Lisboa Alfama

Restô, R. Costa do Castelo, 7 (☎218 86 73 34). Don’t be surprised to see a flying trapeze or tightrope act—Restô is on the grounds of a government-funded clown school, Chapitô. Upstairs serves Argentine steaks (€17-30) and Spanish tapas (€4-8). Huge patio. Open daily. Lunch noon-3pm. Dinner 7:30pm-1:30am. Cash only.
Clube de Fado, R. S. João da Praça, 92/94 (☎218 88 26 94; www.clube-de-fado.com). A relaxed alternative to the fado scene in Bairro Alto, Clube de Fado’s rustic wood and stone parlor takes you back to the days of a less hectic Lisboa. Entrees €20-50. Reserve ahead. Min. €10. Open daily 8pm-2am; fado starts at 9:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.
Ondajazz Bar, Arco de Jesus, 7 (☎ 919 18 48 67, www.ondajazz.com). Visit the Ondajazz Bar for a wide selection of performances including jazz, blues, and poetry readings. Tu live Jazz band. W open mic. €6-7 drink min. Sometimes an entrance fee (€5-7) applies, with no drink min. Dinner and concert package (€25-30) includes starter, entree and a drink. Open Tu-Th 9pm-2am, F-Sa 9pm-3am.
Marquês da Sé, Lg. do Marquês do Lavrádio, 1 (☎218 88 02 34). Fado under vaulted ceilings and lit by candles perched along the walls. A little on the pricey side (€20 drink min., entrees €17-24) but well worth it. Reservations recommended. Open daily 8pm-2am; fado starts at 9:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.

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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.