Amsterdam Gouda

Gouda (pop. 75,000) is anything but cheesy. It is the quintessential Dutch town, complete with canals, narrow and winding brick-paved alleys, a windmill, and odd pronunciation (HOW-da). In the 14th century, much of the town’s infrastructure and fortifications were already developed, and, up until the 15th century, it rivaled Amsterdam in size and prestige. Known for knife making, stroopwafels (see One Wafel, Extra Stroop), stained glass, and, of course, its famous cheese, Gouda was also the birthplace and home of Erasmus. The medieval humanist scholar was educated and took his vows here in town. With its large, heart-shaped central square and lovely architecture, Gouda remains an idyllic place to get away from the more fast-paced Dutch cities, but if your visit coincides with its Thursday market, you will find that Gouda has an energy all its own.

Transportation And Practical Information. Trains roll into town from Amsterdam (1hr.; €9.20, round-trip €17.20) and Rotterdam (20min.; €4.10, round-trip €7.30). From the station, follow signs to the left toward the VVV, Markt 27: cross the bridge over the canal and walk straight on Kleiweg, a principal shopping and commercial street. Kleiweg turns into Hoogstraat and leads to Markt and the tourist office. (☎0900 46 83 28 88; www.vvvgouda.nl. Open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa 10am-5pm; in summer also Su noon-3pm.)

Food. Great options for food surround the inner square of Gouda, with culinary genres ranging from traditional Dutch to Mexican to Asian fusion. For an elegant but unpretentious meal or glass of wine, try Ratatouille 1, Markt 16. Along with its appealing outer terrace on Markt, the restaurant boasts an attractive interior of exposed brick and lovely artwork on the walls. (☎252 9522. Soups €4. Broodjes €4-10.50. House wine €3.20 per glass. AmEx/MC/V.) For a bit more history, head toward De Zalm 2, Markt 34. Located in what it claims is the oldest inn in the Netherlands, De Zalm continues that tradition of hospitality with excellent salads and entrees in a surprisingly untouristed venue (considering its prime location on Markt). Try their special Goudse kaassoep (Gouda cheese soup) for €4.50. (☎268 6976. Salads and warm lunches €5.50-13.50. Dinner €14.50-21.50. Open daily 9am-1am. AmEx/MC/V.) Those more interested in delectable Dutch sweets can try De Vlaam 1, Markt 69, tucked in among the many a bar and pannenkoekenhuis. This bakery is famous for its take on stroopwafels, the delicious local specialty which will cost you a mere €1.40 for a package of five. While these syrupy waffles are delicious all over the Netherlands, De Vlaam uses a special old recipe rendering their version slightly crisper than those of their chewy competitors. For a more traditional pastry, try a special apfel kanjer (€1.30), a delicious and delicate apple turnover drenched in powdered sugar. (☎251 3359. Open M-W and F 8:30am-6pm, Th 8:30am-9pm, Sa 8am-5pm.)

Sights. In the summer, visitors can witness old-time trading procedures (like the hand-clapping agreements made between salesmen while bartering) during the cheese market held in central Markt (Th 10am-12:30pm). The market features a number of tourist treats, among them cheese-making demonstrations and free samples presented by Gouda’s cheese maidens. A good starting point for dairy tourists is the Kaaswaag Gouda, Markt 35-36, in the central Markt area. Merchants and farmers have been weighing and selling cheese for centuries at this 17th-century weigh-house. Staffers provide information about Gouda’s dairy mainstay. The Kaaswaag features a small but delightful permanent exhibition on Gouda and the history of its cheese trade, as well as a fun feature where you can weigh yourself in cheese. Don’t miss the video on the third floor detailing the traditional production of cheese with the accompaniment of a dramatic soundtrack. On the second floor beckon the long and beautifully curved stems of ceramic pipes made and hand-painted by artisans. (☎252 9996. Open Apr. 9 -Oct. 29 Tu-W 1-5pm, Th 10am-5pm, F-Su 1-5pm. €3.50, under 12 €3.) If you haven’t had enough of those large yellow wheels, every Thursday at 2pm you can join the Cheese Walk through town. (Meets at the VVV. €3.50.) While you’re along central Markt, you won’t want to miss the spectacular late Gothic Stadhuis, right in the center of the square, with its red-and-white clapboard shutters. It is sporadically open to the public—although, since it still functions as the city hall, don’t expect exhibits or English explanations for anything in the building. Don’t fret if it’s closed, though; the building is perhaps most impressive when viewed from the outdoor terrace of one of the many cafes that ring the square. Its mechanical clock has puppets that are set into motion at two and 32 minutes past the hour. (Entrance €0.75.) Tucked within a small square just behind the Stadhuis and Markt sits the gargantuan late Gothic St. Janskerk, Achter de Kerk 16 . This impressive church has managed to maintain its collection of 16th-century stained-glass windows, despite attacks by both the elements and Reformation iconoclasts. At nearly 130m, it is also the longest church in the Netherlands. (☎251 2684; www.st-janskerkgouda.nl. Open M-Sa Mar.-Oct. 9am-5pm; Nov.-Feb. 10am-4pm. €2.75, students and seniors €2.50, ages 12-18 €2, ages 5-12 €1.) Gouda’s pride and joy, the city museum, Museum Het Catharina Gasthuis, Achter de Kerk 14, houses a collection that explores the history of Gouda, using everything from Flemish art and early surgical instruments to period furniture, dolls, and weaponry. Be sure to admire the museum’s unique collection of 16th-century altarpieces, some of the few that survived the Netherlands’s Protestant Reformation. To give it resonance, the Gasthuis is located in a former chapel. There’s also an adjoining torture chamber that is less uplifting. After inspecting the artwork, enjoy a cup of coffee in their beautiful little garden, a peaceful alcove just beside Sint Janskerk. (☎233 1000; www.museumgouda.nl. Open W-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su noon-5pm. €4, under 18 and Museumjaarkaart holders free.)