Ukraine is a huge country with a diverse climate. Things heat up from June to August in Odessa and Crimea, which are just barely subtropical. It is best to reserve accommodations in advance at these times. Kyiv enjoys a moderate climate, while the more mountainous west remains cool even in summer. Winter tourism is popular in the Carpathians, but unless you’re skiing, spring and summer are probably the best times to visit the country. Book accommodations early around the May 1 holiday.
Embassies And Consulates. Foreign embassies to Ukraine are in Kyiv . Ukrainian embassies and consulates abroad include: Australia, Level 12, St. George Centre, 60 Marcus Clarke St., Canberra, ACT 2601 (☎02 62 30 57 89; www.ukremb.info); Canada, 310 Somerset St., West Ottawa, ON K2P 0J9 (☎613-230-2400; www.mfa.gov.ua/canada); Ireland, refer to UK embassy; New Zealand, 48, Ayton Drive, Glenfield, Auckland (☎94 01 94 93; http://ukraine.visahq.com/embassy/New-Zealand">http://ukraine.visahq.com/embassy/New-Zealand">http://ukraine.visahq.com/embassy/New-Zealand); UK, 60 Holland Park, London, W11 3SJ (☎020 77 27 63 12, visas ☎020 72 43 89 23; www.ukremb.org.uk); US, 3350 M St., NW, Washington, DC 20007 (☎202-333-0606; www.mfa.gov.ua/usa).
Visa And Entry Information. Ukraine’s visa requirements have changed rapidly since 2005 as the new government works to encourage tourism. Visas are no longer required for American or Canadian citizens or citizens of the EU for stays of up to 90 days. All visas are valid for 90 days. Citizens of Australia and New Zealand require a letter of invitation (available from Ukrainian or Australian/New Zealand travel agencies) but citizens of Canada, the EU, and the US do not. Travelers should allow three weeks for processing. You can extend your visa in Ukraine, at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, (Velyka Zhitomirska st., 2, Kyiv) or at the local Office of Visas and Registration ( ОВИ ; OVYR), often located at the police station. Do not lose the paper given to you when entering the country to supplement your visa. Make sure to carry your passport and visa at all times.
Tourist Offices. Lviv’s tourist office is helpful, but it is the only official tourist office in Ukraine. The remains of the Soviet giant Intourist have offices in hotels, but staff often doesn’t speak English. The official tourist website, www.traveltoukraine.org, has a list of “reliable travel agents.” Local travel agencies can be helpful, but are sometimes overly pushy.
Money. The Ukrainian unit of currency is the hryvnya ( hv ), and Obmin Valyut (Обмшн Валт) kiosks in most cities offer the best rates for currency exchange. Traveler’s checks can be changed for a small commission in many cities. ATMs are everywhere. Most banks will give MasterCard and Visa cash advances for a high commission. The lobbies of upscale hotels usually exchange US dollars at lousy rates. Private money changers lurk near kiosks, ready with brilliant schemes for scamming you, but exchanging money with them is illegal.
Hospital facilities in Ukraine are limited and do not meet American or Western European standards. Patients may be required to bring their own medical supplies (e.g., bandages). When in doubt, it is advisable to seek aid from your local embassy. Medical evacuations to Western Europe cost US$25,000 and upwards of US$50,000 to the US. Pharmacies (Аптеки; Apteky) are quite common and carry basic Western products. Boil all water or learn to love brushing your teeth with soda water. Peel or wash fruits and vegetables from open markets. Meat purchased at public markets should be checked carefully and cooked thoroughly; refrigeration is infrequent and insects run rampant. Avoid the tasty-looking hunks of meat for sale out of buckets on the Kyiv metro. Embassy officials declare that Chernobyl-related radiation poses minimal risk to short-term travelers. Public restrooms range from disgusting to frightening. Pay toilets (платн; platni ) are cleaner and might provide toilet paper, but bring your own.
While Ukraine is politically stable, it is poor. Pickpocketing and wallet scams are the most common crimes against tourists; however, instances of armed robbery and assault have been reported. Do not accept drinks from strangers, as this could result in your being drugged. Credit card and ATM fraud are rampant; only use ATMs inside banks and hotels, and avoid using credit cards when possible. Also use caution when crossing the street—drivers do not stop for pedestrians. It’s wise to register with your embassy once you get to Ukraine.
Women traveling alone may receive catcalls by men anywhere they go, but usually will be safe otherwise. Ukrainian women rarely go to restaurants alone, so expect to feel conspicuous if you do. Women may request to ride in female-only compartments during long train rides, though most do not. Although non-Caucasians may experience discrimination, the biggest problems stem from the militia, who frequently stop people who appear non-Slavic. Homosexuality is not yet accepted in Ukraine; it’s best to be discreet.
By Plane. It is expensive to travel to Ukraine by plane, and few budget airlines fly in or out of the country. Ground transportation tends to be safer and more pleasant, but it can take a long time to traverse the great distances between cities. Most international flights land at Borispol International Airport (KPB, www.airport-borispol.kiev.ua, ☎490 47 77). Air Ukraine flies to Kyiv, Lviv, and Odessa from many European capitals. Aerosvit , Air France, British Airways, SA, Delta, Lufthansa, LOT, and Malev fly to Kyiv.
By Train. Trains run frequently and are the best way to travel. Ukraine’s system is generally safe, although Let’s Go discourages the use of night trains in the region. When coming from a non-ex-Soviet country, expect a 2hr. stop at the border. To purchase tickets, you must present a passport or student ID. Once on board, you must present both your ticket and ID to the konduktor . On most Ukrainian trains, there are three classes: плацкарт, or platskart , where you’ll be crammed in with babushki (little old ladies) and baskets of strawberries; купе, or kupe , a clean, more private, four-person compartment; and first class, referred to as СВ, or SV (for Spalny Wagon ), which is twice as roomy and expensive as kupe . Unless you’re determined to live like a local, pay the extra two dollars for kupe . Then again, women traveling alone may want to avoid the smaller, enclosed compartments of kupe ; in that case, platskart may be the safer option. The kasa will sell you a kupe seat unless you specify otherwise. Except in larger cities, where platform numbers are posted on the electronic board, the only way to figure out which platform your train leaves from is by listening to the distorted announcement. In large cities, trains arrive well before they are scheduled to depart, so you’ll have a few minutes to show your ticket to cashiers or fellow passengers and ask “plaht-FORM-ah?”
By Bus, Taxi, And Thumb. Buses cost about the same as trains, but are often much shabbier. For long distances, the train is usually more comfortable, although on some routes the bus proves considerably faster. One exception is AutoLux (АвтоЛкс, www.autolux.ua), which runs buses with A/C, snacks, and movies. Bus schedules are generally reliable, but low demand can cause cancellations. Buy tickets at the kasa ; if they’re sold out, try going directly to the driver, who might just magically find you a seat and pocket the money. Navigating the bus system can be tough for those who do not speak Ukrainian or Russian. Taxi drivers love to rip off foreigners, so negotiate the price beforehand. Few Ukrainians hitchhike, but those who do hold a sign with their destination or just wave an outstretched hand. Let’s Go does not recommend hitchhiking.
Telephone And Internet. Telephone services are stumbling toward modernity. The easiest way to make international calls is with Utel. Buy an Utel phonecard (sold at most Utel phone locations) and dial the number of your international operator (counted as a local call). International access codes include: AT&T Direct (☎8 100 11); Canada Direct (☎8 100 17); and MCI WorldPhone (☎8 100 13). Alternatively, call at the central telephone office ; estimate the length of your call and pay at the counter, and they’ll direct you to a booth. Calling can be expensive, but you can purchase a 30min. international calling card for 15hv. Local calls from gray payphones generally cost 10-30hv. For an English-speaking operator, dial ☎8192. Cell phones are everywhere; to get one, stop at any kiosk or corner store. Internet cafes can be found in every major city and typically charge 4-12hv per hour of use. Major cities typically have 24hr. Internet cafes.
Mail. Mail is cheap, reliable, and extremely user-friendly, taking about 8-10 days to reach North America. Sending a postcard or a letter of less than 20g internationally costs 0.66hv. Address Poste Restante (mail held at the post office for collection, до запитання; do zapytannya) as follows: First name LAST NAME, post office address, Postal Code, city, ГЛКФШТУ.
Language. Traveling in Ukraine is much easier if you know some Ukrainian or Russian. Ukrainian is an East Slavic language written in the Cyrillic alphabet. For basic Russian words and phrases see Phrasebook . In Kyiv, Odessa, and Crimea, Russian is more commonly spoken than Ukrainian (although all official signs are in Ukrainian). If you’re trying to get by with Russian in western Ukraine, you may run into some difficulty: everyone understands Russian, but some people will answer in Ukrainian out of habit or nationalist sentiment. Let’s Go provides city names in Ukrainian for Kyiv and western Ukraine, while Russian names are used for Crimea and Odessa.
The hostel scene in Ukraine is quickly establishing itself, though hostels are uncommon outside Lviv, Kyiv, and Odessa. Budget accommodations are often in unrenovated Soviet-era buildings, though they are rapidly improving. More expensive lodgings aren’t necessarily nicer. Not all hotels accept foreigners, and overcharging tourists is common. Though room prices in Kyiv are astronomical, singles run anywhere from 65-110hv in the rest of the country. Standard hotel rooms include TVs, phones, and refrigerators. You will be given a vizitka (hotel card) to show to the hall monitor ( dezhurnaya ) to get a key; return it each time you leave. Hot water doesn’t necessarily come with a bath—ask before checking in. Private rooms are the best bargain and run 20-50hv. These can be arranged through overseas agencies or bargained for at the train station. Big cities have camping facilities—usually a remote spot with trailers. Camping outside designated areas is illegal, and enforcement is strict.
New, fancy restaurants accommodate tourists and the few Ukrainians who can afford them, while stolovayas (cafeterias)—remnants of Soviet times—serve cheap, hot food. Pierogi-like dumplings called vavenyky are ubiquitous and delicious. Vegetarians beware: meat has a tendency to show up in so-called “vegetarian” dishes. Finding kosher foods can be daunting, but it helps to eat non-meat items. Fruits and veggies are sold at markets; bring your own bag. State food stores are classified by content: hastronom (packaged goods); moloko (milk products); ovochi - frukty (fruits and vegetables); myaso (meat); khlib (bread); kolbasy (sausage); and ryba (fish). Kvas is a popular, barely-alcoholic, fermented bread drink. Grocery stores are often simply labeled mahazyn (store). Beer can be drunk publicly but hard liquor can’t. The distinction is telling—“I drink beer,” goes one Ukrainian saying, “and I also drink alcohol.”
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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