Loei province’s spectacular mountains, national parks and welcoming towns make it a must on any traveler’s itinerary. At the end of June, the three-day rain-making Phi Ta Khon Festival in Dan Sai transforms the western district into a shamanistic orgy of brightly colored costumes and masks, parading spirits, and dancing fueled by shots of lao khao (“white spirit”), culminating in a final day of Buddhist sermons at the wat. Absent from most tourist itineraries, Loei city, the capital of Loei province, is a hidden gem relatively untouched by visitors. This city is the most convenient locale from which to venture into the cloud-frosted mountains in search of hermit caves, or to Thailand’s version of the vineyards of southern France—the Chateau de Loei Vineyards. Loei’s quiet, fountain-filled streets and friendly residents also make it the perfect place to unwind after a day spent exploring the countryside and national parks.
Loei city is a tangled mess of streets on the Loei River’s western bank. Four large streets converge at the fountain traffic circle in the downtown center. Sert Si Road leads south past the artificial lake and intersects at its end with Charoen Rat Road, which runs the length of the river beginning near the bus station, at the market. Chum Saai Road is home to several hotels and leads east from the traffic circle, while Nok Kaew Road extends west from the traffic circle. Sathon Chiang Khan Road runs north from the center and intersects Ruam Jai Road, a major east-west thoroughfare. Western-style pubs line Rhuamphattana Road. Walking west on Nok Kaew Rd. toward the highway, Rhuamphattana Rd. is the first right after the traffic circle. Maliwan Road (Highway 201) forms the town’s western border.
Unsurprisingly for a town overlooked by foreign tourists, Loei only has one guesthouse. Modern hotels with little atmosphere are in the center of town.
Some of the best places to eat are the open-air restaurants in front of the movie theater on Sathon Chiang Khan Rd., between the traffic circle and Ruam Jai Rd. Pyromaniacs can order pak boong fai daeng (flaming morning glory vine), leafy water spinach that the chef sets on fire before hurling towards your plate. A fantastic night market sets up on Chum Saai Rd., across from Ruam Jit Rd. (Open nightly 5pm-10pm.) Another market, at the northern end of Charoen Rat Rd., opposite the 7-Eleven, sells produce and sells to grilled meats and largely useless plastic items for the rest of the day. The Laeng market is primarily an evening market and sets up at the southern end of Charoen Rat Rd. Six tin-roofed rows of stalls offer the usual meat and produce. Outdoor garden restaurants scattered throughout the city are popular with locals.
Most serving whiskey, some themed, the bars on Rhumphatta Rd. in Loei promise interesting entertainment late into the night.
Chateau De Loei Vineyards. One of Thailand’s first wine-producing vineyards, Chateau de Loei is large by any standard. After surviving a long process of securing permits to import foreign grapevines into Thailand, a thriving vineyard now stands in the middle of Loei’s mountains. A 6km loop leads through the vineyard and ends at the winery, where you can observe the wine-making process and actually taste the Syrah and Chenin Blanc. Though Thailand is not known for the quality of its wines, a walk through the vineyards is pleasant and offers views of marching rows of grapes, and a small reservoir. (Take a bus bound for Lom Sak, (1hr., 60km, 40฿). Get off when you see the blue metal gate with an English sign. The Chateau will be on your left. The vineyard shop sells fresh grapes, organic produce, local crafts, souvenirs, and, of course, bottles of wine. White wine 300฿, red 670 or 1010฿. The actual vineyard is 2km down the road, beneath the sign. Ask at the shop about wine tastings and tours of the vineyard. ☎042 809 521. Open daily 9am-5pm.)
Phu Kradung National Park. The bell ringing that could be heard every week on Buddhist Day inspired the name of this popular sanctuary (“Bell Mountain”). Trails criss-cross the 60 sq. km plateau’s pine forests and grassy meadows. The 5km hike from the mountain base to park headquarters on the plateau rim is facilitated by bamboo stairways. Porters can tote your gear for 10฿ per kg. Visitors who reach Pha Lom Sak or Pha Daeng are rewarded with views of the sunset. (Pick up a detailed booklet on the park from the tourist office in Loei. To get to the park, take a bus to Khon Kaen (70km, 50฿) and ask to be dropped off at the Amphoe Phu Kradung Administrative Office. From there, take a minibus (20-25฿) to the National Park Office (☎042 871 333). The park is packed on weekends and holidays, but closes from June-Sept. Camping 30฿ per person. Tents 225฿ for 3 people, 445฿ for 6 people. Limited mountaintop lodging from 1600฿ for a 4-person lodging to 2400฿ for an 8-person. Reservations should be made 30 days in advance with the National Park Division of the Forestry Department in Bangkok, (☎02 561 4292; ext. 724; online at www.dnp.go.th . Park open Oct.-May daily 9am-5pm. 400฿.)
Phu Rua National Park. The majestic centerpiece of this park is a 1365m mountain. Personal vehicles can travel to the top, where a large Buddha surveys the scene below. Routes up include a 2.5km trek to a waterfall, 5km from the peak. The park office arranges accommodations. (Camping 30฿ per person. Tents for 3-person 450฿, 6- person 810฿. 4- to 6-person bungalows 2000-3000฿.) Contact the National Parks Division in Bangkok (☎02 561 4836) for reservations or book online at www.dnp.go.th. There are a number of small nurseries that cultivate a rainbow of flowers along the road near the turnoff to Phu Rua National Park. Each year in Janurary they are highlighted in a flower show. (The park can be reached by a #14 bus from Loei to Lom Sak (1hr., every hr. 5am-5pm, 35฿) via Phu Rua. A bus from Udon bound for either Chiang Mai or Pitsanulok or a bus from Nakhom Phanom heading for Chiang Rai can take you to the park. In each case, let the driver know you want to get off at Phu Rua National Park. If are driveing the 50km from Loei youself, watch for the large English sign on the right, and take the 3rd U-turn after the sign; on the other side, look for the small, wooden sign on your left. Headquarters, (☎042 801 716, open daily 5am-8pm), is 3.5km from the main road. Chartered songthaew go there for 300฿. 200฿.)
Highway 203. Loei’s real attractions lie outside the provincial capital in the surrounding mountains. The first is Huay Nam Man Reservoir, about 15km from the city center. Rent a bamboo raft (150฿) for a lazy afternoon of floating about. A small flag is provided to signal to food-filled boats to come serve you a bowl of noodles or a bag of fruit (30-60฿). Further along the highway, 35km from Loei, on the left, is the turnoff for the Phu Luang Wildlife Reserve (☎01 221 0547, open daily 8am-4pm), which contains thick jungles, grasslands, and pine forests. Those wishing to tour the area should contact the sanctuary office first to arrange guides. (Transportation is somewhat difficult to arrange, as no songthaew travel this far out of the city, and distances are impractical for a tuk-tuk. However, a bus to Lom Sak runs along Hwy. 203, from which these sights are accessible. Watch the decreasing Km markers (distance from Phu Rua) on your right. After the Km 36 marker, turn right onto a small road marked by a multitude of Thai signs; it’s another 3.5km to the reservoir. The turnoff for the Phu Luang Wildlife Reserve is in Ban San Tom. Songthaew travel the remaining 18km to the park checkpoint when it’s open.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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