightly promotions. On the weekends, Naga hosts “Fight Nights,” where live Thai boxing shows take place in a ring right in the bar, and afterwards “Fight You For a Bucket” lets you challenge a friend to a fight for a drink. Nearby Silver Sands Resort, at the southern end of Ao Phai, contains a beachside bar that becomes an impromptu disco when crowds are large enough. On weekends in particular the dance floor is packed with a mix of well dressed, fun-loving Thais (both mainlanders and staff from Ko Samet’s restaurants and guesthouses) and a smattering of farang out for a night on the town (or, rather, the beach). The other beaches tend to quiet down when their restaurants close. The bars on Ao Phai are famous for serving drinks by the bucket. These usually consist of the (in)famous local rum mixed with Coke and Red Bull, promising a long night of debauchery along with a long day of aching when the sun rises.
With an abundance of coral reefs and clear water, it’s no wonder that Ko Samet is popular for snorkeling. At Ao Phrao, Ao Kiu, and Ao Wai, reef communities are a 5min. swim from shore. Less-disturbed coral can be found in more remote reaches of the archipelago. Many establishments offer snorkeling tours of Ko Samet and the surrounding islets. There are now several scuba diving operations on the island, so it pays to shop around. Ao Prao Divers, in the lobby of the Ao Prao Resort on Ao Phrao, runs a PADI-certified scuba diving school year-round that makes daytrips around Ko Samet and to Ko Thalu from November to May. (☎038 644 100. Introductory course 3-4hr., 2500฿. 2 dives 2500฿. 4- to 5-day certification course 12,000฿. Specialty and more extensive dives 10,000-13,000฿. Open daily 8am-4pm.) Ploy Scuba Diving (☎038 644 112), on Hat Sai Kaew by Ploy Thalay, offers similar services. (½-day snorkel trips 300฿, full-day 600฿. 2 dives 2500฿. Certification course, 2-4 per day, 8000-12,000฿). Open daily high season 8am-8pm, low season 8am-5pm.)
After a few days and nights of dining on Ko Samet, work off some of that scampi at Naga Muay Thai Boxing Academy (☎038 644 035; www.nagamuaythai.com). Train for a single session (250฿) or try an entire week (4500฿, accommodations included) with champion instructors. Other package lengths can be arranged with the manager, Gary.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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