Lisboa Alfama

Alfama has few lodging options and little price competition, but staying here is a nice change of pace (especially after hectic Baixa). The steep, unmarked streets can make each trip back to the pensão a grueling workout, but hikes frequently pay off with postcard-quality views of downtown Lisboa.

Pensão Ninho das Águias, Costa do Castelo, 74 (☎218 85 40 70). Climb the spiral staircase to get to the reception desk. Offers the best views of the city, especially from rooms #5, 6, and 12-14. English and French spoken. Reserve ahead in summer. May-Aug. singles €30; doubles €45, with bath €50; triples (some with bath) €60. Sept.-Apr. prices drop by €10. Cash only; prices may be flexible with bargaining.
Pensão Estrela, R. dos Bacalhoeiros, 8 (☎218 86 95 06; pensaoestrela@hotmail.com). Don’t be put off by the ancient, dilapidated staircase; the rooms to which it leads are quite nice and have basic amenities, including TV. Some look out onto the water. The proprietress is extremely helpful. Spanish spoken. June-Sept. Singles €20-30; doubles €35-40; triple €60. Oct.-May €20/30-35/45-50.
Pensão Beira Mar, Largo Terreiro do Trigo, 16 (☎218 86 99 33; beira@iol.pt), near the Sta. Apolonia train station. Avoid the 4-story climb by entering through the back where there are only 2 flights of stairs. Brightly decorated rooms include a TV, shower, and sink. Free internet, munchies, and breakfast. Living room and kitchen for guest use. Reservations by fax or email only. June-Aug. singles €20-25; doubles €35-45; triples €60; quads €70; Oct.-May prices drop by €5. Cash only.

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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.