For travelers venturing out of Europe for the first time, Tangier (pop. 600,000) can be overwhelming. The heat and the hustlers often leave uninspiring first impressions, but the energy and history, as well as the novelty for daytrippers, keep travelers coming. For centuries, the region bounced from one imperial power to the next, resulting in the 1923 with the declaration of Tangier as an “international zone” loosely governed by the US and eight European powers. Law enforcement dwindled, and the city began to attract rich heiresses, drug users, spies, and Beat Generation poets. When Morocco declared its independence in 1956, the new government tried to change Tangier’s image, closing down most of the brothels and increasing police presence. Nowadays, the city has been reclaimed by Moroccans, and continues to thrive—its position as a gateway to Africa will keep the city moving, no matter who’s in charge.
Av. d’Espagne, a large boulevard that runs from the port along the waterfront to the train station 6km away, makes Tangier easy to navigate. Many of the ville nouvelle hotels are located about 1.5km down Av. d’Espagne away from the ferry terminal (a petit taxi should cost 5dh, but if you don’t have a lot of baggage and you have your wits about you, just walk). Hustlers tend to swoop in here. Adjacent to the ferry terminal area on Ave. d’Espagne is the CTM station. Rue du Portugal heads uphill here and forms the border between the ville nouvelle and the medina. You can enter the medina and easily find some of its accommodations by turning right above the CTM station, continuing uphill on Rue de la Plage. You will reach the large, busy rotary known as the Grand Socco, which is the center of activity directly above the medina. From the Grand Socco, you can head down into the medina via Rue al-Siaghin, which leads to the Petit Socco, or walk down the bustling Rue d’Italie (if facing the medina, the street on the left through the large archway), which skirts the medina’s western wall. The ville nouvelle’s main commercial road is the Blvd. Pasteur, which connects the main square, Pl. de France, with Blvd. Mohammed V. Banks, the post office, and cafes can all be found on Blvd. Mohammed V.
Whether you stay in the ville nouvelle or medina, you are bound to meet some hustlers “welcoming” you to Morocco. Your best bet is to ignore them and look like you know where you’re going, even if you don’t. In late summer, reservations are a good idea, as hotels fill up. Accommodations in the ville nouvelle generally offer more comfort and cleanliness, which is definitely worth the extra dirhams. Singles run from 50-80dh. In many places you’ll have to pay for a hot shower, and you will definitely have to bring your own toilet paper.
The most convenient hostels are near Rue Mokhtar Ahardan, off the Petit Socco. From the Grand Socco, take the first right down Rue al-Siaghin to the Petit Socco, which is really a small intersection. Rue Mokhtar Ahardan begins at the end of the Petit Socco closest to the port. At night, the smaller streets off the medina can be unsafe.
Hotels line Av. d’Espagne heading away from the port. The best values lie a few blocks uphill toward Blvd. Pasteur and Blvd. Mohammed V.
The Grand Socco is home to fruit stalls, sandwich joints, and juice stands galore, so pick and choose before heading down to the Petit Socco, where there are cheap eateries on all sides. La Rue d’Italie is the place to go for a sit-down meal, with Moroccan and European fare side by side.
The restaurants along Av. d’Espagne tout unspectacular and overpriced menus touristiques for 50dh and up. Beachfront restaurants run by high-end hotels are what you might expect—expensive and boring. You’re better off scouting around Pl. France or grabbing a hot sandwich along Blvd. Pasteur.
Old American Legation. The old legation is quirky and fascinating look at early American history. In 1821, this became the first foreign property acquired by the United States. The museum contains correspondence between George Washington and his “great and magnanimous friend” Sultan Moulay ben Abdallah —Morocco was the first nation to recognize America’s independence. The legation displays a hilarious letter from the consul detailing his attempts to (unsuccessfully) refuse a gift of lions from the sultan. Visit the room dedicated to famous expat writer Paul Bowles, featuring photographs from Tangier’s storied “interzone” days. The friendly curators will give excellent tours on request, but calling first is recommended. (8 Rue d’America. Enter the medina via the large white steps on Rue du Portugal and look for the yellow archway emblazoned with the US seal. ☎039 93 53 17. Open M-F 10am-1pm and 3-5pm. Donation suggested.)
St. Andrew’S Church. In 1883 Moulay Hassan I granted this parcel of land to Great Britain to build an Anglican church. Out of respect for local architecture, it was built in a fusion of English and Moorish styles, with the roof above the altarpiece composed of intricately carved wood. A highlight is the Lord’s Prayer inscribed in Arabic around the chancel arch. The cemetery outside is quiet and holds some English notables in North Africa. The church is kept locked but if you can find Mustapha, the happy, friendly caretaker, he will let you in and tell you a little about the church. (At the end of Rue d’Angleterre. Open daily 9:30am-12:30pm and 2:30-4:30pm. Services Su at 8:30 and 11am. Donations recommended.)
Dar Al-Makhzen. An opulent palace with handwoven tapestries, inlaid ceilings, and foliated archways, the Dar al-Makhzen was once home to the ruling pasha of Tangier and is now the Museum of Moroccan Art. The museum highlights the societies of Tangier from pre-Roman times to the Romans and Moors, with lead sarcophagi, funerary urns, pottery and musical instruments, and a gorgeous Roman mosaic depicting the voyage of Venus. It is all set around a lovely courtyard with a fountain and zellij tilework. The gardens in the middle are nicely shaded and a good place to hide from the heat. (The easiest way to reach the museum and the Pl. de la Kasbah grounds is to enter the medina from Porte de la Kasbah gate and stick to the rampart wall until you reach the wide open space of Pl. de la Kasbah. The museum is to the right. ☎039 93 20 97. Open M and W-Su 9am-12:30pm and 3-5:30pm. 10dh.)
Markets. The medina’s commercial center is the Grand Socco. This busy square and traffic circle is cluttered with fruit vendors, parsley stands, and kebab and fish stalls. Off of Rue de Fez is the small, colorful Fez Market, where local merchants cater to Tangier’s Europeans. (Uphill on Rue de la Liberté, across Pl. France, and 2 blocks down Rue de Fez on the right.) More pungent are the market stalls south of the Grand Socco, where saffron and a hundred other spices are on sale along with watermelons, dates, figs, olives, parsley, mint, melon, mango, and of course, tangerines—they originally came from Tangier, or, in French, Tanger. (South of the Grand Socco along Rue Ayoubi and the streets off of it.)
Other Sights. Rue Riad Sultan runs alongside the Jardins du Soltane and continues to Pl. de la Kasbah, a sunny courtyard with a promontory offering spectacular views of Spain and the Atlantic Ocean. With your back to the water, walk toward the far right corner of the plaza. Just around the corner, to the right, the Mosque de la Kasbah rears its octagonal minaret. Outside the medina, 17th- and 18th-century bronze cannons hide in the Jardins de la Mendoubia, a welcome escape from the excitement of the Soccos. (Opposite Rue de la Liberté, where Rue Bou Arrakia joins the Grand Socco, through the white gate marked #50.) To laze about with a cold drink and stare across the glinting strait to Spain, head to the Terrace des Parrasseux (Idler’s Terrace), which has benches with a clear view across to Europe. (Off Pl. de France down Pasteur.)
The most popular evening activity in Tangier is sipping mint tea in front of a cafe on Pl. de France, in Blvd. Pasteur, or in Ville Nouvelle, which does have its share of small bars. The Café de Paris, 1 Pl. de France, hosted countless meetings between spies during WWII. Coming from the Grand Socco, look to the left. (☎039 93 84 44. Tea and coffee 5-6dh. Open daily 7am-11:30pm.) Inside the medina, Café Central was a favorite of William S. Burroughs, but today is mostly a hangout for middle-aged Moroccan men. (Off the Petit Socco; same hours and prices as Café de Paris). Café Hafa, an old Paul Bowles haunt, has a great view of Spain on a clear day. Sipping a mint tea (5dh) on one of the cafe’s many terraces is a great way to clear your head of the city’s bustle, and worth getting lost on the way there. (From the Kasbah, follow Rue Tabor for 10 minutes. When you can see the water through the buildings to the right, head toward it; it’s down a street to the left. You may have to ask around to find it. Open daily 10am-8pm.) Cafes tend to attract a male crowd, but female tourists should not be afraid to grab a table and an orange juice, as it is perfectly acceptable. For a harder drink, there are few spots with ambience that attracts both genders in equal number. The hippest place in town is Tanger Inn, Rue Magellan, next to Hotel Muniria. Subdued house music attracts men and women, both local and foreign, for a nice cosmopolitan mix. A good place to sit back and nurse a drink (beer 20dh) at the end of the day. (Open daily 10pm-1am, until late Th-Sa.)
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