Lisboa Bairro Alto

The narrow streets of Bairro Alto are lined with bars, restaurants, and the famous casas de fado. Prices range from modest to supremely immodest, as in the casas. Budget eaters and those searching for veritable Portuguese food should not be discouraged by Bairro Alto’s expensive international eateries; though it may take a grueling search to find the cheap, traditional restaurants, it’s worth the extra effort. Here’s a hint: you can usually find nicer restaurants on the water in the Docas de Santo Amaro area.

A Brasileira, R. Garrett, 120-122 (☎213 46 95 41). M: Baixa-Chiado. A former stomping ground of early 20th-century poets and intellectuals, this cafe verges on doubling as a tourist mainstay. Poet Fernando Pessoa was once a frequent patron, and his statue now sits at his regular chair. Restaurant downstairs serves up platters of Portuguese food. Entrees €6-13. Sandwiches €2-5. Open daily 8am-2am. AmEx/MC/V.
Restaurante Calcuta, R. do Norte, 17 (☎213 42 82 95; www.calcuta1.pt), near Lg. Camões. Listen to Indian music in a relaxing atmosphere while you enjoy Calcutta favorites like the prawn masala (€9.50). Wide selection of vegetarian options (€7.50-10). Open M-Sa 11:30am-3pm and 6:30-11:30pm, Su 6:30-11:30pm. MC/V.
Restaurante Ali-a-Papa, R. da Atalaia, 95 (☎213 47 41 43). Serves generous helpings of Moroccan food in a quiet atmosphere; dishes include couscous and tangine. Vegetarian-friendly. Entrees €9-14.50. Open M, T, Th-Su7pm-12:30am. AmEx/MC/V.

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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.