Lisboa Graça

Good, cheap eats abound in the alleys of Graça. Things heat up after dark, when churches and markets recede and thumping beats take center stage.

O Pitéu, Lg. da Graça, 95-6 (☎218 87 10 67), next door to Pastelaria Estrela da Graça. Azulejo -lined walls and wine-inspired decorations. The restaurant serves a few Brazilian dishes in addition to traditional Portuguese dishes of fish, chicken, pork, and steak. Entrees €8-12. Open M-F noon-3pm and 7-10pm, Sa noon-3pm. Cash only.
Bar Cerca Moura, Largo das Portas do Sol, 4 (☎218 87 48 59). Take the #28 tram up the hill from the stop on R. da Conceição. Hop off when you see the statue and the gorgeous view on the right; the bar is on your left. Cozy, leather-covered interior and airy outdoor seating are perfect for kicking off the night. Snacks €2-4. Beer and wine €2-3. Mixed drinks €5. Open daily noon-2am. Cash only.
Esplanada Igreja da Graça, Lg. da Graça. Walk 1 stop uphill beyond the Panteão Nacional to the Lg. da Graça, then follow the Lg. da Graça to the left. This miradouro has a perfect view of Baixa and the Rio Tejo. Two kiosks serve up a variety of snacks. Sandwiches €2-4.25. Tea €1.50. Open daily 10am-3am .
Pastelaria Estrela da Graça, 98 Lg. da Graça (☎218 87 24 38), 1 tram stop above the Panteão Nacional. The mouth-watering pastries, candy, cakes, and lunch entrees, are well worth a stop. Prato do dia (€4-5.50). Open daily 7am-10pm. Cash only.

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