Luquillo Overview

Many visitors to Luquillo never see the town: they come for the beach, spend a day lounging in the sun, then return to San Juan. In comparison to San Juan, Luquillo Beach is undoubtedly paradise; it is lined with palm trees, has ample amenities, and during weekdays in the winter offers the solitude that visitors to Isla Verde can only dream about. Don’t be misled—Luquillo does not have the best beach on the island, just the best developed swimming beach close to San Juan. Those with only a short time on the island may find this small town to be the perfect escape.

Transportation. Públicos traveling between San Juan and Fajardo will let passengers off at Luquillo (45min., $3). To get back, sit on a bench on Hwy. 3 beneath the pedestrian bridge that connects Luquillo and Brisas del Mar, and flag down a passing público. If you choose this option, remember that públicos primarily run M-Sa 6:30am-5pm. Driving from San Juan (45min.-1hr., depending on traffic), head down Hwy. 3 and get off at Rte. 193, when signs point to Luquillo. If you want to travel between the main beach and the center of town, a car is very helpful—walking along the beach is not possible without doing some wading, and your other choice is to walk along Rte. 193.

Orientation And Practical Information. Most of the city is located along Route 193, which becomes Calle Fernández García as it passes by the main plaza. The parallel street C. 14 de Julio holds most of the city government buildings, including the post office, police station, and town hall. La Pared beach is directly in front of the town square, and is distinguished by its white wall and big waves. La Pared is almost deserted most of the time. To the west of it is Vilomar Luquillo, which becomes very popular for a predominantly Puerto Rican crowd on weekends. To reach Playa Luquillo from town, take Rte. 193 to its western end.

Banco Popular, on Hwy. 193, is just off the highway at the main entrance to the town. (☎889-2610. ATM. Open M-F 8am-4pm, Sa 9am-noon.) Amigo, on Hwy. 2 in Brisas del Mar, a large grocery chain, also offers Moneygram, a money transfer service (☎889-1919. ATM inside. Open M-Sa 7am-10pm, Su 11am-5pm. AmEx/MC/V.) La Selva, C. Fernández Garcia 250, two blocks off the plaza away from the beach, rents surf and snorkel equipment to travelers. (☎889-6205. Surfing lessons $25 per hr. Open M-Sa 9am-5pm, Su 9am-3pm. AmEx/MC/V.) The police station, C. 14 de Julio 158, is visible from the plaza, next to the Alcaldía. (☎889-2020 or 889-5500. Open 24hr.) The post office, C. 14 de Julio 160, is next to the police station. (☎889-3170. Open M-F 8am-4:30pm, Sa 8am-noon.) Postal Code: 00773.

Parking In Puerto Rico. A thick yellow line on the edge of the curb means parking is prohibited. In actuality, almost all locals park anywhere. However, if you’d rather not pay a fine, it’s best to heed the yellow markings—police are beginning to crack down on parking violations.

Accommodations And Food. Considering its popularity, Luquillo has surprisingly few accommodations options. Unless you are looking for a long-term stay or wish to camp, you should consider finding accommodations in Fajardo or San Juan and commuting to the beach. Those looking for rentals should consult the rental agencies listed in San Juan, all of which have many listings in various price ranges (3 to 5) for Luquillo. Luquillo Sunrise Beach Inn 4, on Ocean Blvd. A2, just northeast of the Plaza J.T. Piñero in town is virtually the only option for a beachfront short-term stay in Luquillo. Across the street from the eastern end of La Pared beach at Costa Azul, all 14 rooms offer ocean views and beach access at a fair price. (☎409-2929 or 889-1713; www.luquillosunrise.com.Wi-Fi in king deluxe, common terrace, and conference room. Doubles $95-125. AmEx/MC/V.) Camping at Balneario La Monserrate is usually like attending a big, family-oriented party. The beach has a large grass camping area with concrete picnic tables, gazebos, and grills scattered throughout. (☎889-5871. Call ahead. $13, with electricity $17.)

Most of the food in Luquillo comes straight from the sea and can be found at the famous kioskos, food kiosks that line Hwy. 3 at the western edge of Playa Luquillo. Over 60 kiosks, ranging from full restaurants to grill stands, serve traditional food (full lunches $3-5) and fried empanadillas stuffed with just about anything ($1-2). Hours vary with the size of the crowd, but when the beach is open, chances are that a few food kiosks will be also. In town, TErik’s Gyros & Deli , C. Fernández García 352, is three blocks south of the plaza on the eastern end of town. Erik’s provides delicious deli sandwiches and Greek specialties like Baklava for $3.49. (☎889-0615. Gyros $4-4.50. Sandwiches $0.75-8. Eggs, ham and toast $2.50. Open W-Sa 7am-5pm. MC/V.) For an American bar-style meal, try The Brass Cactus , on Rte. 193 just west of Playa Azul. With US license plates lining the walls, fake cacti on the bar, a big TV tuned to ESPN, and sizzling steaks, the Brass Cactus provides visitors from the States with a little taste of home. (☎889-5735; www.thebrasscactus.com. Wi-Fi. Burgers $7-9. Big steaks $18-25. M-F daily meal specials. Happy hour M-F 5-7pm. Open bar Sa 10pm-midnight $10. Open M-Th and Su 11am-midnight, F-Sa 11am-1am. Kitchen closes 1hr. earlier. MC/V.) The simple but mainstay La Exquisita Bakery , Av. Jesús Piñero 1, on the plaza, serves up big sandwiches and a small selection of pastries. (☎633-5554. Breakfast $3-4. Sandwiches $1.50-4. Pastries $0.50-1.50. Open M-Tu 6am-7pm, W-Su 6am-9pm. MC/V.)

Beaches And Outdoor Activities. The crescent-shaped Playa Luquillo, or more properly Balneario La Monserrate, is the city’s primary attraction and one of the most beautiful public beaches on the island. As a public balneario, Playa Luquillo has lifeguards, picnic tables, souvenir shops, bathrooms, showers, food kiosks, and lawn chair ($4 per day) and umbrella ($8 per day) rental. It is also one of the most popular beaches on the island, and on weekends in the summer it can become packed with Puerto Ricans. Still, anyone who comes to Luquillo prepared to deal with the crowds should enjoy this picturesque setting. To reach the beach, take Rte. 193 (off Hwy. 3) all the way to the west. (☎889-5871. Parking $2, minivans $3. Open daily 8:30am-5:30pm.)

Playa Luquillo is also home to the remarkable Mar Sin Barreras (Sea Without Barriers), the island’s only wheelchair-accessible beach (☎889-4329). The idea originated when 14-year-old Rosimar Hernández wrote a letter to then-governor Pedro Rosselló, pointing out that people in wheelchairs, including herself, could not enjoy the natural attractions of Puerto Rico. Today Hernández’s dream has become a reality. Mar Sin Barreras has incredible facilities—including a ramp to the water, a clubhouse, and showers—all specifically designed to help handicapped people and elderly citizens enjoy the water. Bathrooms and changerooms only for use by the handicapped and elderly.

East of Balneario la Monserrate, but not contiguous with it, Playa Azul is a cleaner beach with better sand, slightly larger waves, and usually much smaller crowds. However, it is not officially a public beach and thus lacks the facilities of Monserrate. If you don’t mind that this beach does not have public bathrooms, the palm-lined strip and promenade of Playa Vilomar and La Pared to the east may be the best option. Luquillo is also a popular destination for surfers and snorkelers. The next beach to the east, La Pared, in front of the central plaza, has good waves and a sandy bottom ideal for beginners. The surfing extends for about 2 mi. to the east and just gets better. Farther to the east, try La Selva, another surfers’ favorite with both sand and reef bottom. Or, just walk along the beach until you find a break that suits your fancy.

Just outside of town, Hacienda Carabalí offers horseback rides on Paso Fino horses over the foothills of El Yunque along the Río Mameyes. From Luquillo take Hwy. 3 west about 5min. past the kioskos, turn left on Rte. 992, take the first right up the hill, and go through the second gate. (☎889-5820. 1hr. rides need no reservation; $30, ages 3-12 $20. 2hr. rides must be reserved in advance; daily 10am, 12:30, 2:30pm; $60/40. Am/Ex/MC/V.)

Turtle Patrol. Every two weeks, on the sands of La Selva beach, you might catch sight of large tracks in the sand that look like tractor treads. These are actually marks left behind by sea turtles emerging from the ocean to lay their eggs. La Selva is one of the most important turtle nesting grounds in the Caribbean: the large waves in the area help the giant creatures out of the water, and because of the minimal light pollution, new hatchlings find their way into the water without the potentially fatal distraction of artificial light sources. If you’re willing to pry yourself out of bed before sunrise, you can join the Sierra Club of Puerto Rico in witnessing baby hatchlings as they crawl over the sand to ride the surf into the ocean (☎727-2283).

Sights And Festivals. The attractive Centro de Arte y Cultura (Center for Art and Culture), Hwy. 3 Km 38.4, is located across Hwy. 3, just east of the beach. The complex has great facilities, with an exhibition hall, a 550-seat theater, and an open-air amphitheater. Open M-F 8am-4:30pm. Free. Performances usually around $20-25, children $8-10.)

In addition to the Luquillo’s patron saint festival (held on the week preceding Mar. 19), the city also celebrates an annual Festival de Platos Típicos, or the Festival of Traditional Foods, the last weekend in November. The festival brings music, artesanía, and feasts of delicious coconut-flavored Puerto Rican food to the Plaza de Recreo.

Nightlife. Luquillo’s nightlife scene is small and bar-oriented. Most expats and visitors down a couple of beers at The Brass Cactus (see Food). Down the street El Flamboyán, on highway 193 at the corner of C. A, hosts a friendly and local crowd, who come for the open air, pool tables, cheap beer (Medalla $1.25-1.50), and funky tile-covered cement picnic tables. (☎889-2928. Happy hour Sa 10pm-1am. Open M-Th and Su 8am-midnight, F-Sa 8am-2am.) The bars at the food kiosks also attract a number of locals in the evening.