Stretching from the quiet fishing hamlets near San Blas to the busy port of Manzanillo, the central Pacific coast claims a stunning diversity, enclosing dense jungle estuaries in the north and craggy, snow-topped volcanoes in the south, all with a common fringe of flat sand and a sweltering heat just palliated by a sea breeze.
In the north lies Nayarit, a quiet state of thick vegetation inhabited by the republic’s oldest indigenous group, the Huichol, who infuse the streets of Tepic with a distinctly indigenous flavor. The area grows the lion’s share of the nation’s marijuana and serves as the setting for Journey to Ixtlán, Carlos Castañeda’s renowned book describing experiences with hallucinogens in a small town between Tepic and Guadalajara. Hallucinogen use has long been part of Cora and Huichol indígena traditions and is still common practice among shamans in their incantations.
South of Nayarit lies Jalisco, the most touristed state along the central Pacific coast. “Jalisco es Mexico,” the message emblazoned on signs around the state, rings true. Mariachi music, charrería (cowboy culture), and tequila all originated in this state. For much of its history, however, the semi-arid hills of the province remained isolated from the rest of the republic, possessing neither silver nor gold, jewels nor water, fertile land nor an agricultural climate. It wasn’t until the 1920s—when railroad tracks extended to Guadalajara—that this Sierran town (elevation 1552m) grew into a metropolis, and today it is Mexico’s second largest city. Away from the sweaty streets of the capital lies Puerto Vallarta, a glittering international city of discos, resorts, and vacationing Americans. Had Hollywood not found Vallarta in Night of the Iguana (1964), it might have gone the same way as tiny Pérula, not two hours away, home to one paved road and almost uninhabited beaches.
The tiny state of Colima is home to spectacular black sand beaches and pleasant mountain towns where tourists can escape the resort scene and breathe in cool, crisp air. The benevolent coast is subject to the whims of seismic uncertainty, with occasional earthquakes and rumblings from the state’s imposing volcano, Volcán de Fuego—the most active in Mexico. The state is also home to the city of Colima, a sparkling, untouristed gem full of gardens, and Manzanillo, the workhorse of Mexico’s Pacific coast. This port has not paused once in 700 years of commerce to wipe its sweaty brow, and only recently has it begun to lure travelers with its golden beaches.
Flights: Aeropuerto Internacional Miguel Hidalgo (GDL; ☎ 3688 6399 or 5127), 17km south of town on the road to Chapala. Served by: AeroCalifornia (☎ 3616 2525); Aeroméxico (☎ 01 800 021 4000), office ...more
The heart of the city is the centro histórico around Plaza Tapatía and Plaza de la Liberación. Two major streets—Calzada Independencia (known as “Calzada Independencia Norte” north of Hidalgo ...more
Public Transportation: Buses: Though usually crowded, bumpy, and always noisy, minibuses, regular buses (4.50 pesos), and big blue TUR buses (9 pesos) are a convenient way to get to ...more
Tourist Office: State Office, Morelos 102 (☎ 3668 1600). Friendly staff with useful maps of Guadalajara’s centro histórico. Pick up the free, English-language tourist papers Punto de Interés and ...more
Guadalajara is chock full of low-cost hotels and hostels, most located within easy walking distance of the centro histórico. Most hostels are located west near Federalismo, while cheap hotels abound ...more
Guadalajara is a city that revels in its culinary identity. Hundreds of taquerías, scattered in long lines around the city, serve tacos of all sorts for a mere handful of pesos. Almost as common are ...more
Guadalajara preserves its deep cultural and historical heritage while embracing the bustle and flow of modern city life in its plazas and markets. The city’s many shopping malls spill over into wide ...more
Guadalajara ardently keeps in touch with its cultural side, and the government actively promotes artistic and musical endeavors. To keep abreast of all the happenings, from avant-garde film festivals ...more
Mercado Libertad, at the intersection of Independencia and Mina East, is a labyrinth of alleys and stalls stretching some seven blocks. The range of items sold is broad and eclectic—pirated films, ...more
Clubs and cafes, bars and burlesque, Guadalajara lays claim to all varieties of nightlife. The cafes and quieter spots generally close in the early evening, but the nightlife crowd dances well into early ...more
Catch a local #275 bus northbound on 16 de Septiembre (40min., 4.50 pesos). Ask the driver when to get off, or get off when you see the massive arch. Last bus back 10pm. A soaring 20m arch next to ...more
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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