An ancient castle towers over this city of 120,000, while a futebol stadium glistens below. In Leiria, Portugal’s two great passions, history and soccer, rival one another for veneration. Situated between Lisboa and Coimbra, Leiria was a strategic point during Dom Afonso Henriques’s campaign against the Moors, culminating in its recapture in 1135. Today, the city is one of Portugal’s most important economic centers, and it is bedecked with trendy boutiques and cozy restaurants. Leiria has not lost its historic feel, and its population, hailing from across Portugal, makes for a diverse urban center basking in a regal past.
The Jardim Luís de Camões is at the center of Leiria, surrounded by pensões and restaurants. Just off the garden is Praça Rodrigues Lobo, the heart of the historical center, between the Jardim Luís de Camões and the castle. The praça is full of cozy cafes and student bars, and the castle is a 10min. climb from here.
The Mercado Municipal, on Av. Cidade de Maringá, near the stadium and beside the river, sells fresh fish and produce. (Open Tu and Sa 8am-1pm.) Groceries and fresh bread are available at Leiria’s convenient Pingo Doce, Av. Heróis de Angola, 69, just past the bus station. (Open daily 9am-9pm.)
Leiria’s most significant monument is the giant Castelo de Leiria, visible throughout the city and particularly stunning late at night, when it is completely lit up against the dark mountainside. Built by Dom Afonso Henriques after he snatched the town from the Moors, this granite fort presides atop the crest of a volcanic hill on the north edge of town. One of the castelo’s highlights is the Torre de Menagem (Homage Tower), which houses rusty swords, chain mail armor, and artifacts found on-site. The Sala dos Namorados (Lovers’ Hall) sets the stage for medieval courting—don’t miss the beautiful view of the town and river from the terrace, as well as the gigantic, colorful Estádio Doutor Magalhães Pessoa, built especially for two Euro Cup 2004 soccer games. From the main square, walk toward the bus station on Lg. 5 de Outubro. Turn left on Lg. das Forças Armadas, just after the Banco de Portugal. Follow the signs past the austere, Sé (cathedral) and zigzag up to the castle. (☎244 81 39 82. Castle open Apr.-Sept. M-F 9am-6:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-6:30pm; Oct.-Mar. M-F 9am-5:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-5:30pm. Tower open Tu and Su 10am-noon and 1-5pm. €2.50; students, children, and seniors €1.25.)
Nearby beaches are accessible via buses running from the station to Praia de Viera (45min.; 9 per day 7am-7:30pm, last return 6:30pm; July-Sept. 14; €2.60). Praia Pedrógão, popular with locals and lined with stately residences (1hr.; 5 per day 9:15am-6pm, last return 7:30pm; €2.60) and the more secluded São Pedro de Muel (45min.; 4 per day 8:50am-4:30pm, last return 7:15pm; €2). Check for the exact schedules at the bus station in Leiria, as they are subject to change.
Buses run from Leiria to Batalha (20min., 8 per day 7:30-4:50pm, €1.57-2.60), and return to Leiria (20min. M-F 16 per day 7:15am-7:43pm. Sa-Su 3 per day 8:03am-7:43pm, €1.65). The easiest way to get to the caves is by taxi (€30-40 round-trip including waiting time). Be sure to set the price with the taxi driver before you head out. It is possible to take a bus, but the bus schedules from Batalha require careful planning and involve several hours of layover. Check with the tourist office to confirm schedules.
The Mosteiro Santa Maria da Vitória, a UNESCO World Heritage site, puts Batalha on the map. Its flamboyant facade soars upward in Gothic and Manueline style, opulently decorated and crowned in dozens of spires. Construction began in 1386 to fulfill Dom João I’s covenant to the Virgin Mary: he promised to build a monument in her honor if the Portuguese defeated the Castilian invaders at the Battle of Aljubarrota. The Capela do Fundador, the pantheon of João I and the Avis dynasty, lies immediately to the right of the church, housing the sarcophagi of Dom João I, his English-born queen Philippa of Lancaster, and their famous son Prince Henry the Navigator. Just outside the pantheon entrance rests the simpler tomb of Martin Gonçalves, the man who saved Dom João I’s life at Aljubarrota. Though the 15th-century Claustro de Dom Afonso V is the mosteiro’s highlight, the Capelas Imperfeitas (Unfinished Chapels) are also impressive. Jealous of his predecessor’s impressive pantheon, Dom Duarte commissioned the construction of an equally impressive pantheon to house his remains and those of his progeny; unfortunately, construction of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos in Belém drained resources and interest, leaving the elegant Renaissance chapel roofless. Today the mosteiro houses a tomb of unknown soldiers from WWI, and is under constant guard by military officials. There is also a professional school of stone carving that demonstrates how some of the mosteiro’s ornate sculptures were made. (Open daily Apr.-Sept. 9am-6pm, Oct.-Mar. 9am-5pm. €5, seniors €2.5, under 14 and students free. Su before 2pm free.)
A 20min. drive outside town brings you to a spelunker’s paradise: a series of spectacular underground grutas (caves) in Estremadura’s natural park. The Grutas de Mira de Aire, with a river 110m below ground level, are the deepest and the largest in all of Portugal. They are so popular that 3 million people visited them within the first 10 years of their opening. The nearby Grutas de Santo António and Alvados, with their caverns and sandcastle-like limestone formations, are equally impressive. (☎244 44 03 22 or 249 84 18 76. Grutas de Mira de Aire open daily June-Sept. 9:30am-6pm, Oct-May 9:30am-5pm, €5 per person. Grutas de Santo António and Alvados open daily Sept.-May 10am-5pm, June-Aug. 10am-6pm. €5. Last tickets sold 30min. before closing.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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