The Jordaan blends the bizarre with the classic in its fine selection of museums. Electric Ladyland’s fluorescent paradise is not to be missed; neither is the smaller but historically relevant Houseboat Museum.
Electric Ladyland: The First Museum Of Fluorescent Art. Here, owner Nick Padalino has collected a singularly impressive assortment of fluorescent objects from the mines of New Jersey to the heights of the Himalayas. These include gorgeous rocks that glow green in black light, paint kits from the 1950s, and an array of everyday objects that reveal hidden images—Albert Einstein’s face hidden on a Dutch credit card, for example. Even better is Padalino’s mind-bending fluorescent grotto-like sculpture, which he deems “participatory art.” Visitors are encouraged to play with the many switches and buttons that turn various lights on and off; try to find the miniature statues and concealed periscopes all around the sculpture. It took Padalino seven years to make, and he—to whom the adjective “knowledgeable” does not do justice—won’t hesitate to spend anywhere from one to three hours explaining the science behind the art. Indeed, a visit to the museum is essentially a private tour with the endearingly eccentric and passionate owner. (If the museum is closed when you arrive, it may be that he is simply downstairs giving a tour—you may have to wait around or come back later.) The other side of the small museum displays the scientific and cultural artifacts in Padalino’s collection, and upstairs his fluorescent art—prints, sculptures, cards, etc.—is sold. (2e Leliedwarsstraat 5, below the art gallery, off Prinsengracht between Bloemgracht and Egelantiersgracht. Tram #13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt; tram #10 to Bloemgracht; or bus #21, 170, or 171 to Westermarkt. ☎420 3776; www.electric-lady-land.com. Check website for how to get there; people often get lost despite written directions. Open Tu-Sa 1-6pm. €5, under 12 free.)
Woonboot (Houseboat) Museum. Houseboats in Amsterdam began as a way to relieve overcrowding and the severe housing shortage that followed WWII. Living on the water is now in vogue, though owning one of the 2500 houseboats that line the canals can be more a labor of love than a practical dwelling, due to the constant maintenance boats require. This houseboat lets you see what the floating life might be like, complete with a tiny bathroom, a play area, and a book-lined living room. A slide show of boats around Amsterdam uses Enya’s Orinoco Flow (Sail Away) as a soundtrack, and the museum has current listings of houseboats on the market should you feel particularly inspired. Be warned—the boats aren’t cheap. (In Prinsengracht canal opposite #296, facing Elandsgracht. ☎427 0750; www.houseboatmuseum.nl. Open Mar.-Oct. Tu-Su 11am-5pm; Nov.-Feb. F-Su 11am-5pm. Closed Jan. 5-30. €3.25, children shorter than 152cm €2.50.)
Stedelijk Museum Bureau Amsterdam. Tucked away on a quiet Jordaan street, this adjunct of the Stedelijk devotes itself to exhibiting the newest in Amsterdam art; most artists on display here are Dutch or live in the Netherlands. The Bureau’s pure white space can be light and breezy or dim and airless, depending on the exhibit. This testing ground for avant-garde artists and material designers hosts six shows per year, which range from traditional art forms like painting and sculpture to performance pieces, installation art, and multimedia. Shows in the Bureau can run anywhere from a weekend to a few months; check website for details. (Rozenstraat 59. ☎422 0471; www.smba.nl. Open Tu-Su 11am-5pm. Free.)
Pianola Museum. You wouldn’t expect to find a pianola museum, well, anywhere, but least of all tucked into an unassuming corner of bustling Westerstraat. For the uninitiated, the pianola (frequently referred to as a player piano) is an upright piano whose internal mechanism has been partially replaced with machinery that lets it play automatically; different songs are recorded on paper pianola rolls and inserted into the instrument, and air is forced through their holes via an elaborate system of tubing inside the piano. This offbeat curiosity of a museum lets the visitor explore not only the history of the pianola but also the scope of the 1920s, when the popularity of this dodo of musical instruments was at its peak. The collection began as a private obsession but now provides a unique glimpse into this otherwise marginalized niche culture. It also houses a collection of 25,000 vintage player-piano rolls and hosts regular weekend concerts (check website for details). (Westerstraat 106. ☎627 9624; www.pianola.nl. Open Su 2-5pm and by appointment during the week. €5, under 12 €3.)
For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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