Prague (Praha) Nové Město (New Town)

Established in 1348 by Charles IV, Nové Město has become Prague’s commercial center. The Franciscan Gardens offer an oasis from the bustling businesses.

Saint Henry Tower, Jindřišské ulice, Praha 1 (☎22 223 2429; www.jindrisskavez.cz), Originally built from wood in 1475, then again from stone in 1599, the 67.7m tower was designed as a belfry for the nearby Saint Henry's Church. At one time 10 bells rang out from the tower, but neglect and damage over the years has left just one. The remaining 723kg, 101cm diameter bell rings on the hour and half hour. In recent years, the middle portions of the tower have been ingeniously returned to public use as a restaurant, museum, whiskey bar, and several galleries. Admission gets you into the museum and galleries, but it's worth taking the stairs to peek at the tiny restaurant's tables, which are built around the tower's scaffolding system. A or B: Můstek: follow Jindřišské to the end of the street. Elevator access to all but the last 14 steps. Adult 80Kč. Student 55Kč. Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-7pm. Wheelchair access.

New Town Hall, Karlovo náměstí 1/23, 120 00 Praha 2 (☎22 494 8225; www.nrpraha.cz), A building whose history far outsexes its architecture, the New Town Hall served as the administrative headquarters of New Town for nearly 400 years. The Hall's foundations were laid by Charles IV, the granddaddy of Czech modernity. In 1419, a bunch of angry Hussites threw the town counselors out the top story windows in the first Defenestration. While the hall has a few furnished parlors open for viewing, the building's real thrill comes in climbing the seemingly endless series of wooden platforms leading to the lookout tower. Besides the amazing views of of Prague, the top platforms hold a giant bell, which was described as being “currently broken.” It was later discovered that this meant it had been broken for the past 200 years. B: Karlovo náměstí. Exit the station and find the giant tower at the north end of the park. Admission 30Kč. Cash only. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.

Wenceslas Square, Originally built by its namesake as a horse market, Václavské náměstí (Wenceslas Square) now sells everything but. American-style commercial department stores and historic hotels compete for attention with the true stars of the walk—the hot dog and sauerkraut vendors selling up to six different types of sausage. In the olden days, butchers would come selling their wares, and that tradition of sausage excellence has held to the present. Up at the top of the boulevard, check out the T National Museum, which in addition to being one of the more beautiful buildings in Prague—especially at night—also contains some impressive zoological and paleological exhibits, mostly in Czech. Also noteworthy are the displayed medals of former president Václav Havel. A or B: Můstek or Můsem. Students 100-150Kč. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol.

Alfons Mucha Museum, Panská 7, 110 00 Praha (☎22 421 6415; www.mucha.cz), This medium-sized exhibit focuses on Mucha's works, and is a good introduction for those unfamiliar with the Art Nouveau pioneer and all-around Czech hero. The exhibit pays particular attention to Mucha's time in Paris (1887-1904) during which he painted the famous portraits of Sarah Bernhardt that Americans will likely recognize. For the student price, anyone even remotely interested should check it out. Without the student discount, pre-existing appreciation for Mucha is recommended. Don't miss the hilariously over-the-top video about Mucha's construction of the “Slav Epic.” A or B: Můstek. Walk up Václavské náměstí toward the St. Wenceslas statue. Go left on Jindřišské and left again on Panská. Admission 160Kč. Students and seniors 80Kč. Guide sheet 30Kč. Open daily 10am-6pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.

Our Lady of the Snow, Jungmannovo náměstí 18, 110 00 Praha 1 Kostel Panny Marie Sněžně (Our Lady of the Snow) remains one of the most oddly-shaped churches in Central Europe. When commissioned by Charles IV in 1347, the church was intended to be the largest in Prague, with three naves and 30m tall ceilings. When the Franciscans arrived to repair the building in 1603, damage from the Hussite Wars prevented them from carrying out the original plan, and only one nave remained along with the impressively large ceilings. Check the chapel door for a schedule of services in order to listen in on incredible organ music against the sweet the voices of the regular parishioners. While you listen to the music, let yourself wonder how they painted such intricate stars on the ceiling. Don't go without checking the miniature chapel on the church's right side, and the exhibits from local artists displayed in the abbey. A or B: Můstek. From the station, walk up Wenceslas Sq. and then turn left on Jungmannovo náměstí; the entrance to the church is behind the statue. Open daily 6am-7:30pm. Su services at 9am, 10:15am, 11:30am and 6:30pm. Wheelchair access.

U Flecků, Křemencova 11, 110 00 Praha 1 (☎22 49 340 1920; www.efleku.eu), Skip the tacky, overpriced restaurant if you can help it, and take a guided walk of the museum or an hour-long tour of the brewery. Both are obnoxiously designed to convince guests how important the U Flecků Brewery actually is, but the over-aggrandized tales and obsession over uninteresting U Flecků details more persuasively argue the opposite. Still, it's worth visiting if you want to see old brewing techniques without trecking out to to the brewery at Pilsen. B: Národní trida. From the station, walk south on Spálená, make a right on Myslíkova, and then another right on Opatovická. Follow it as it cuves around. When it hits Křemencova, take the second left. Museum tour 100Kč. Brewery tour 160 Kč. Groups of 10 or more get a 30% discount. Credit cards discouraged, and no discounts will apply if used. Tours available by reservation only M-F 10am-4pm. Sa and Su tours must be accompanied by a meal at the restaurant. Restaurant open daily 9am-11pm. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.

Franciscan Gardens, A beautiful couple of acres of land, this little oasis between Our Lady of the Snow and the bustling St. Wenceslas square offers a serene escape from the howl of the city. Massive strange light-bulb-like street lamps line the walk, but unfortunately the park closes before we can ever see them in their full glory. Street performers grab spaces in the shade. The picturesque cottage in the middle of the roses is actually a secondhand clothing store, but don't let that stop you from appreciating its tranquility. A or B: Můstek. Enter through the arch to the left of Jungmannova and Národní, behind the statue. Open daily dawn-dusk. Wheelchair access.

University of Charles Botanical Gardens, Na Slupi 16, 120 00 Praha 2 (web.natur.cuni.cz/www/en/data/faculty/botanicalgarden.html), Adding greenery to the Charles University campus since 1898, the Charles University Botanical Gardens contain thousands of species of plants in a several acre garden and accompanying green house. The Garden isn't free but some patrons report not being charged admission. Rotating exhibits roll through the greenhouse regularly, but the garden is best enjoyed by just laying out in the sun. Among the plants in the garden is the giant water lily, Victoria cruziana, whose beautiful summer flowers last for only a single day. B: Karlovo náměstí. From the Metro, follow Vyšehradská south until it becomes Na Slupi. Adults 50Kč; students 25Kč. Open Feb-Mar 10am-5pm, Apr-Aug 10am-7:30pm, Sept-Oct 10am-6pm, Nov-Jan 10am-4pm. Greenhouses close 1hr. before close. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.

Dancing House, Rasinovo Nabrezi 80 120 00 Praha 2 Now approaching its 15th birthday, the Tančící dům (Dancing House) has comfortably become a national icon after being the source of fierce controversy during its inception and construction. Designed by Vlado Milunic and Frank Gehry (of Guggenheim-Bilbao fame), the eight-story office building allegedly resembles an image of Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers, earning it the early moniker “Fred and Ginger.” The building was known as “Drunken House” for years by Czech traditionalists who felt that it had no place amid the neo-Baroque and Art Noveau architecture of the neighborhood. Through the help of supporters like Václav Havel, however, the building has become one of Prague's most recognizable landmarks. While the top floor is occupied by Céleste, one of Prague's top French restaurants (entrées 450-900Kč), budget travelers can visit the upstairs patio M-Sa 4-6pm for the price of a drink (150-200Kč). B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, walk down Resslova toward the river. The building is on your left.

Emauzy, Vyšehradská 49/320, Prague 2 (www.emauzy.cz/en/index.php), Walking through the poorly-maintained cloister of Emauzy is a haunting experience. This cloister, which once served as abode to Jan Hus, the theological martyr and revolutionary, and Johannes Kepler, that dude who explained planetary motion, now sits silent. A train museum for children now occupies part of the old abbey, and the frighteningly empty chapel can be toured for the price of a train admission. B: Karlovo náměstí. From the park, follow the brown signs to the monastery down Vyšehradská. 50kč. Mass daily 10am. Open M-F 11am-3pm. Wheelchair access.

Church of Saint Ignatius, Ječná 2, 120 00 Praha 2 (☎221 990 200; www.jesuit.cz), This Jesuit church is one of the oldest Baroque buildings in Prague and is the third largest Jesuit complex in all of Europe. Built in the second half of the 17th century, this amazing chapel stands out for its brilliant slabs of green, red and yellow marble. The sculpture work on the altar was done by Matěj Václav Jäckel, who is best known for his work on the statues on the Charles Bridge. The figure of St. Ignatius on the church peak was considered semi-heretical in its day, as clerical rules stated that a full-body halo could only be administered to Christ himself. B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, head away from the river toward Ječná. The church will be on the corner. Open daily 6:15am-5:30pm. Daily mass 5:30pm.