Amsterdam Arnhem

Arnhem’s nightlife may not compare to Utrecht’s, but this sleepy city (pop. 150,000) on the Lower Rhine is a must-see for those interested in WWII history. Arnhem was the site of the ill-fated Operation Market Garden, in which Allied troops famously went “a bridge too far” and were subsequently crushed by the Germans. The capital of the province of Gelderland is encircled by parks and is home to lots of middling stores and some good restaurants.

Transportation And Practical Information. Trains pull in daily from Amsterdam’s Centraal Station (1hr.; every 15min.; €14, round-trip €24.60). The city center of Arnhem lies to the south of the main street, Jansbuitensingel, which runs east-west from the exit of the train station. It is bounded on the east by Velperbuitensingel and on the west by Willemsplein, which runs down from just in front of the train station. Much of the area within this region is for pedestrians only. On the southeast corner is Eusebiuskerk, the 15th-century church destroyed in the 1944 Battle of Arnhem and restored thereafter.

Earn Your Strips. When traveling around Arnhem—to De Hoge Veluwe, your hostel, Apeldoorn, etc.—remember to buy a strippenkaart in 15- or 45-strip denominations. It’s always cheaper than buying a ticket on the bus.

As of August 2007, Arnhem’s VVV had closed but figured to be resurrected in a new location in 2008. Meanwhile, the Tourist Information Kiosk, Velperbuitensingel 25, lies on the outskirts of the city center. To get there, exit the train station, cross the street and turn left. On Jansstraat, turn right and continue until Vijzelstraat. Turn left and follow Vijzelstraat past the many shops and department stores as it takes on the alibis of Ketelstraat and then Roggestraat. At the next major intersection, cross the street to find the information kiosk on the side of the Musis Sacrum, a concert hall. (☎0900 112 2344, €0.45 per min.; www.arnhemavontuur.nl.)

Accommodations And Food. Your best bet for accommodations in Arnhem is the Stayokay Arnhem 1, Diepenbrocklaan 27. Take bus #3 from the station on platform M toward Alteveer or Burger’s Zoo (10min., €1 one-way) to the Rijnstate Hospital stop. From the bus stop, turn right as you face the hospital (Ziekenhuis Rijnstate) and cross the street at the intersection. From here, you can follow the signs up Wagnerlaan, turn left on Waterbergseweg, and veer left again on Diepenbrocklaan. The other option is the much faster shortcut: turn left on Cattepoelseweg. Then, about 150m ahead, turn right up the brick steps and turn right at the top. The Stayokay will be straight ahead. This hostel’s exceptionally clean rooms appeal to a slightly older crowd. The bar (pints €2.50) and reading room close at midnight. (☎442 0114; www.stayokay.com/arnhem. Breakfast included. Laundry €3.50; dryer €2. Linens included. Free safe box at reception. Reception 8am-11pm. No curfew, but buses stop running at midnight, so be prepared to take a cab if you plan to stay out late. 6-person dorms €22.20-31.60; 4-person dorms €24.40-35; doubles €63-90. €2.50 HI discount. AmEx/MC/V.)

There are a number of restaurants and cafes on Jansplein, a small square dominated by the octagonal Koepelkerk. From the train station, cross the street, turn left, and continue until Jansstraat. At Jansstraat turn right, continue for one block, and turn left on Jansplaats. Continue forward until you reach the square. On the southeast corner of Jansplein, Zilli & Zilli 3, Marienburgstraat 1, is one of the most popular spots in Arnhem. The cafe-bar on the ground floor is elegant yet inviting, with stark white walls, a deep red ceiling, and plenty of lounge seating. (☎442 0288; www.zillizilli.nl. Sandwiches €4.50-8.50; salads €7-12. Pasta entrees €7.50-13.50. Meat entrees €15.50-22. Lunch served 11:30am-4:30pm. Dinner served after 5pm. Open M-Th and Su 11:30am-1am, F-Sa 11:30am-2am. AmEx/MC/V.) Several cheap, greasy sandwich stops and Shawarma stands can be found along the bustling Korenmarkt directly southeast of the train station. Pizzeria Pinoccio 2, Korenmarkt 25B, serves up inexpensive pies in a faux-ivy-trimmed, candlelit setting in the heart of the city with plenty of statues of the famous wood puppet. Sit outside on the square to watch revelers heading to adjacent bars. (☎443 2208. Personal pizzas €5.60-11. Pasta and meat entrees also available. Open M-W 5-9:30pm, Th-F 5-10pm, Sa 4-10pm, Su 4-9:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.) Proef Lokaal de Waag 3, Markt 38, at Walburgstraat, is just south of Eusebiuskerk on the southeast end of the city. Lunch means soups and sandwiches at this two-floor restaurant in a restored, all-wood mansion from 1761, though dinner is served too. (☎370 5960; www.proeflokaaldewaag.nl. Veggie lasagna €13.50. Well-portioned rack of lamb €19. Open M-Sa 10am-11pm.) For traditional ethnic food, start at the train station and turn left on the main street and right at Nieuweplein. A left on Rijnstraat and then another quick left put Varkensstraat on your right. Pasam 2, Varkensstraat 33, is a basic Middle Eastern snack bar with ample seating. The friendly staff keeps this joint open super late. (☎446 0758. Sandwiches €2-6.50. Falafel €3.20. Shawarma €5.50. Kebabs and main dishes €7-12. Open daily noon-5am.)

Fresher Is Better. For fresh food, check out Arnhem’s bustling market on Saturday from 9am to 5pm, in Markt across from Proef Lokaal de Waag.

Sights. In September 1944, the Nazis bombed the town in what has become known as the Battle of Arnhem. Like many Dutch cities, Arnhem had to be completely rebuilt after the war. After its 15th-century tower crashed to the ground during the blitz, the grand church Eusebiuskerk, Kerkplein 1, was restored in the neo-Gothic style and is now the town’s most conspicuous sight. Today its Eusebiustoren, the 93m tower whose 53-bell carillon is the heaviest in the Netherlands, lords over a frighteningly empty square. During restoration, a glass elevator was installed to take visitors up to the beautiful views. (☎443 5068. Open Tu-Sa 10am-5pm, Su noon-5pm. Elevator €2.50, under 14 €2.) The hideous gray building behind the church is Arnhem’s city hall, Stadhuis, which was built in 1964. Against Walburgstraat and between the church and Stadhuis, you’ll find Duivelshuis (Devil’s House), Koningstraat 1. This mansion, with distorted faces and animal-like human statues carved into its sides, was built in 1545. Untouched by the bombings, it was owned by a successful Dutch warmonger who sculpted the images to protest the town hall’s prohibition of gold-coated front steps. Later owners reconciled themselves with town authorities, and the house has been linked to City Hall through a passage since 1830. Continue down Walburgstraat past the Duivelshuis and the Stadhuis. Go toward the right and continue around St. Walburg’s church. At the intersection, cross the street and turn right. Keep going right along the path. Approximately 40m beyond the bus stop, you will reach the John Frostbrug. Rebuilt since it was destroyed during World War II, the famous “bridge too far” has been renamed for John Frost, commander of the Allied forces who attempted to secure it in September 1944. Frost’s small force was the only group of Allied soldiers to reach the bridge on September 17, while most other troops landed much farther away and were unable to assist. His battalion held the bridge for an amazing four days before surrendering to Nazi forces on September 21. Though there is no major memorial at the sight, you can visit a small plaque dedicated to Frost and his men at the start of the bridge.

Nightlife. Arnhem may seem like a sleepy town during the day, but Korenmarkt’s back-to-back bars and clubs get wild and crazy before they shut down at 2am. 5th Avenue, Korenmarkt 26, packs its three floors with New Yorker wannabes sipping designer mixed drinks (€7.50) and groovin’ to 70s, 80s, and 90s tunes (spun Th-Sa) on the top-floor dance floor. If you’re under 21, look elsewhere; there is a bouncer-enforced age limit at this upscale joint. (☎442 8107; www.5avenue.nl. M-Th and Su 2pm-1am, F-Sa 2pm-2am.) Students need look no further than two doors down, however, where Aspen Valley, Korenmarkt 25, serves €1 beers to those with a student ID on Thursdays (€2 for those without). On weekends, this faux ski lodge is populated by a slightly older crowd. Thursday through Saturday nights resound with dance music, and DJs spin every night after 10pm. (☎443 0413; www.aspenvalley.nl. Open W-Su 8pm-2am. Cash only.) For a laid-back atmosphere and good food, cross the street to Le Grand Cafe, Korenmarkt 16. Moose heads, fake Greek statuary, and contemporary furnishings co-exist harmoniously in this low-key but somewhat hip bar with a spacious terrace. (☎442 6281. Sandwiches, soups, and salads €6.75-12.75. Beer €2. Open M-W 10am-1am, Th-Sa 10am-2am, Su 11am-1am. Cash only.)