Lisboa Fado

A mandatory experience for visitors, Lisboa’s trademark entertainment is the traditional fado, an expressive art combining elements of singing and narrative poetry (see Music). Cantadeiras de fado, cloaked in black dresses and shawls, relate emotional tales of lost loves and faded glory. Numerous fado houses lie in the small streets of Bairro Alto and near R. de São João da Praça in Alfama. Some have both fado and folk dance performances. To avoid making a tragedy of your budget, explore nearby streets; various bars and small venues often offer free shows with less notable performers. Book in advance, especially on weekends, and arrive at fado houses 30-45min. early. Minimum consumption requirements tend to run €10-20, but ask ahead of time as they may only apply to the second show, which starts around 11pm. The following places are quite touristy, but they do feature Portugal’s top names in fado.

Café Luso, Travessa da Queimada, 10 (☎213 42 22 81; www.cafeluso.pt). Pass below the club’s glowing neon-blue sign to reach fado nirvana. Open since 1927, Lisboa’s premier fado club combines the best in Portuguese music, cuisine, and atmosphere. Menú €25. Entrees €22-29. Min. €25. Fado 8:30-10pm then folklore dance until 2am. Make reservations for F and Sa nights. Open M-Sa 7:30pm-2am. AmEx/MC/V.
O Faia, R. Barroca, 56 (☎213 42 67 42). Performances by famous fadistas like Anita Guerreiro and Lenita Gentil, as well as very fine Portuguese cuisine, make O Faia worth your time and money. 4 singers. Entrees €20-35. Min. €20, includes 2 drinks. Fado starts at 9:30pm. 2nd show starts at 11:30pm. Open M-Sa 8pm-2am. AmEx/MC/V.
Adega Machado, R. do Norte, 91 (☎213 22 46 40; fax 46 75 07). Founded in 1937, Machado is one of the larger fado restaurants and features some of the best known cantadeiras and guitarists. The many portraits and wall decorations make this cavernous bar warm and inviting. Slightly older crowd. A typical meal, including drinks, is €35. Min. drink charge €16. Fado starts at 9pm. Open Tu-Su 8pm-3am. AmEx/MC/V.

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