Amsterdam Zandvoort Aan Zee

Just seven miles from Haarlem, the seaside town of Zandvoort draws gaggles of sun-starved Germans and Dutch to its expansive stretch of sandy beaches during summer. The ocean water is generally too cold for prolonged swimming, though bodies of all shapes and sizes can be found in the surf on nice days, particularly when it goes above 20˚C in August.

Transportation And Practical Information. Take a train from Amsterdam’s Centraal Station (30min.; 3 per hr.; €4.70, round-trip €8.40) or from Haarlem (10min., round-trip €3.20). Rent bikes at the train station at Stationsplein (☎571 2600) or at Vondelaan 16 (☎572 0000). To find the shore from the train station, walk straight out from the station and keep walking until you trip over a fresh fish stand onto the sand. The VVV tourist office, Schoolplein 1, is just east of the town square off Louisdavidstraat and about eight minutes from the beach and the train station. From the station, take a left on Stationsstraat, a left onto Zeestraat, and a right onto Schoolstraat; follow that until you hit Schoolplein. The VVV is a great place to start your visit unless you’re just planning to plop down in the sand and never move again. The friendly staff can provide a guide to the beaches and accommodations, a map of hiking and biking trails in nearby Kennemerland National Park, and lots of information on the city. Their website lists accommodations options, so you can book online. (☎571 7947; www.vvvzk.nl. Open Oct.-Mar. M-F 9am-12:30pm and 1:30-4:30pm, Sa 10am-2pm; Apr.-Sept. M-F 9am-12:30pm and 1:30-4:30pm, Sa 10am-4pm.)

Accommodations And Food. There are quite a few hotels in Zandvoort, many of them located on Hogeweg or Haltestraat, including Hotel Arosa 3, Hogeweg 48, which features very clean, comfortable digs and a friendly proprietor. (☎571 3187; hotel_arosa@hotmail.com. Breakfast and city tax included. Small doubles €60, large doubles €72; triples €90. AmEx/MC/V.) Otherwise, you can book inexpensive B&B rooms through the VVV for a €3 fee. In Zandvoort, B&Bs are generally in private residences; bookings can be made up to three weeks in advance. Zandvoort’s restaurants can bankrupt you in true beach-resort style, but some budget deals line the streets radiating from Raadhuisplein. On sunny days, the best choice might be one of the many food trucks that park along the beach strip, vending seafood (fried or raw) fresh from the Atlantic (meals €3.50-7). One particularly reliable choice is Boudewijns Visservice 1, which usually parks at Badhuisplein right near the path down to the beach and serves delicious fried fish and seafood. (☎061 220 4648. Open daily 11am-8pm.) Kerkstraat and Haltestraat in particular are packed with eateries, most of which feature tranquil outdoor patios during the day that transform into lively bars at night. De Pannenkoeken Farm 1, Kerkstraat 10A, serves over 100 species of hot and fluffy pancakes topped with warm, friendly service. (☎571 9498. Pannenkoeken €6-9; in summer, all pannenkoeken €5. Open daily noon-10pm. Cash only.)

Sights And Entertainment. You can stake out a spot on the sand for free, but most locals catch their rays through the comfort of beach clubs, wood pavilions that run along the shore with enclosed restaurants, outdoor patios, and rows of chaises longues for sunbathing. These clubs open early each morning, close at midnight, and are only in service during the summer. Each offers a distinct personality and food, with themes ranging from Australian to tapas; admission is free as long as you’re buying drinks or food. The unclothed head to one of several nudist beach clubs on the Naaktstrand, about 20min. south of the main beach (to the left when facing the water). Just north of town lies the Kraansvlak Dune Reserve, a quiet hideaway for a walk or bike ride and part of Zuid Kennemerland National Park. (☎0900 796 4736; www.pwn.nl. Open M-Sa 9am-6pm, Su 10am-6pm.) For a wilder time, try out the Holland Casino Zandvoort, Badhuisplein 7, featuring the likes of roulette, blackjack, and slot machines. Wednesday is Ladies’ Day, with free entry and a free drink for women. (☎574 6574; www.hollandcasino.nl/zandvoort/nl. Open daily 12:30pm-3am.) There is also a free circus, Gasthuisplein 5, with games, miniature rides, and a movie theater. The bottom floor is dubbed Familyland and is stuffed with every imaginable arcade game. (☎571 8686; www.circuszandvoort.nl. Movie tickets €7.50, under 12 €6.) To the right when walking toward the beach is Yanks, Dorpsplein 2, off Kerkstraat, a rowdy, two-story, cowboy-themed coffee shop decorated with an excess of Native American headdresses and tipis. (☎571 9455; www.yanks.nl. Weed and hash from €3 per g. Open daily in summer 9am-3am; in winter 10am-3am. MC/V.) Grand Cafe 25, Kerkstraat 25, features a classy bar and comfy, multicolored linen chairs ideal for lounging with a colorful mixed drink for only €5. (☎571 3510. Open daily 11am-3am. Cash only.)