While many Thai cities have a rich history, rarely is the past as palpable as it is in Lopburi. In the compact old city, remarkably well-maintained ancient wats and traces of a 4500-year-old civilization can be found around every corner. For many visitors, however, the real draw is the rowdy monkey population, perched on every wat, telephone pole, and ledge, that rules much of Old Lopburi. Both the proximity of Lopburi’s sights to one another and the city’s location, 153km north of Bangkok along the train line, make it an easy daytrip or overnight stop on the way north to Chiang Mai. The convenience and charm of the tiny town may just persuade you to stay a bit longer.
Rail is the best way to get to Lopburi as the city is located away from the major north-south highways but lies directly on the northern train line. The train station is in the heart of the old city, while the bus station is inconveniently located in the new city, an area of little interest to tourists. Frequent arrivals and departures to and from Ayutthaya and Bangkok, however, make Lopburi an accessible destination by bus from the south.
Lopburi actually comprises two gradually converging cities, centered 2.5km apart along Narai Maharat Road: Old and New Lopburi. New Lopburi, east of the old town, is the bustling epicenter of regional commerce, but virtually everything of interest to tourists is in Old Lopburi. Here, Narai Maharat Rd. changes to Wichayan Rd. The old city’s eastern edge is marked by Naphrakan Road; past it, you’ll encounter the train station, restaurants, the night market, Internet cafes, several sites of historical interest, and tribes of insufferable primates. Surasongkhram Road (also called Surasak Road ) is the other major north-south road in the old city and features banks, hotels, police, day markets, King Narai’s palace, and more ancient temples.
While Lopburi lacks conventional backpacker accommodations, the Old City has several comfortable and decent budget options, most of which are old-school Thai-Chinese hotels. Most are within walking distance of the train station and sights.
There are excellent day markets in the small alleys off Surasongkhram Rd. north of Narai Maharat Rd., going away from the train station, with plenty of fish and fresh produce. The smallish night market sets up on Naphrakan Rd. near the train station. (Open daily from late afternoon until 10 or 11pm.)
Lopburi is built upon twelve centuries’ worth of notable ruins and artifacts that span the Dvaravati, Sukhothai, and Ayutthaya eras, all reflecting a strong Khmer influence. Most of the complexes are completely open to visitors, and a pleasant morning or afternoon can be whiled away clambering over the ruins.
King Narai’S Palace. These sprawling ruins, built by King Narai of Ayutthaya in 1666 when military and business affairs prompted frequent trips to Lopburi, contain vestiges of Narai’s elephant stables, royal reception hall, harem quarters, and the four throne halls that King Rama IV added to the complex in the 1850s. The massive complex, much of it designed by French and Italian architects, reflects a striking blend of European, Khmer, and Thai styles. Intricate lotus designs appear at every turn. For example, walls of the middle and inner courts have 2000 lotus-shaped candle holders, used to spectacular lighting effect. The Narai throne halls also draw on a fusion of French and Thai architectural motifs.
The French-influenced, pleasantly manicured grounds host a small herd of topiary elephants. The adjacent Lopburi National Museum features artifacts dating back to prehistoric times—although with an unfortunate lack of English information—along with biographical artwork depicting King Narai and King Rama IV. Another section of the museum describes the relationships between Narai’s court and other notable courts of the day; these rooms have all information available in English. Lastly, the ethnographic section of the museum displays some of the region’s famous shadow puppets and a quirky assortment of oddities, like a two-headed snake in a jar. (On Surasongkhram Rd., 2 blocks behind Wat Phra Sri Rattanamahathat. Open W-Su 8:30am-4pm. 30฿.)
Wat Phra Sru Rattanamahathat. The charming, crumbling Wat Phra Sru Rattanamathat is a partially restored 12th-century, Khmer-style temple, once Lopburi’s largest monastery. While most of the monastery lies in serious disrepair, restored chedis and towers in both Sukhothai and Ayutthayan styles dot the extensive grounds. The wat, across the street from the train station, is worth a visit, even if you only have time for a quick hop from the train. (Across from the train station, on Naphrakan Rd., in Old Lopburi. Open daily 6am-6pm. 30฿.)
Phra Prang Sam Yot. Situated in the very heart of monkey territory, Phra Prang Sam Yot is a complex of three connected pagodas dating to the 11th century. This site is most celebrated for its well-maintained examples of the Bayon style of Khmer artwork. Visitors to the wat are issued a monkey-hitting stick for the duration of their visit. Peanuts to feed the monkeys are sold for 10฿ and should only be given to the primates through the window-bars of the main bulding’s monkey-free interior. The ruin hidden beneath the monkeys was originally a Khmer Buddhist temple sacred to members of the Mahayana sect. This group had overt ties to Hinduism, evident in linga features at the pagoda’s base. King Narai the Great later converted it into a Thai Buddhist temple and constructed a brick assembly hall on the premises. (Open daily 8am-6pm. 30฿.)
Phra Kan Shrine. Across the railroad tracks from Phra Prang Sam Yot is the Phra Kan Shrine, a large 12th-century square pagoda that sits in ruins. Largely blocked from view by a pavilion built in 1951, its shrine is home to several statues of the Hindu god Vishnu. A particularly notorious gang of monkeys, reputed to attack the cameras and bags of many visitors, lives here as well. (On Narai Maharat Rd., at Naphrakan Rd. From the train station, follow the road toward the center of town to the major intersection 3 blocks away. Phra Kan Shrine open daily. Free.)
Wat Prang Khaek. Lopburi’s oldest historical site, Wat Prang Khaek dates to the 9th century and shows its age. Three brick pagodas lie quietly on a triangular green lawn as traffic zooms by in every direction. The pagodas feature Khmer artwork in the venerable Phakho style. The assembly hall and water tank, located opposite each other, were commissioned by King Narai the Great. (On Surasongkhram Rd., at Wichayant Rd., in the center of Old Lopburi. Free.)
While most of the wats of Lopburi lie in ruin, an active temple a few kilometers from town offers a powerful example of socially engaged Buddhism—and a sobering reminder of the devastating impact of AIDS in Thailand. When a monk named Dr. Alongkot Dikkapanya opened an eight-bed hospice for AIDS patients at this wat in 1992, he faced stiff opposition from both the Buddhist establishment and the local community. Local villagers, frightened that the run-off of water from the wat would transmit HIV to their crops, even ceased giving alms to the temple. Dr. Alongkot persisted in his project of relieving the suffering of dying AIDS patients, however, and today Wat Phra Baht Nam Phu is home to a 400-bed hospice. The wat welcomes visitors and has created several exhibits designed for them. The most prominent of these, the Life Museum, displays the mummified bodies and brief biographies of some of the thousands of patients who have died here. Consistent with Buddhist thought, the museum aims not only to raise awareness of AIDS but also to inspire reflection on the fleeting nature of all life. Another exhibit, the Bone Museum, displays the cremated remains of former residents, and a garden holds art made of the bone resin of former patients. These exhibits may be inapproriate for children under 14. (8km from Old Lopburi. Either take a motorcycle taxi from Lopburi (80-150฿) or take a city bus (7฿) from the corner of Wichayan and Sorasak Rd. and tell the driver you’re going to Wat Phra Baht Nam Phu. You’ll be let off at the turn-off for the 4km road to the temple. Motorcycle taxis usually wait at this intersection and the trip to the temple will cost 30฿. One of the guards at the front gate can call you a motorcycle for the return trip. Bangkok office ☎02 749 87667; www.aidstemple.co.th. Museums open daily 8am-8pm. Temple gates open daily 8am-10pm.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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