The Pyrenees Andorra La Vella

Andorra la Vella (pop. just over 20,000), the capital, is anything but vella (old). Remnants of the city’s past, however, make for quirky contrasts to shiny new electronics and sporting goods stores. After doing a little shopping, escape to the countryside for a walk in the mountains.

 Coming from Spain, visitors first pass through Sant Julía de Lòria and then reach the tiny road, Santa Coloma, that runs directly into Andorra la Vella. The main thoroughfare,

Orientation And Practical Information. Avinguda Santa Coloma, becomes Avinguda Príncep Benlloch several blocks into the city, becoming Avinguda Meritxell at Pl. Príncep Benlloch before continuing on as the highway to the northeast. There are several tourist offices scattered throughout Andorra la Vella, including the National Tourism Office at the junction of C. Dr. Vilanova and C. Prat de la Creu (☎376 87 57 00; open M-Sa 10am-1:30pm and 3pm-7pm) and the Oficina d’Informacio i Turisme located on the Pl. de la Rotonda (☎376 82 71 17; open Sept. 10-June 30 M-F 9am-1pm and 3-7pm, Sa 9am-1pm and 3-8pm, Su 8am-1pm). Andorra La Vella connects with the next town, Escaldes, but if you can’t walk between them, the information office there will direct you to bus stops. At any one of the tourist offices, the multilingual staff offers free Sports Activities and Hotels i Restaurants guides. Local services include: 24hr. ATMs located directly across from the information office on Pl. Rotonda; weather and ski conditions from Ski Andorra (☎376 80 52 00); taxi service (☎376 86 30 00 or 376 82 80 00); medical emergency (☎116); police (emergencies ☎110, non-emergencies 376 87 20 00); and Hospital Nostra Senyora de Meritxell (☎376 87 10 00). Internet access is available at the public library, in the Edifici Prada Casadet on the C. Prat de Creu and C. Prada Casadet (☎376 82 87 50; open M-F 10am-8:30pm, Sa 10am-1pm; July-Aug. M-F 8:30am-7pm; €1.50 per hr.) and at E-Cafe, on the corner of C. Marfany and C. la Llacuna (walk C. Marfany from the Pl. Guillemó; open daily 8am-12:30am; €1.35 per 30min.) The Spanish post office is at C. Joan Maragall, 10. (☎376 82 02 57. Open M-F 8:30am-2:30pm, Sa 9:30am-1pm.)

Accommodations. For a bargain, the quiet Pensión Rosa , C. de la Vall, 32, has an open ground-floor lounge with a bar, pool table, and foosball table beneath a television. Their big rooms include bathroom, shower, TV, and telephone. (☎376 82 34 46; internet access €0.50 per 20min. Singles €30; doubles €36; triples €45; quads €50. Cash only). You don’t exactly rough it at shaded Camping Valira , Av. de Salou, behind the Estadi Comunal d’Andorra la Vella, which has satellite TV, showers, a restaurant, laundry, and a pool, as well as a supermarket. (☎376 72 23 84; www.campvalira.com. Wheelchair-accessible. €5.50 per person, €11.50 for a tent and a car).

Food.  Casa Teresa , C. Bonaventura Armengol, 11, has phenomenal spaghetti (€6.75) and a variety of delicious dishes, including large, creative pizzas (€6-7) and fish and meat entrees (€9-17). Try the sweet red sangria (€2.75). (☎376 82 64 76. Menú €9. Open daily 8am-10pm. Kitchen open 12:30-3:30pm and 8-11pm. Bar open 8am-10pm. MC/V.) Les Alpi , on Pl. Gulliemó, has a delicious vegetarian version (€12), and also serves pastas and pizzas, for €7-8. (☎376 82 30 65. MC/V.)

Sights. Tourists often head to the Santauri de Meritxell, a modern building that incorporates disparate elements of Andorra’s past. The original Romanesque chapel was completely remodeled in the 17th century, only to burn down in 1972. The new chapel was designed by Catalán architect Ricardo Bofill.(☎376 85 12 53. Open M and W-Su 9am-1pm and 3-6pm. Inquire about summer guided tours. Free.)

Hiking And The Outdoors. An extensive network of hiking trails traverses Andorra. The multilingual and extremely helpful tourist office brochure Mountain Activities includes 41 hiking routes, 9 mountain biking itineraries, and several rock-climbing routes, as well as bike rentals and cabin and refuge locations. Most trailheads can be reached by Andorra’s public transportation system. La Massana is home to Andorra’s tallest peak, Pic Alt de la Coma Pedrosa (2942m). For organized hiking trips, try the La Rabassa Sports and Nature Center (☎376 32 38 68; www.naturlandia.ad), in the parish of Sant Julía de Lòria. Vertical enthusiasts may want to try Bosc Aventura’s treetop activities, closed in summer 2008 for renovations. Activities are €22. Call for summer 2009 hours (☎376 385 077). The Canillo Tourist Office, Av. Sant Joan de Caselles, offers half-day canyoneering (€31) and hiking (€17) excursions, from 8:30am-3pm (☎376 75 36 00). Natura I Aventura (376 34 95 42) offers excursions for groups of 5-10 (€25-20), as well as trips for individuals with a single guide (€120 per day).

Skiing. With five outstanding resorts, Andorra offers skiing opportunities galore from December to April. Lift ticket prices range €38-55, and Ski Andorra provides a 5-day pass to all sites (€157-168). Vall Nord is composed of resorts: Pal (☎376 878 000), 10km from La Massana, is accessible by bus from La Massana (5 per day, 8:45am-7:45pm, return 9:10am-5:05pm; €1) and nearby Arinsal (☎376 73 70 20), which is also accessible from Andorra la Vella by bus (every hr.; 8:15am-8:45pm, return 8:25am-8:45pm; €1). On the French border, Grand Valire (☎376 80 10 60) is the valley’s highest resort at 2050m, with 53 slopes, totaling 100km—more than any other resort. It is accessible by bus from Andorra la Vella (4 per day 9am-6:45pm, return 9:30am-7:45pm; €4.70). The more horizontal La Rabassa (☎376 75 97 98 or 38 75 58) is Andorra’s only cross-country ski resort. If you want someone else to propel you, try taking the sled dogs. More recently added winter activities include snowshoeing, snowmobiling, and heli-tours. Andorra’s tourist office publishes a winter edition of Ski Andorra, a guide to all things skiing-related. Call SKI Andorra (☎376 80 52 00; www.skiandorra.ad) or the tourist offices for information on reservations, prices, and transportation. Prices at ski resorts are subject to change.

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