Situated below the mountainous juncture of El Salvador, Honduras, and Guatemala, on the cloud-ensconced Cerro de Montecristo, Metapán survived the civil war yet remains in relative isolation. Ranching is the main livelihood; here older vaqueros still mosey into town on horseback. The town is mostly commercial and agricultural, but with convenient access to the cloud forests of Parque Nacional de Montecristo, it’s also a great stop for those seeking to get far off the beaten path and into the woods.
The bus terminal is on the main highway, between C. El Tamarindo and 2 C. Ote. Buses go to:
The road to Metapán comes in from the south and passes the eastern border of the town before heading north to the Guatemalan border. The bulk of the town is on Calle 15 de Septiembre and 2 Calle, which run parallel to each other, perpendicular to the highway, and lead downhill five blocks to the parque central.
Metapán is usually visited as a stopover on the way to Guatemala; there aren’t many lodging options in town, but the range is enough to find something for every budget.
Metapán is not set up for tourists, and dining options are sparse. There is only one restaurant in town, and a few comedores and pupuserias that serve the standard Salvadoran fare. For groceries, visit Supermarket Palí, in front of the park. (☎2402 1834. Open M-Sa 7:30am-8pm, Su 8am-6pm).
Metapán’s church, the Iglesia de San Pedro, located in front of the park between 1 and 3 C. Pte., dates to 1743. Restored in 1963, the church has a vaulted ceiling, elaborate golden side altars, and catacombs, one of which is easily accessible via a wooden trap door in the tiled floor of the center aisle. To tour the catacombs, stop by after 9am during the week and ask for the caretaker, who can show you around and explain the history of the church (in Spanish only). During the last week of June, the church is decorated with flowers for the nine-day Festival de San Pedro, celebrating the town’s patron saint. The days of processions, music, carnival, and an acclaimed rodeo conclude with a closing parade, complete with fireworks and marching bands.
Take bus #235 south toward Santa Ana and ask to get off at Desagüe, an unmarked but well-known village about 20min. south of Metapán (US$0.30). Walk about 100m along a dirt road, bearing right at the fork. Follow the railroad tracks across the bridge on the left; then leave the tracks and continue on the trail as it slopes to the right. You will pass through a small village before coming to the lake. The walk is about 2km and fairly well marked; ask a local for directions if you get lost.
Scenic and tranquil, the Lago de Güija allows you to swim in both El Salvador and Guatemala; you can also take a lancha around the calm waters. The edges of the lake are lined by Cerro de Las Figuras, a series of faded pre-Columbian rock carvings on the boulders lining the lake’s small peninsula. Though the most impressive and well-preserved carvings now sit in museums, there are still many interesting carvings of snails and men. You can view the carvings up close, touching the ancient art and hunting for new designs. Don’t be fooled by the clever forgeries: the peace sign carved into one of the rocks is probably not pre-Columbian. If you look closely, you may notice some obsidian fragments, pieces of tools, or pottery along the shore. The walk out to the point along Cerro de las Figuras’ west shore is a pleasant 30min. stroll encompassing all of the major carvings, as well as views across the lake to Guatemala. Lanchas are usually available for lake tours; ask local fishermen, who will take you around for about US$5-7 per hr. The last bus passes Desagüe around 6pm.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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