It may be wise to plan around the peak season (June-Aug.). Fall and spring (Sept.-Oct. and Apr.-May) are more appealing times to visit, since the weather is mild and flights are cheaper. If you intend to visit the large cities and linger indoors at museums and theaters, the bitter winter (Nov.-Mar.) is most economical. Keep in mind, however, that some sights and accommodations close or run reduced hours. Another factor to consider is the number of hours of daylight—in St. Petersburg, summer light lasts almost to midnight, but in winter the sun sets at around 3:45pm.
Embassies And Consulates. Foreign embassies are in Moscow ; consulates are in St. Petersburg . Russian embassies abroad include: Australia, 78 Canberra Ave., Griffith, ACT 2603 (☎662 959 033; www.australia.mid.ru); Canada, 285 Charlotte St., Ottawa, ON K1N 8L5 (☎613-235-4341; www.rusembcanada.mid.ru); Ireland, 184-186 Orwell Rd., Rathgar, Dublin 14 (☎14 92 20 48; www.ireland.mid.ru); New Zealand, 57 Messines Rd., Karori, Wellington (☎44 76 61 13, visas 476 9548; www.russianembassy.co.nz); UK, 6/7 Kensington Palace Gardens, London W8 4QP (☎20 72 29 64 12), visa 229 8027; www.great-britain.mid.ru); US, 2650 Wisconsin Ave., NW, Washington, D.C. 20007 (☎202-298-5700; www.russianembassy.org).
Visa And Entry Information. Almost every visitor to Russia needs a visa. The standard tourist visa is valid for 30 days, while a business visa is valid for up to three months. Both come in single-entry and double-entry varieties. All applications for Russian visas require an invitation stating dates of travel. If you have an invitation from an authorized travel agency or Russian organization and want to get a visa on your own, apply for the visa in person or by mail at a Russian embassy or consulate. For same-day processing you must apply in person. Download an application form at www.ruscon.org. (Single-entry visas US$131-300; double-entry US$131-350, except on 10-day processing; multiple-entry US$131-450. Prices change constantly, so check with the embassy) Visa services and travel agencies can also provide visa invitations (US$30-80), as well as secure visas in a matter of days (from US$160). Some agencies can obtain visas overnight (up to US$450-700). Host Families Association (www.hofa.ru), arranges homestays, meals, and transport. Visa invitations for Russia, Ukraine, and Belarus cost US$30-40; www.travelcentre.com.au provides invitations to Russia, sells rail tickets, and arranges tours. VISAtoRUSSIA.com, 2502 North Clark Street, Suite 216, Chicago, IL 60614, USA (☎800-339-2118, in Europe ☎749 59 56 44 22), provides invitations from US$30. Students and employees may be able to obtain student visas from their school or host organization.
The best way to cross the border is to fly directly into Moscow or St. Petersburg. Another option is to take a train or bus into one of the major cities. Expect delays and red tape. Upon arrival, travelers must fill out an immigration card (part of which must be kept until departure from Russia) and to register their visa within three working days. Registration can be done at your hostel or hotel, or for a fee at a travel agency. As a last resort, head to the central OVIR (ОВИ) office to register. Do not skip this nuisance, as taking care of it will leave one less thing for bribe-seeking authorities to hassle you about—fines for visa non-registration run about US$150. When in Russia, carry your passport at all times; give it to no one except hotel or OVIR staff during registration.
Tourist Offices. There are two types of Russian tourist offices—those that only arrange tours and those that offer general travel assistance. Offices of the former type are often unhelpful with general questions, but general information offices are usually eager to assist, particularly with visa registration. Big hotels often house tourist agencies with English-speaking staff. The most accurate maps are sold by street kiosks. A great web resource is www.waytorussia.net.
Money. The Russian unit of currency is the рубль (ruble; R), plural рубли (ru-BLEE). One ruble is equal to 100 копейки (kopecks; k), singular копейка, which comes in denominations of 1, 5, 10 and 50. Rubles have banknote denominations of 5, 10, 50, 100, 500, and 1000 and coin denominations of 1, 2, and 5. Government regulations require that you show your passport when you exchange money. Find an Обмен Валта (Obmen Valyuta), hand over your currency—most will only exchange US dollars and euro—and receive your rubles. Inflation runs around 12%. Do not exchange money on the street. Banks offer the best combination of good rates and security. ATMs (банкоматы; bankomaty) linked to major networks can be found in most cities. Banks, large restaurants, and currency exchanges often accept major credit cards, especially Visa. Main branches of banks will usually accept traveler’s checks and give cash advances on credit cards. It’s wise to keep a small amount of money (US$20 or less) on hand. Most establishments don’t accept torn, written-on, or crumpled bills, and old bills are often declined. Keep in mind, however, that establishments that display prices in dollars or euro also tend to be much more expensive.
In a medical emergency, either leave the country or go to the American or European Medical Centers in Moscow or St. Petersburg; these clinics have English-speaking, Western doctors. Water is drinkable in much of Russia, but not in Moscow or St. Petersburg, so use bottled water. The 0.5-5R charge for public toilets generally gets you a hole in the ground and maybe some toilet paper.
Crimes against foreigners are on the rise, particularly in Moscow and St. Petersburg. Although it is often difficult to blend in, try not to flaunt your nationality. Seeming Russian may increase your chances of police attention, but keeps you safer among the citizenry. It is unwise to take pictures of anything related to the military or to act in a way that might attract the attention of anyone in uniform. Avoid interaction with the police unless an emergency necessitates it. It is legal for police to stop anyone on the street (including foreigners) to ask for documentation, so carry your passport and visa with you at all times. If you do not (and sometimes even if you do), expect to be taken to a police station and/or to be asked to pay a fine. Let’s Go does not endorse bribery, but some travelers report that such “fines” are negotiable and, for minor infractions, should not amount to more than 500-1000R. Do not let officials go through your possessions, as travelers have reported incidences of police theft. If police try to detain you, threaten to call your embassy (“ ya pozvonyu svoyu posolstvu ”). It may be simpler and safer to go ahead and pay.
Sexual harassment can still be a problem in Russia. Local men will try to pick up lone women and will get away with offensive language and actions. The routine starts with an innocent-sounding “ Devushka.. ” (young lady); say “ Nyet ” (No) or simply walk away. Women in Russia tend to dress quite formally. Those who do not speak Russian will also find themselves the target of unwanted attention. The authorities on the Metro and police on the street will frequently stop dark-skinned individuals, who may also receive rude treatment in shops and restaurants. Although violent crime against foreigners is generally rare, anti-Semitic and racist hate crimes—including murder—are on the rise. Homosexuality is still taboo even in the larger cities; it is best to be discreet.
By Plane. Most major international carriers fly into Domodedovo (DME, ☎095 933 6666, www.domodedovo.ru/en) in Moscow or Pulkovo-2 (LED, ☎812 572 1272, www.pulkovoairport.ru/eng) in St. Petersburg. Aeroflot , (Leningradskiy Prospect 37, Building 9, Moscow 125167 ☎495 753 5555; www.aeroflot.org) is the most popular domestic carrier. Aeroflot has come a long way since the fall of communism, and its much-maligned safety record in fact bears comparison with most European airlines. From London, Aeroflot offers cheap flights into Russia. A number of European budget airlines land in Tallinn, EST; Riga, LAT; or Helsinki, FIN, from which you can reach Russia by bus or train.
By Train And By Bus. In a perfect world, all travelers would fly into St. Petersburg or Moscow, skipping customs officials who tear packs apart and demand bribes, and avoiding Belarus entirely. Nevertheless, many travelers find themselves headed to Russia on an eastbound train. If that train is passing through Belarus, you will need a US$100 transit visa to pass through the country. If you wait until you reach the Belarusian border to get one, you’ll likely pay more and risk being pulled off the train for an unexpected weekend getaway in Minsk. Trains, however, are a cheap and relatively comfortable way to travel to Russia from Tallinn, EST; Riga LAT; and Vilnius, LIT. Domestically, trains are generally the best option. Weekend or holiday trains between St. Petersburg and Moscow sometimes sell out a week in advance. The best class is lyuks , with two beds, while the 2nd-class kupeyny has four bunks. The next class down is platskartny , an open car with 52 shorter, harder bunks. Aim for bunks 1-33; they’re farthest from the bathroom. Day trains sometimes have a very cheap fourth class, “ opshiya ,” which typically only provides hard wooden benches. Hotels and tourist offices are invaluable resources for those who don’t speak Russian; almost no train station officials speak English, and train schedules are impossibly complicated. Women traveling alone can try to buy out a lyuks compartment or can travel platskartny and depend on the crowds to shame would-be harassers. Platskartny is a better idea on the theft-ridden St. Petersburg-Moscow line, as you are less likely to be targeted in that class. Try to board trains on time; changing your ticket carries a fee of up to 25%.
By Bus. Buses, cheaper than trains, are better for very short distances. Russian roads are in poor condition, making for bumpy trips. They are often crowded and overbooked. Be assertive in ousting people who try to sit in your seat.
By Boat. Cruise ships stop in the main Russian ports: St. Petersburg, Murmansk, and Vladivostok. However, they usually allow travelers less than 48hr. in the city. Ferries run from Vladivostok to both Japan and Korea, while Kaliningrad is served by links to Sweden and Lithuania. A river cruise runs between Moscow and St. Petersburg.
By Car And By Taxi. Although it is sometimes necessary to reach Russia’s more remote regions, renting a car is both expensive and difficult; poor road conditions, the necessity of bribing traffic inspectors, dangerous driving practices, and the frequency of automobile crime make the experience particularly stressful. If you must drive, however, remember to bring your International Driving Permit. Avis, Budget, and Hertz rent cars in Russia. Hailing a taxi is indistinguishable from hitchhiking, and should be treated with equal caution. Though it is technically illegal, most drivers who stop will be private citizens trying to make a little extra cash; even cars labeled taxis may not be official. Those seeking a ride should stand off the curb and hold out a hand into the street, palm down; when a car stops, riders tell the driver the destination before getting in; he will either refuse altogether or ask “ Сколько ?” (Skolko?; How much?), leading to negotiations. Non-Russian speakers will get ripped off unless they manage a firm agreement and are well-aware of the fair price—if the driver agrees without asking for a price, you must ask “ skolko ?” yourself (sign language works too). Never get into a car that has more than one person in it. Let’s Go does not recommend hitchhiking.
Email And Internet. Internet cafes are prevalent throughout St. Petersburg and Moscow, but aren’t as popular elsewhere, where connections are slower. Internet typically costs 35-70R per hr. Many Internet cafes are open 24hr.
Telephone. Most public telephones take phonecards , which are sold at central telephone offices, Metro stations, and newspaper kiosks. When you are purchasing phonecards from a telephone office or Metro station, the attendant will often ask, “ На улицу ?” (Na ulitsu?; On the street?) to find out whether you want a card for the phones in the station or for outdoor public phones. Be careful: phone cards in Russia are very specific, and it is easy to purchase the wrong kind. For five-digit numbers, insert a “2” between the dialing code and the phone number. Make direct international calls from telephone offices in St. Petersburg and Moscow: calls to Europe run US$1-1.50 per min., to the US and Australia about US$1.50-2. Mobile phones have become a popular accessory among Russians and are a comforting safety blanket for visitors. Most new phones are compatible with Russian networks and cell phone shops are common, but service can be costly. On average, a minute costs US$0.20 and users are charged for incoming calls. For longer stays consider purchasing a SIM card ($10), but take care that your phone is not locked before buying. Major providers Megafon, BeeLine GSM, and MTS have stores throughout the cities, as do rental chains like Euroset and Svyaznoy. International access codes include: AT&T (which varies by region: see www.usa.att.com/traveler/access_numbers/index.jsp for specific info); British Telecom (http://www.thephonebook.bt.com">http://www.thephonebook.bt.com">http://www.thephonebook.bt.com); Canada Direct (www.infocanadadirect.com); Sprint (www.sprint.com/traveler).
Mail. Mail service is more reliable leaving the country than coming in. Letters to the US arrive one to two weeks after mailing, while letters to other destinations take two to three weeks. Airmail is “ авиа ” (aviya). Send mail “ заказное ” (zakaznoye; certified; 40R) to reduce the chance of it being lost. Since most post office employees do not speak English it can be helpful to say “ banderoley ,” which signifies international mail, and to know the Russian name of the country of destination. Poste Restante (mail held for collection at the post office) is Pismo Do Vostrebovaniya. Address envelopes: LAST NAME, first name, Postal Code, city, Письмо До Востребования, оссия.
Language. Russian is an East Slavic language written in the Cyrillic alphabet. Once you get the hang of the Cyrillic alphabet, you can pronounce just about any Russian word, even if you sound like an idiot. Although English is increasingly common among young people, learn at least a few helpful Russian phrases. For basic Russian words and phrases see Phrasebook: Russian, .
The hostel scene in Russia is limited mostly to St. Petersburg and Moscow and averages US$18-25 per night. Some hostels, particularly those in smaller towns, will only accept Russian guests. Reserve in advance. Hotels offer several classes of rooms. “ Лкс ” (Lyux), usually two-room doubles with TV, phone, fridge, and bath, are the most expensive. “ Поли-лкс ” (Polu-lyux) rooms are singles or doubles with TV, phone, and bath. The lowest-priced rooms are “ без удобств ” (bez udobstv), which means one room with a sink. Expect to pay 300-450R for a single in a budget hotel. As a rule, only cash is accepted. In many hotels, hot water —and sometimes all water—is only turned on for a few hours each day.
University dorms offer cheap rooms; some accept foreign students for about US$5-10 per night. The rooms are livable, but don’t expect sparkling bathrooms or reliable hot water. Make arrangements through an educational institute from home. In the larger cities, private rooms and apartments can often be found for very reasonable prices (about 200R per night). Outside major train stations, there are usually women offering private rooms to rent—bargain with them and ask to see the room before agreeing. Camping is very rare in Russia.
Russian cuisine is a medley of dishes both delectable and unpleasant; tasty борщ (borshch; beet soup) can come in the same meal as сало (salo; pig fat). The largest meal of the day, обед (obed; lunch), includes: салат (salat; salad), usually cucumbers and tomatoes or beets and potatoes with mayonnaise or sour cream; суп (sup; soup); and курица (kuritsa; chicken) or мясо (myaso; meat), often called котлеты (kotlety; cutlets). Other common foods include щи (shchi; cabbage soup) and блины (bliny; potato pancakes). Vegetarians and kosher diners traveling in Russia will probably find it easiest to avoid rural cuisine and to eat in foreign restaurants. On the streets, you’ll see a lot of шашлики (shashliki; barbecued meat on a stick) and квас (kvas), a slightly alcoholic dark-brown drink. Beware of any meat products hawked by sidewalk vendors; they may be several days old. Kiosks often carry alcohol such as imported cans of beer, which are warm but safe. Beware makeshift labels in Russian—you have no way of knowing what’s really in the bottle. У сский Стандарт (Russkiy Standart) and Флагман (Flagman) are the best vodkas; the much-touted Stolichnaya is made mostly for export. Among local beers, Балтика (Baltika; numbered 1-7 according to brew and alcohol content) is the most popular and arguably the best. Baltika 1 is the weakest (5%), Baltika 7 the strongest (7%). Baltikas 4 and 6 are dark; the rest are lagers.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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