Maricao Overview

The remoteness and rugged terrain of this coffee-producing town have preserved its old-fashioned feel. Possibly the only town on the main island without any fast-food restaurants, Maricao offers a rare glimpse of what many Puerto Rican towns used to be like. The town’s largest festival, the Fiesta del Café (Coffee Festival) is in mid-February, and includes traditional music, coffee samples, drama shows, artesanía, and folkloric dances.

Orientation And Practical Information. To get to the main plaza from the west, take Rte. 120 into town. Cross the small bridge, pass the intersection with Rte. 410, and head up the hill. At the post office and bank, turn right to reach the plaza. Tourist information is available at the Oficina de Relaciones Públicas in the Alcaldía on the plaza. (☎838-2290. Open Aug.-June M-F 8am-4:30pm.) A 24hr. ATM is available at the Banco Popular on C. Luis Zuzuarregui, across the street from the post office. (Open M-F 8am-3:30pm.) There is a small police substation in the purple building on the plaza, but the main police station, Luchetti 14, is located on the outskirts of town. (☎838-2020 or 838-2035. Open 24hr.) Across the street from the police is the hospital, Av. Luchetti 9. (☎838-2100. Open 24hr.) To get to the police station and hospital, take Rte. 120 through town; they are just past the baseball field. The post office, C. Luis Zuzuarregui 9, is near the church. (☎838-3605. General Delivery available. Open M-F 7:30am-4pm, Sa 8am-noon.) Postal Code: 00606.

Accommodations And Food.  Parado Hacienda Juanita , Rte. 105 Km 23.5, is an attractive mountain parador. To reach it, take Rte. 120 east of town, then turn onto Rte. 105. This 19th-century coffee plantation centers on a lush courtyard garden; the grounds include a swimming pool, tennis court, game room with ping pong and billiards, and restaurant with a collection of farming instruments on display. (☎838-2550; www.haciendajuanita.com. Cable TV. Wi-Fi. Singles $80, with breakfast and dinner $102; doubles $96/133. Tax included. AmEx/MC/V.) It’s possible to camp or stay in concrete cabins at the private Monte de Estado 1, Rte. 120 Km 13.0, which borders on the Bosque Estatal de Maricao and is operated by the CPN. Families vacation here and make use of the pool, playground, bathrooms, running water, and grills near the cabin. Because no camping is allowed in the nearby state forest, staying here is pricey. Budget travelers would do better to bring some friends and split a cabin. (☎873-5632. Office open daily 8am-4:30pm. Campsites $50, up to 12 people per site; cabins $65, up to 6 people.)

Even travelers not staying at Hacienda Juanita can enjoy the idyllic setting and stylish dining room the parador’s La Casona de Juanita . Like most mesones gastronómicos, this restaurant serves succulent comida criolla on a back porch that makes you feel like you’re sitting in the middle of the forest. (Entrees $9-18. Wine $20-180. Open M-Th and Su 8am-9pm, F-Sa 8am-10pm.) Those passing through town can grab a quick bite to eat at El Buen Café , on the plaza. This is the type of place where locals congregate to discuss weather, politics, and the mistakes of the Spanish-American War over drinks. There is no written menu, but you shouldn’t pay more than $5-6 for a sandwich or a plate of comida criolla. (☎838-4198. Open M 6am-3pm, Tu-W 6am-10pm, Th-Su 6am-midnight. MC/V.)

Sights. Maricao is a magnet for birdwatchers from around the world, as many species of birds take a break along their annual migratory route in the Bosque Estatal de Maricao between November and March. DRNA officers at the Visitors Center, Rte. 120 Km 16.2, can direct visitors to one of three trails. Serious hikers will want to inquire with the DRNA office in San Juan to arrange a private guide for longer hikes on unmaintained trails in the forest. (☎838-1040 or 838-1045. M-F 7am-2:30pm, Sa-Su 8am-3:30pm.) Half a mile up from the Monte del Estado campsite, visitors can stop at the  Torre de Piedra, a small rock tower built in the late 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps. On a clear day, you can see the south coast, most of the central mountains, and all the way to Mayagüez. (Open 8am-4pm. Free.) Maricao is also known for providing seed fish for the island’s artificial lakes. Los Viveros Fish Hatchery, Rte. 410 Km 1.7, raises fish in several large pools to populate artificial lakes around the island. From the east, turn right at the sign for Los Viveros and continue to the end of Rte. 410. Fishing is not allowed, but visitors can check out the different water systems and try to count the fish as they dart away. (☎838-3710. Open Th-Su 8:30-11:30am and 1-3:30pm. Free.) La Gruta San Juan Bautista, Rte. 410 Km 0.3, a tiny waterfall with a Catholic shrine, makes for a nice stop on the way to Los Viveros.