Often overlooked for more picturesque beach locales farther east, Ko Si Chang is a friendly, laid-back island deserving of a second glance. A tourist boom years back encouraged the residents of this fishing village to spruce up their island with new bungalows and English signs and maps. But as the rest of Southeast Asia opened up, more and more visitors headed to the more spectacular Ko Samet and Ko Chang instead. Accordingly, Ko Si Chang remains a pretty island with good tourist services, friendly locals, and hardly a trace of commercialism. While its eastern ocean views are speckled with huge tankers and barges, beautiful, westward-facing Hat Tampang avoids these altogether.
Ferries to Ko Si Chang depart from Si Racha’s main pier at the end of Jermjompol Rd. (45min., every 1-2hr. 8am-8pm, 50฿). Boats to Si Racha leave from Ta Lang Pier or Ta Bon Pier, depending on the tide (every 1-2hr. 8am-6pm); ask your guesthouse owner to verify the location.
Motorized samlor (a motorcycle-drawn variation unique to Ko Si Chang) go anywhere on the island (20-50฿). The best way to see the island is to hire a tuk-tuk, regular samlor, or motorcycle taxi to take you on an all-inclusive tour (150฿). You can also rent a motorbike at the pier or from Tiew Pai Guest House (250฿ per day). For the nautically inclined, Tiew Pai also arranges boat tours (3-4hr., groups of 10 2500฿) and rents bikes (100฿ per day).
Assadang Road, the main road in town, has two different sections. The first is more or less a circle that frames the north part of the island. Heading right from the two central piers, it passes the post office and Chinese Temple, then loops southward and joins its tail end at Tiew Pai Guest House (see below). The other section of Assadang Rd. intersects with its circular counterpart at Tiew Pai’s, then runs south to Hat Ta Wang and Hat Sai Kaew and branches off at Chakra Pong Road to Hat Tampang, the island’s best beach.
Kasikornbank, 9-9 Assadang Rd., between the piers, exchanges traveler’s checks and has a 24hr. ATM. (☎038 216 132. Open M-F 8:30am-3:30pm.) The local police can be reached at ☎038 216 218. Ko Si Chang’s general hospital (☎038 216 000) is to the right, up Assadang Rd. from the pier, on the left-hand side. Internet access is on Assadang Rd., after the hospital but before the post office, to the right, in a nameless shop. (Printing available. 30฿ per hr.) A 4min. walk from the hospital is the post office, on the right side of Assadang Rd. (☎038 216 227. Open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm.) Postal Code: 20120.
Pricey bungalows line the beach, and camping on the beach is free. You will need to bring your own tent, but decent showers are available at Tampang Beach Resort for 15฿. If you’d like a roof over your head without emptying your pockets, there are a few options.
Taste buds will rejoice on Ko Si Chang, especially at the noodle and rice vendors along Assadang Rd. Ask anyone to point you toward the famous “pad thai lady” for a made-to-order bowl of tasty noodles (20฿).
A tour of Ko Si Chang takes just a few hours by motorbike or samlor (150-200฿). If you’re driving yourself, start at the piers and take a right on Assadang Rd., which winds up and to the right of the Chinese Temple, a 163-step climb from the road. The temple houses a golden image of a Chinese god in a natural cave and has a pavilion with views of the ocean. A long and tiring 400 steps farther lies an enshrined Buddha footprint whose size makes it a good match for the Yellow Buddha on the island’s west side. Once there, descend the back stairs for a solitary walk down the hill, but beware the monkeys lurking in the surrounding trees. When you reach the road, walk for 3min. to the left where you will see the first set of stairs. On the road between the Chinese Temple and Yellow Buddha are the striking Khao Khat Cliffs, where Rama V built a pavilion to enjoy the horizon and write poetry. The view from the king’s seat is stunning and affords views of both the sunrise and sunset. Below the cliffs is a long bridge leading to a path twisting down to the water; sunset here is an awe-inspiring sight.
At the very far end of the second section of Assadang Rd., near the two eastern beaches and past the turn-off for Tampang Beach, are the ruins of King Rama V’s summer palace. The last economic crisis halted the restoration of this royal residence, but you can stroll around the royal grounds and see pagodas, reservoirs, and European-influenced buildings, while enjoying views of the sea and forests. To get there, continue south on Assadang Rd. through the gate of the Marine Research Institute. Hat Tampang, Ko Si Chang’s most swimmable beach, is found by turning off of Assadang Rd. at the sign for Chakra Pong Rd. After climbing over a hill, make a right on Chalerm Prakariat Rd. A number of beachfront restaurants rent out beach chairs (20฿) and serve food and beverages. Kayaks, snorkels, and floating tubes are available for rent (40-100฿).
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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