With mild winters and hot summers, there’s no wrong time to travel to Turkey. While most tourists go in July and August, those visiting between April and June or September and October will enjoy temperate days, smaller crowds, and lower prices. The rainy season runs from November to February, so remember to bring appropriate gear if traveling during these months.
Embassies And Consulates. Foreign embassies to Turkey are in Ankara, though many nations also have consulates in İstanbul. Turkish embassies and consulates abroad include: Australia, 6 Moonah Pl., Yarralumla, Canberra, ACT 2600 (☎02 62 34 00 00; www.turkishembassy.org.au); Canada, 197 Wurtemburg St., Ottawa, ON, K1N 8L9 (☎613-789-4044; www.turkishembassy.com); Ireland, 11 Clyde Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (☎353 668 52 40); New Zealand, 15-17 Murphy St., Level 8, Wellington 6011 (☎044 721 290; turkemşxtra.co.nz); UK, 43 Belgrave Sq., London SW1X 8PA (☎020 73 93 02 02; www.turkishembassylondon.org); US, 2525 Massachusetts Ave., N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008 (☎202-612-6700; www.turkishembassy.org).
Visa And Entry Information. Citizens of Canada and the US may obtain visas at entry points into Turkey for stays of less than three months (paid in cash). For longer stays, study, or work visas, and for citizens of Australia, New Zealand, and countries of the EU, it is necessary to obtain visas in advance (about US$20; Canadians, about US$60), available at Turkish consulates abroad. Travelers must apply at least one month in advance. For more info, visit www.mfa.gov.tr/mfa. If arriving by ferry, expect a port tax of at least €10.
Tourist Services
In big cities like İstanbul, many establishments that claim to be tourist offices are actually travel agencies. That said, travel agencies can often be more helpful for finding accommodations or booking transportation than the official Turkish tourist offices. Although it’s best to shop around from agency to agency for a deal on tickets, be wary of exceptionally low prices—offices may tack on exorbitant hidden charges. The official tourism website (www.tourismturkey.org) has visa info, helpful links, and office locations.
Money
In response to rampant inflation and ever-confusing prices, Turkey revalued its currency in 2005, dropping 6 zeroes. One million Turkish Lira became 1 Yeni Türk Lirası (New Turkish Lira; YTL). One New Turkish Lira equals 100 New Kuruş, with standard denominations of 5, 10, 25, and 50. 1YTL are available as both coins and bills, while denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100YTL come only as banknotes. While Old Turkish Lira are no longer accepted as currency, Turkish Lira banknotes (bills) can be redeemed until 2016 at the Central Bank of the Republic of Turkey (CBRT) and at T.C. Ziraat Bank branches. Old Lira coins are no longer redeemable. Banks are generally open 8:30am-noon and 1:30-5:30pm. Inflation has decreased dramatically in recent years, dropping from 45% in 2003 to an all-time low of 7.7% in 2005 before rising again slightly. The best currency exchange rates can be found at state-run post and telephone offices (PTT). Many places in İstanbul and other major cities accept euro. Turkey has a value added tax (VAT) of 18% on general purchases and 8% on food. The prices in Let’s Go include VAT. Spending more than 118YTL in one store entitles travelers to a tax refund upon leaving Turkey; look for “Tax-Free Shopping” stickers in shop windows or ask for a form inside. For more info on VAT refunds, see.
Medical facilities in Turkey vary greatly. In İstanbul and Ankara, high-quality hospitals for foreigners and expats provide care for all but the most serious of conditions, and most have adequate medical supplies. Outside the cities, though, it is a different story; try to avoid rural hospitals. Pharmacies are easy to find in major cities and are generally well stocked and have at least one professional pharmacist, as they’re mandated by the government. Don’t drink water that hasn’t been boiled or filtered, and watch out for ice in drinks. Most local dairy products are safe to eat.
Petty crime is common in urban centers, especially in crowded squares, the Grand Bazaar, and on public transportation. Common schemes include distracting travelers with a staged fight while they are being robbed; drugging travelers with tea, juice, or other drinks and then robbing them; or simply presenting travelers with outrageously expensive bills. Pay attention to your valuables, never accept drinks from a stranger, and always ask in advance for prices at bars and restaurants. Though pirated goods are sold on the street, it is illegal to buy them; doing so can result in fines. Drug trafficking leads to severe jail time. It is also illegal to show disrespect to Atatürk or to insult the state.
Foreign women, especially those traveling alone, attract significant attention in Turkey. Unwanted catcalls and other forms of verbal harassment are common, although physical harassment is rare. Regardless of the signals a foreign woman intends to send, her foreignness alone may suggest a liberal openness to amorous advances. Smiling, regarded in the West as a sign of confidence and friendliness, is sometimes associated in Turkey with sexual attraction. As long as women expect plenty of attention and take common-sense precautions, however, even single travelers need not feel anxious.
Although homosexuality is legal in Turkey, religious and social norms keep most homosexual activity discreet. Homophobia can be a problem, especially in remote areas; expect authorities to be unsympathetic. Despite the close contact that Turks maintain with same-sex friends, public displays of affection between gay and lesbian travelers should be avoided. Turkey’s urban centers have bars and informal cruising areas for men only, though they may not be very overt. Lambda İstanbul, a GLBT support group, lists guides to gay-friendly establishments on its website (www.qrd.org/qrd/www/world/europe/turkey/).
Email And The Internet. Like everything in Turkey, the availability of Internet services depends on where in the country you are. In İstanbul, Internet cafes are everywhere; in the east, they can be tough to find. Free Wi-Fi is available at hostels and cafes across the city.
Telephones. Whenever possible, use a calling card for international phone calls, as long-distance rates for national phone services are often very high. Mobile phones are an increasingly popular and economical option. Major mobile carriers include Turkcell, Telsim, and Avea. Direct-dial access numbers for calling out of Turkey include: AT&T Direct (☎80 01 22 77); British Telecom (☎80 044 1177); Canada Direct (☎80 01 66 77). For info on calling from Europe, see.
Mail. The postal system is quick and expensive in Turkey. Airmail should be marked par avion, and Poste Restante is available in most major cities.
Accommodations And Camping
When it comes to lodging, Turkey is a budget traveler’s paradise. Hostels are available in nearly every major city. Pensions —a step above hostels in both quality and price—are also generally available, as are hotels in every price range. Camping is very common throughout Turkey, especially on the Aegean coast; campgrounds are generally inexpensive (US$3-10) or free.
Turkish cuisine is as varied as Turkish culture. Strategically located on the land bridge between Europe and Asia, İstanbul is the culinary epicenter of the region, drawing from the dietary practices of many different cultures. Fish is a staple in Turkey, especially along the coast, where it is prepared with local spices according to traditional recipes. When it comes to meat, lamb and chicken are Turkish favorites, and are typically prepared as kebab —a term which means far more in Turkey than the dry meat cubes on a stick found in most Western restaurants. Despite its strong Muslim majority, Turkey produces good wines. More interesting, however, is the unofficial national drink: rakı. Translated as “lion’s milk,” rakı is Turkey’s answer to French pastis, Italian sambuca, and Greek ouzo. An anise-flavored liquor, it turns milky white when mixed with water. The strong drink has inspired a Turkish saying: “you must drink the rakı, and not let the rakı drink you.”
Language. Turkish (Türkçe), the official language of Turkey, is spoken by approximately 65 million people domestically and a few million more abroad. It is the most prominent member of the Turkic language family, which also includes Azerbaijani, Kazakh, Kyrgyz, Uighur, and Uzbek. Turkish was originally written in Arabic script and exhibited strong Arabic and Persian influences. In 1928, however, Atatürk reformed the language, purging foreign influences. This linguistic standardization was not absolute, and common Arabic and Persian words such as merhaba (hello) remain.
Visitors who speak little or no Turkish should not be intimidated. Though Turks appreciate attempts at conversing in their language, English is widely spoken wherever tourism is big business—mainly in the major coastal towns. Especially in İstanbul, a small phrasebook will help greatly. For in-depth study, consult Teach Yourself Turkish by Pollard and Pollard (New York, 2004; $17).
Demographics. Over 99% of the Turkish population is Muslim. Jews and Orthodox Christians of Armenian, Greek, and Syrian backgrounds comprise the remainder. While Turkey does not have an official state religion, every Turkish citizen’s national identification card states his or her faith. Although Atatürk’s reforms aimed to secularize the nation, Islam continues to play a key role in the country’s politics and culture.
Customs And Etiquette. Turks value hospitality and will frequently go out of their way to welcome travelers, commonly offering to buy visitors a meal or a cup of çay (tea). Try not to refuse tea unless you have very strong objections; accepting the offer provides a friendly, easy way to converse with locals. If you are invited to a Turkish house as a guest, it is customary to bring a small gift, often pastries or chocolates, and to remove your shoes before entering. A pair of slippers will usually be provided. Always treat elders with special respect. When chatting with Turks, do not speak with any disrespect or skepticism about Atatürk, as this is illegal, and avoid other sensitive subjects. In particular, avoid discussing the Kurdish issue, the PKK (the Kurdistan Workers’ Party), Northern Cyprus, or Turkey’s human rights record.
Many of Turkey’s greatest architectural monuments, including tombs and mosques, have religious significance. Visitors are welcome but should show respect by dressing and acting appropriately. Shorts and skimpy clothing are forbidden inside mosques. Women must cover their arms, heads, and legs, and both sexes should take off their shoes and carry them inside. There are usually shoe racks in the back of the mosques; otherwise, caretakers will provide plastic bags for carrying shoes. Do not take flash photos, never photograph people in prayer, and avoid visits on Fridays (Islam’s holy day). Also forgo visiting during prayer times, which are announced by the müezzin’s call to prayer from the mosque’s minarets. Donations are sometimes expected.
If bargaining is a fine art, then İstanbul is its cultural center. Never pay full price at the Grand Bazaar; start out by offering less than 50% of the asking price. For that matter, bargain just about everywhere—even when stores list prices, they’ll usually take around 60-70%. If you’re not asked to pay a service charge when paying by credit card, you’re probably paying too much for your purchase. Tipping isn’t required in Turkey: at bathhouses, hairdressers, hotels, and restaurants, a tip of 5-15% is common, but taxis and dolmuş drivers do not expect tips—just try to round up to the nearest YTL.
Body Vibes. In Turkey, body language often matters as much as the spoken word. When a Turk raises his chin and clicks his tongue, he means hayır (no); this gesture is sometimes accompanied by a shutting of the eyes or the raising of eyebrows. A sideways shake of the head means anlamadım (I don’t understand), and evet (yes) may be signaled by a sharp downward nod. If a Turk waves a hand up and down at you, palm toward the ground, he is signaling you to come, not bidding you farewell. In Turkey, the idle habit of snapping the fingers of one hand and then slapping the top of the other fist is considered obscene; so too is the hand gesture made by bringing thumb and forefinger together (the Western sign for “OK”). However, bringing all fingers toward the thumb is a compliment, generally meaning that something is “good.” It is also considered rude to point your finger or the sole of your shoe toward someone. Though public displays of affection are considered inappropriate, Turks of both sexes greet each other with a kiss on both cheeks, and often touch or hug one another during conversation. Turks also tend to stand close to one another while talking.
Dress. Wearing shorts will single you out as a tourist, as most Turks—particularly women—prefer pants or skirts. Women will probably find a head scarf or a bandana handy, perhaps essential, in more conservative regions. Even in İstanbul and the resort towns of the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts where casual, beachy dress is more widely accepted, revealing clothing sends a flirtatious message. More acceptable knee-length skirts and lightweight pants are also comfortable and practical, especially in summer. T-shirts are generally appropriate, though you should always cover your arms when entering mosques or traveling into the more religious regions of the country. Topless bathing is common in some areas along the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts but is severely inappropriate in a number of other regions.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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