Lisboa Graça

Panteão Nacional. The National Pantheon was originally meant to be the Igreja da Santa Engrácia; the citizens of Graça started building the church in 1680 to honor their patron saint. Their ambitions outstripped their finances, however, and they abandoned the project before completing the dome, leaving a massive hole in the top. General Salazar’s military regime eventually took over construction, dedicating it as the National Pantheon, a burial ground for important statesmen, in 1966. In a twist of irony, when democracy was restored in 1975, the new government relocated the remains of prominent anti-Fascist opponents to the building and prohibited those who had worked with Salazar from entering. The dome juts out from among the other old buildings of Graça, providing an amazing view of Lisboa from the outdoor terrace. Highlights include the tombs of presidents as well as cenotaphs (honorary tombs for people buried elsewhere) for explorers. The Pantheon houses the remains of Amália Rodrigues, the queen of fado, and the cenotaphs of Vasco da Gama, the famous Portuguese explorer, and Luis de Camoes, the legendary poet of Portugal. (To reach the Panteão, take the #28 tram from R. Do Loreto or R. Garrett. ☎218 85 48 20 ; fax 218 85 48 39. Open Tu-Su 10am-5pm. €2.50, seniors €1.25. Free Su and holidays)

Igreja And Mosteiro De São Vicente De Fora. Built between 1582 and 1629, the Igreja is dedicated to St. Vincent, Lisboa’s official patron saint, though Lisboa tends to celebrate its adopted patron saint, St. Antony, much more. Ask to see the sacristia (chapel) with its inlaid walls of Sintra marble and the Madre de Deus crib. (From the bottom of R. dos Correeiros in Baixa, take bus #12 or tram #28. You can also go to M: Santa Apolonia and walk upthill. ☎218 82 44 00. Open daily 10am-6pm except for mass. Mass Tu and F 9:30am, Sa-Su 10am. Free. Chapel open Tu-Su 10am-5pm. €2.)

Feira Da Ladra. Every Tuesday and Saturday between the Panteão and Igreja de São Vicente, local vendors hit the streets in the early morning for the Graça “thieves market.” Merchants bring piles of goods, from Beatles paraphernalia to African sculptures, and passersby are encouraged to make an offer. Get steals on old wristwatches and cameras, dig through piles of jewelry, or admire handmade chandeliers and crucifixes. (Tu and Sa 8am-late afternoon.)

Museu Nacional Do Azulejo. Housed within the 16th-century Convento da Madre de Deus, this museum is devoted to the art of the azulejo (see Architecture, ). A Manueline doorway leads into a Baroque interior embellished with oil paintings and azulejos. Don’t miss the chorus room on the second floor, and notice the royal skulls on both sides of the room. (R. Madre de Deus, 4. East of Alfama in Xabregas. From Pr. do Comércio, just next to the giant arch, take bus #104 or 105. From M: Santa Apolonia cross the street and take bus #28 or 754. The museum is next to the Igreja Madre de Deus. ☎218 10 03 40; www.mnazulejo-ipmuseus.pt. Open Tu 2-6pm, W-Su 10am-6pm. Last entrance 5:30pm. €4; under 25, seniors, and teachers €2. Free Su before 2pm.)