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Amsterdam:


OTHER The Netherlands DESTINATIONS


Amsterdam Red Light District

No one comes to the Red Light District to go museum-hopping. However, if you decide to take a break from pretending not to look at the window prostitutes, there are a few sights here that you can examine without feeling nearly as embarrassed.

  • Oude Kerk, Oudekerksplein 23 (☎062 582 84; www.oudekerk.nl), Since its foundation in 1306, Oude Kerk, the oldest church in Amsterdam, has endured everything from the Protestant Reformation to the growth of the Red Light District which today encroaches naughtily on its very square. Oude Kerk didn't escape all this history unscathed: during the Alteration of the 16th century, the church lost much of its artwork and religious figures. However, it remains a strikingly beautiful structure, with massive vaulted ceilings and gorgeous stained glass that betray the building's Catholic, pre-Calvinist roots. The grandiose Vater-Muller organ wasn't around when Rembrandt married his first wife, Saskia van Uylenburgh, within these walls, but if you come for one of the concerts played on this instrument that dates back to 1724, make sure to look for where she is buried. Oude Kerk is now largely used for art and photography exhibitions, including the display of the prestigious World Press Photo prizewinners. From Centraal Station, walk down Damrak, take a left onto Oudebrugsteeg, and turn right onto Warmoesstraat; the next left leads to the church. Check the website for a calendar of organ concerts and other performances. €7.50; students, seniors, and under 13 €5.50; with Museumjaarkaart free. Open M-Sa 10am-5:30pm, Su 1-5:30pm. Last entry 30min. before close. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.
  • Ons' Lieve Heer op Solder, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 (☎062 466 04; www.opsolder.nl), In contrast to the typical Catholic lavishness of Oude Kerk around the corner, Ons' Lieve Heer op Solder—the name translates to “Our Lord in the Attic”—highlights the more muted Catholicism of the 17th century, when openly practicing the religion was prohibited and churches such as this one were hidden in canal house attics. Despite its clandestine location, the church still managed to maintain the traditional Catholic concern for spaces of worship whose beauty honors the glory of God. Surprisingly large, it contains an impressive organ and a beautiful altarpiece by the famous painter Jacob de Wit. Unfortunately, the church is undergoing restorations until 2012, so much of the artwork is currently being stored elsewhere. However, the church is still open, allowing you to get a feel for the place. Additionally, the excellent planned route up and down the three houses that are joined by the attic church gives a detailed glimpse into 17th-century Dutch life and i From Centraal Station, turn left onto Prins Hendrikkade and then bear right onto Nieuwebrugsteeg; continue straight as Nieuwebrugsteeg becomes Oudezijds Vorburgwaal. €7, students €5, under 18 €1, under 5 and Museumjaarkaart holders free. Open M-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 1-5pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access.
  • Brouwerij de Prael, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 30 (☎040 844 70; www.deprael.nl), A brewery that does more than just make beer, de Prael was founded by two former psychiatrists who now employ over 60 people with a history of mental illness to staff the brewery. The owners' backgrounds have made it into other elements of the company, particularly the names they give their brews. Each beer on tap shares its moniker with a popular singer of levensliederen, which are essentially sappy Dutch ballads that, apparently, exert a special pull on these brewers' heartstrings. The beers are all organic, unfiltered, and non-pasteurized. On a tour, you can learn about the brewery and opt to try one beer or a tasting menu of four. A store that sells de Prael's beers and other merchandise is attached. From Centraal Station, turn left onto Prins Hendrikkade and then bear right onto Nieuwebrugsteeg; continue straight as it becomes Oudezijds Vorburgwaal. Reservations recommended for large group tours. Tour €4, with 1 beer €6.50, with tasting menu €14.50. Open M 12:30-5pm, Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-9pm, F 10am-6pm, Sa-Su noon-6pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
  • Hash Marijuana Hemp Museum, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148 (☎062 359 61; www.hashmuseum.com), No matter how much weed you've encountered in Amsterdam, this place probably has something you haven't seen before. More valuable for the kitsch factor than for actual information (if you want that, go a few doors down to Cannabis College), this museum explores the history and myriad uses of the cannabis plant. Displays detail ancient mentions of smoking marijuana, the importance of the hemp industry in the 17th and 18th centuries, the science of THC, and the costs of America's war on drugs—among much other ganga-related information. You can see a collection of pipes from around the world and a copy of the Declaration of Independence printed on hemp paper. Scattered somewhat incongruously throughout are Bible verses that could be liberally interpreted as support for the freedom to toke up. Hey, take backing from anywhere you can get it, especially when it's of the divine variety. A grow room sits adjacent to the main display area. Check out a few large, leafy specimens of From Dam Square, walk east on Dam and make a left onto Oudezijds Achterburgwal. €9, groups of 10 or more €7 per person. Open daily 10am-11pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
  • Cannabis College, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 124 (☎042 344 20; www.cannabiscollege.com), Get your druggie “diploma” (a bachelor's in blunts? a master's in marijuana? a doctorate in doobies?) by taking a short quiz on all things cannabis-related. Don't just come to pad your credentials, though: this is a repository of any and all information you could ever want about the funny stuff. Friendly volunteers on staff are happy to answer any questions visitors may have about the history, science, and usage of the drug. They're so knowledgeable that they run training programs for coffeeshop staffers, and they're hoping to expand with even more educational opportunities in the future. Downstairs, a wide variety of plants grow in a lovingly tended organic garden. From Dam Square, walk east on Dam and make a left onto Oudezijds Achterburgwal. Free. Garden €2.50. Open daily 11am-7pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.



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