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Iceland Essentials

  • Official Name: Republic of Iceland.
  • Capital: Reykjavík.
  • Major Cities: Akureyri, Ísafjörður, Kópavogur, Hafnarfjörður.
  • Population: 302,000.
  • Time Zone: GMT.
  • Language: Icelandic.
  • Percentage Of Arable Land: 0.07%.
  • Export Earnings Provided By The Fishing Industry: 70%.

When To Go

Visitors should brave peak-season crowds to enjoy all Iceland has to offer. From June through August, travelers will have the most accommodation and transportation options. The sky never quite gets dark in summer months, though the sun dips below the horizon for a few hours each night. July temperatures average around 11˚C (52˚F). December and January receive four or five hours of sunlight daily, but the nights are illuminated by aurora borealis, the famous Northern Lights. Winter in Reykjavík averages 0˚C (32˚F), making transportation slower and less reliable.

  • Burning The Midnight Oil. During the summer months, the sun never quite sets over Iceland. While the near 24hr. sunlight makes for easy all-night partying, it can take its toll on visitors. Bring a sleeping mask and over-the-counter, non-habit-forming sleep aids to avoid sleepless nights.

Documents And Formalities

Embassies And Consulates. Foreign embassies in Iceland are in Reykjavík. Icelandic embassies and consulates abroad include: Australia, 16 Hann St., Griffith, Canberra (☎262 95 68 19; benefitfarm@bigpond.com.au); Canada, 360 Albert St., Ste. 710, Ottawa, ON K1R 7X7 (☎613-482-1944; www.iceland.org/ca); Ireland, Cavendish House, Smithfield, Dublin (☎1 872 9299; jgg@goregrimes.ie); New Zealand, Sanford Ltd., 22 Jellicoe St., Auckland (☎9 379 4720); UK, 2A Hans St., London SW1X 0JE (☎020 72 59 39 99; www.iceland.org/uk); US, 1156 15th St. NW, Ste. 1200, Washington, D.C. 20005 (☎202-265-6653; www.iceland.org/us).

Visa And Entry Information. EU citizens do not need a visa. Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and the US do not need a visa for stays of up to 90 days, beginning upon entry into any of the countries in the EU’s freedom-of-movement zone. For more info, see. For stays longer than 90 days, all non-EU citizens need visas, available at embassies abroad; check www.utl.is/english/visas/apply to find the nearest location.

Tourist Services And Money

Money. Iceland’s unit of currency is the króna (ISK), plural krónur. One króna is equal to 100 aurars, with standard denominations of 1, 5, 10, 50, and 100kr in coins, and 500, 1000, and 5000kr in notes. For currency exchange, ATMs are located throughout the larger cities. Banks are usually open M-F 9:15am-4pm. Major Icelandic banks, such as Landsbankinn, do not have sister banks in other countries that allow lower exchange fees. In general, there’s no way around the high costs in Iceland. On average, a night in a hostel will cost 1700ISK, a guesthouse 3000-4000ISK, and a meal’s worth of groceries 700-1200ISK. Restaurants include a service charge on the bill. Tipping is discouraged.

Iceland has a 24.5% value added tax (VAT), a sales tax on goods and services purchased within the European Economic Area (EEA: the EU plus Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway). The prices given in Let’s Go include VAT. In the airport upon exiting the EEA, non-EEA citizens can claim a refund on the tax paid for goods at participating stores. In order to qualify for a refund in a store, you must spend at least 4000ISK; make sure to ask for a refund form when you pay. For more info on qualifying for a VAT refund, see.

Transportation

By Plane. Iceland’s main international airport is Keflavik International Airport ( KEF; ☎ 425 6000; www.keflavikairport.com), which is 50km southwest of Reykjavík. Icelandair (Iceland ☎505 0700, UK 0870 787 4020, US and Canada 800-223-5500; www.icelandair.net) flies to Reykjavík year-round from Europe and the US. They also provide free stop-overs of up to seven days on flights to many European cities. No-frills Iceland Express (Iceland ☎550 0600, UK 0870 240 5600; www.icelandexpress.com) flies to nine Western European countries on the cheap. Icelandair’s domestic counterpart, Air Iceland (☎570 3030; www.airiceland.is), flies from Reykjavík to most major towns in Iceland and Greenland.

  • Soaring Prices. To get the most for your money, consider traveling by plane instead of bus. Discount airfare is often just as expensive, or cheaper, than terrestrial tickets. Check with Air Iceland for more info.

By Bus. Several bus lines are organized by Bifreiðastöð Íslands ( BSÍ; www.bsi.is); buses can be cheaper and more scenic than flights, although they run infrequently in the low-season. From mid-June to August, buses run daily on the Ring Road (Route 1), the highway that circles Iceland. Even then the going is slow; some unpaved stretches still exist in the east. The Full Circle Passport lets travelers circle the island at their own pace on the Ring Road (June-Aug.; 25,900ISK). However, it only allows travel in one direction, so travelers must move either clockwise or counter-clockwise around the country to get back to where they started. For an extra 19,200ISK, the pass provides access to the Westfjords in the extreme northwest. The Omnibus Passport is valid for periods of up to four weeks for unlimited travel on all scheduled bus routes, including non-Ring roads (1-week 26,900ISK, 2-week 42,000ISK, 3-week 50,000ISK; valid May 15-Sept. 15). Travelers, especially those arriving in groups of two or more, should note that the inflexibility of the Full Circle Passport and the high cost of the Omnibus Passport make car rental a good idea for those planning on visiting rural parts of the country. Iceland has no intercity train service.

By Ferry. The best way to see Iceland’s gorgeous shoreline is on the Norröna ferry (☎983 5900; www.smyril-line.fo, website in Icelandic) that crosses the North Atlantic to Hanstholm, DEN; Tórshavn in the Faroe Islands; and Seyðisfjörður. From Tórshavn, you can either continue on to Bergen, NOR, or return to Seyðisfjörður. An Eimskip Transport liner leaves Reykjavík weekly and takes five days to get to continental ports at Thorshavn, Rotterdam, Hamburg, Fredrikstad, and Århus. (Reservations ☎525 7800; www.eimskip.com.)

By Car. Rental cars provide the most freedom for travelers and may even be the cheapest option for those who want to visit rural areas. Getting a car and touring Iceland’s Ring Road (Rte. 1), which circles the entire island and passes many of the best destinations, is a popular way to explore the country. Book before you arrive for lower rates. Car rental (bílaleiga) companies charge 4000-8000ISK per day for a small car, and 10,000-25,000ISK for the four-wheel-drive vehicles that are imperative outside settled areas. On these routes, drivers should bring a container of extra gas, since some roads continue for 300km without a single gas station and strong headwinds can significantly affect the rate of fuel consumption. It is not uncommon for local drivers to ford streams in their vehicles; do not attempt this in a compact car, and cross in a convoy if possible. (24hr. reports on road conditions ☎800 6316, June-Aug. in English.) Drivers are required to wear seat belts and to keep their headlights on at all times. Iceland recognizes foreign driver’s licenses, but you may need to purchase insurance for the rental vehicle (1500-3500ISK).

By Bike And By Thumb. Ferocious winds, driving rain, and gravel roads make long-distance cycling difficult. Hug the Ring Road if you prefer company; for less-traveled paths, branch out to the coastal roads that snake their way through the Eastfjords, or check Cycling in Iceland (http://home.wanadoo.nl/erens/icecycle.htm">http://home.wanadoo.nl/erens/icecycle.htm">http://home.wanadoo.nl/erens/icecycle.htm). Also check out the Icelandic Mountain Bike Club, Brekkustíg. 2, in Reykjavík, or drop by their clubhouse on the first Thursday night of each month after 8pm for some advice (☎562 0099; www.fjallahjolaklubburinn.is). Buses will carry bikes for a 500-900ISK fee, depending on the route. Hitchhikers try the roads in summer, but sparse traffic and harsh weather exacerbate the risks. Still, rides can be found with relative ease between Reykjavík and Akureyri; flagging down a ride is harder in the east and the south. Let’s Go does not recommend hitchhiking.

Keeping In Touch

Email And Internet. Internet is widespread. Seek out libraries in small towns for Internet. At cafes, a connection will cost 200-300ISK per hour.

Telephone. The state-owned telephone company, Síminn, usually has offices in post offices, where you can buy phone cards and get the best international call rates. Pay phones accept prepaid phone cards, credit cards (cheapest for calls to mobile phones ), as well as 10ISK, 50ISK, and 100ISK coins. Iceland uses two different mobile phone networks: digital GSM phones service 98% of the country’s population, but only a small fraction of its land area, so hikers, fishermen, and others who travel outside of settled areas rely on analog NMT phones. Prepaid GSM phone cards are available at gas stations and convenience stores. OG Vodafone generally offers the best prepaid rates. For operator assistance, dial ☎118; for international assistance, dial ☎1811. International direct dial numbers include: AT&T Direct (☎800 222 55 288); British Telecom (☎800 89 0354); Canada Direct (☎800 9010); Telecom New Zealand (☎800 9064).

Mail. Mailing a letter or postcard (up to 20g) from Iceland costs from 60ISK within Iceland, from 70ISK to Europe, and from 80ISK outside of Europe. Post offices (póstur) are generally open M-F 9am-6pm in Reykjavík and 9am-4:30pm in the countryside. Check www.postur.is for additional info. To receive mail in Iceland, have mail delivered Poste Restante. Mail will go to the main post office unless you specify a subsidiary by street address. Address mail to be held according to the following example (Reykjavík): First name, Last name, Poste Restante, ÍSLANDSPÓSTUR, Posthússtr. 5, 101 Reykjavík, ICELAND.

Language. Icelandic is a Nordic language which developed in 9th-century Norway and came into its present form in 12th-century Iceland. It is a very pure form of the old Norwegian language of the vikings. Most Icelanders, especially those under 35, speak at least some English.

Accommodations And Camping

Iceland’s HI youth hostels are clean and reasonably priced at roughly 1800-2300ISK for nonmembers. HI members receive a 150-400ISK discount. Visit Hostelling International Iceland, Sundlaugarvegur 34, 105 Reykjavík (☎553 8110; www.hostel.is), for locations and pricing as well as for info on Iceland’s seven eco-friendly Green Hostels. Expect to pay around 2100ISK for sleeping bag accommodations ( svefnpokapláss; beds with no linens or blankets) and another 650ISK for linens. Guesthouses and farmhouses (☎570 2700; www.farmholidays.is) are a cheap, homey option outside cities. Many remote lodgings will pick up tourists in the nearest town for a small fee. Campers can choose among Iceland’s 125 designated campsites (usually open June-Aug.). Camping outside official sites is prohibited. Official campsites range from grassy areas with cold-water taps to sumptuous facilities around Reykjavík; listings can be found at www.camping.is. Most charge around 600-800ISK, and many don’t allow open flames (so be sure to bring a camp stove). Visit www.infoiceland.is/infoiceland/accommodation/camping for tips.

Food And Drink

Iceland is in the middle of a culinary explosion. A history of food shortages led Iceland to value all that was pickled, dried, or smoked. But now, with more exotic methods and flavors introduced by a trickle of Asian immigrants, not everything is simply boiled and salted. Fresh fish and gamey free-range lamb —staples of Icelandic cuisine—remain essentials. But they’re being mixed in new and delicious ways with vitamin-rich vegetables grown in greenhouse towns (such as Hveragerði) and a range of cheeses. Still, tradition is strong: skyr, a dairy product that tastes like a cross between yogurt and fresh cheese, and hangikjot, smoked lamb sandwiches, are more popular than ever. Food in Iceland is very expensive, and a cheap restaurant meal will cost at least 800ISK. Grocery stores are the way to go in virtually every town. Alcohol presents the same quandary: beer costs 500-600ISK for a large glass (0.5L, approx. 17 oz.) at pubs and cafes, while the price of hard liquor is even steeper. The country’s national drink is brennivín, a schnapps made from potato, usually seasoned with caraway, and nicknamed “Black Death.” Bootleggers in the countryside cook up batches of landi, a potent homemade moonshine, in protest against high liquor taxes. Let’s Go does not recommend moonshine.

Holidays And Festivals

  • Holidays: New Year’s Day (Jan. 1); Maundy Thursday (Apr. 9, 2009; Apr. 1, 2010); Good Friday (Apr. 10, 2009; Apr. 2, 2010); Easter (Apr. 12, 2009; Apr. 4, 2010); Sumardagurinn Fyrsti (1st day of summer; Apr. 24); Ascension (May 1); Pentecost (May 31, 2009; May 23, 2010); National Day (June 17); Tradesman’s Day (Aug. 4); Christmas (Dec. 25); Boxing Day (Dec. 26).
  • Festivals: The month-long Þorrablót festival (during Feb.) is a holdover from the midwinter feasts of past centuries. Icelanders eat svi (singed and boiled sheep’s head), hrútspungur (pickled ram’s testicles), and hákarl (shark meat that has been allowed to rot underground) in commemoration of their heritage. “Beer Day,” celebrated in bars and restaurants, celebrates the March 1st, 1989 lifting of a 75yr. prohibition. Sumardagurinn Fyrsti marks the 1st day of summer with a carnival. The Reykjanes Peninsula celebrates Sjómannadagur (Seamen’s Day) on June 4 with boat races and tug-of-war. During the 1st weekend in August, Icelanders head to the country for Verslunarmannahelgi for barbecues, camping, and drinking.



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