France By Bicycle

With a mountain bike, you can do some serious natural sightseeing. Some airlines will count your bike as your second free piece of luggage; others charge extra (around US$80-160 one-way). Rules vary by airline, but usually bikes must be packed in a cardboard box with the pedals and front wheel detached; many airlines sell bike boxes at the airport (at least US$15). Most ferries let you take your bike for free or for a nominal fee, and you can always ship your bike on trains. Renting a bike beats bringing your own if you plan to stay in one or two regions. Some youth hostels rent bicycles for low prices. In addition to panniers (US$40-150) to hold your luggage, you’ll need a good helmet (US$10-40) and a sturdy lock (from US$30). For more information on biking in France, try Mountaineers Books, 1001 SW Klickitat Way, Ste. 201, Seattle, WA 98134, USA (☎+1-206-223-6303; www.mountaineersbooks.org).

For those nervous about striking out on their own, Blue Marble Travel (Canada ☎519-624-2494, UK 0871 733 3148, US 215-923-3788; www.bluemarble.org) offers bike tours for small groups throughout Europe, including trips like “Burgundy Biking” in France. CBT Tours (☎+1-800-736-2453; www.cbttours.com) organizes full-package culinary, biking, and sightseeing tours (US$2200-3400) throughout France. It is also possible to create a custom-designed tour. Contact CBT Tours for more information.

Heads Up! While avid cyclists, the French aren’t always as keen on cycling safety. When renting a bike, you may have to insist on being given un casque (a helmet) and un anti-vol (a lock). Don’t be afraid to stand your ground; even if helmets aren’t legally required, most bike shops have a few in their back room waiting for “crazy” customers like you.