Prague (Praha) Staré Město (Old Town)

Navigating the 1000-year-old Staré Město—a jumble of narrow streets and alleys—can be difficult. Once the sun sets, the ancient labyrinth comes alive with the city’s youth, who enliven its many bars and jazz clubs.

Church of Our Lady before Týn, Staroměstské náměstí (tynska.farnost.cz), Our Lady Before Týn dominates the skyline of Old Town Square with two enormous spires sticking out among the surrounding Baroque buildings. Dating back to the 14th century, the church has seen some bizzare happenings and accumulated some colorful residents in its time. For instance, the church contains the remains of the astronomer Tycho Brahe, whose notable achievements include helping to describe planetary motion and peeing himself to death or, more accurately, “unpeeing” himself to death. In 1601, Brahe was at Emperor Rudolf's for dinner, and since it was taboo to leave the table before the Emperor did, Tycho just held it until his bladder burst. But on the bright side, he kept decorum. The church's towers reach a staggering 80m into the air; in traditional Gothic style, one of the spires is just a bit smaller than the other. The church's exterior construction is expected to be finished in 2011. A: Staroměstká. Just walk towards the giant twin towers. Free. Open Tu-Sa 10am-1pm, 3pm-5pm. Su Mass 9:30am and 9pm. No wheelchair access.

Charles Bridge, Probably the most famous site in all of Prague, the Charles Bridge is also the bridge Mr. Phelps falls from in the brilliant movie with mediocre sequels, Mission Impossible. Charles IV commissioned the bridge to cross the Vltava River in 1357—if you haven't figured it out already, Charles IV is responsible for everything cool in Prague—but the actual design and construction of the crossing was done by the famous architect Peter Parléř. Although the bridge was originally decorated only by a crucifix, the church commissioned 32 statutes for the bridge between 1600 and 1800, featuring shady characters like St. Augustine, St. Anne, and Lamenting Christ. Weather damage forced the city to remove the original statues, which are now on display at the National Gallery. The bridge also features the Old Town Bridge Tower (Staroměstská mostecká věž), which offers an Ethan Hunt's eye view of the city below. Cross the bridge after sundown for an especially titillati A: Malonstranská or Staroměstká. Tower 70 Kč, students 50 Kč. Open daily Nov-Feb 10am-8pm, Mar-Oct 10am-10pm. Wheelchair access.

Astronomical Clock Tower and Old Town Hall, Old Town Square 1/3 (☎724 911 556; www.prazskeveze.cz/staromestska-radnice-a-vez.html), Here's a free lesson: if you build an amazing clock that tells the position of the sun, the moon, and the planets, people will never stop fabricating legends about it. It's said that after the city council hired the famous clockmaker Mikulas of Kadan to build the clock, they gouged out his eyes so he could never repeat his work (talk about worker's comp issues). In reality, the clock was a collaboration between Kadan and Jan Ondrejuv, a professor of mathematics and astronomy, and Kadan built several clocks after this one. The clock also features another clock that moves once a day and has 365 names on it; Czech tradition “requires” parents to name their children one of said names. The day on which the clock points to your name is your “name day,” a kind of bastardized birthday. On the hour, the 12 apostles poke their heads out to the crowd, and a rooster crows. Climb or take the elevator to the top of the tower for amazing views of the city. Also available is a not-that-worth-it tour o A: Staroměstká or A or B: Mustek. Halls 100 Kč, students 80 Kč. Tower 100 Kč, students 50 Kč. Halls open M 11am-6pm, Tu-Su 9-6pm (last tour starts at 5). Towers open M 11am-10pm, Tu-Su 9am-10pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.

St. Nicholas's Church, Parízská Str (☎224 190 994), St. Nicholas might not be one of the “cool cathedrals” that gets slapped on the cover of every guide book, but the chandelier hanging in its center might be the coolest in the city. Given as a gift to Prague in 1787 by Tsar Nicholas II, this crown is an enormous replica of the royal hat that Russian czars wore. The church contains a succinct but impressive exhibit on the history of the church and of Czech Christianity in general. The church was under the control of Benedictine monks for most of its existence, and a plaque on the former Benedectine monastery attached to the building marks the site where Franz Kafka was born. A: Staroměstká. A or B: Mustek. Directly behind the Astronomical Clock Tower. Free. Open M noon-4pm, Tu-Sa 10am-4pm. Su Mass 10:30am, noon, and 3pm.

Municipal House, Naměstí Republiky 5 (☎222 002 101; obecnidum.cz), It might feel a little uncomfortable to get really excited about a state house and a concert hall, but if you visit the Municipal House, this is what will happen to you. Just go with it. Designed in 1911 by Antonin Balšánek and Osvald Polívka in classic Art Nouveau style, this publicly-commissioned state house features specifically-comissionend works from over 20 of the country's top artists. Every detail, from the shape of the door handles to the doors themselves to the patterns on the banisters, are the careful work of some art Noveau master. Daily guided tours take visitors through Smetana Hall, where the Czech Philharmonic plays, and the Mayor's Hall, decorated by the Czech painter, Alfons Mucha. For a trip to the past, stop by Kavárna Obecní Dům located on the ground floor. This incredible Art Noveau cafe features an oh-so-classic fountain by Josef Pekárek and eight enormous chandeliers hanging overhead. B: Naměstí Republiky. Walk across the square; Municipal House is the gigantic building on your left. Tours in Czech and English. Tickets must be purchased on the day of your visit in the ticket office located in the basement of the Municipal House. 270Kč, students 220Kč. Open daily 10am-7pm. Tour times vary by week and month; check the calendar for details. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.

The Black Madonna House/Kubista Museum, Ovocný trh 19 (☎222 321 459; www.ngprague.cz), The Black Madonna House is the best living example of Cubist architecture—a uniquely Bohemian trend that tried to extract the rules of Cubism into the third dimension. Designed by Gočar, one of 3D Cubism's godfathers, the building now contains a gallery and permanent exhibit analyzing this Bohemian movement. While the exhibit's paintings deliver the whacked-out perspective we expect from cubist masters, what's more bizarre is the Cubist furniture. Chairs, cabinets, and armoires out of an M.C. Escher painting will make you lament that this genuinely awesome movement never became mainstream. Finally, check out the fully-restored “Cubist Cafe” located on the second floor of the building, and if you've got a rich uncle, check out the Kubista Museum store downstairs to pick up some replicas of Cubist jewelry and furniture. B: Naměstí Republiky. Walk south through Naměstí Republiky and through Powder Gate, then continue west down Celetná, the museum is right at the fork in the road. 100Kč, after 4pm 50Kč. Students 50Kč/30Kč. 1st W of every month free. Tu-Su 10am-6pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has air conditioning.

Powder Gate, Na Příkopě (www.prazskeveze.cz/prasna-brana.html), Six hundred years ago, Horská brán, or “Mountain Tower,” which once stood on this site, actually served a purpose: it protected the city from bad guys and marked the starting point of royal corronation ceremonies. When New Town become a part of the city proper, the tower lost its function and they tore it down to built Powder Gate, an essentially cosmetic and purely symbolic monument. While the tower served as a gundpowder storage center for awhile, now it just kind of chills and lets cars tickle its belly as they drive under it. Climb up to the top for a view of the city and a small rotating exhibition. B: Naměstí Republicky. From the Metro, walk south down naměstí Republicky. It's the giant tower in front of you. 70Kč, students 15Kč. Open daily Mar and Oct 10am-8pm, Nov-Feb 10am-6pm, Apr-Sept 10am-10pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.

Estates Theater, Ovocný trh 1, Praha 1, 110 00 (www.estatestheatre.cz), The Estates Theater, the legendary stage were Mozart “premiered” Don Giovonni in 1787, now has a haunting statue out front commemorating the event. Just one problem: the opera premiered—and bombed—in Vienna. Prague was the back-up premiere. To make a long story short, Prague loved it and it's one of the greatest operas ever written. The film Amadeus features a scene with Mozart directing inside the Estates Theater. Popular ballets, dramas, and operas, including Don Giovonni, still play nightly in the Estates, and since the theater offers no public tours, the moderate ticket price is definitely worth the experience. A or B: Můstek. From the station, head towards Old Town down Na Můstku and take the second right at Rytíšká. The theater and box office will be ahead on your right. Tickets 100-1200 Kč. Performances at 7pm unless otherwise listed. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.

St. James Cathedral, Malá Štupartsá 6, Old Town According to legend, a thief once tried to steal a necklace from a Virgin Mary statue in Saint James. Well, as you can imagine, the statue came to life, grabbed the thief's arm, and refused to let go. Anyway, he had to cut his arm off and to this day, a mummified arm still hangs in the church. But this church doesn't need legends to be exciting, because you know what else is exciting? Eleven murals painted on the church ceiling, which are seriously cool. In fact, the entirety of the church is intricately decorated. No kidding, it's beautiful. And finally, here's a true story. When Count Vratislav died, he was placed in one of the most beautiful tombs in all of Prague. But for days after he was buried, terrible noises kept coming from the tomb. Finally the noises stopped when the priests sprinkled holy water on the tomb. Years later, the tomb was opened and scratch marks were found on the inside; this is why you always check that someone's dead before burying him. This church is not to From starostka naměstí, take Týnska east, continuing straight through the courtyards as it turns into Týn. The courtyard lets out at Malá Štupartsá where you should take a left. Free. Open M-Th and Sa-Su 9:30am-noon and 2-4pm; F 9:30am-noon and 2pm-3:30pm. Su Mass 8:30am and 10:30am. No wheelchair access.