A tiny village carved into the peak of a granite mountain, Monsanto would warrant a daytrip even without its amazing castle ruins. Deemed “the most Portuguese village in Portugal” in 1938, Monsanto captures the Portuguese spirit with its stone houses, friendly residents, and incredible sweeping views of the countryside. Starting from the town’s center, the 15th-century Igreja de São Salvador, walk uphill and follow the pedestrian signs to the castle. The ruins are one of the most beautiful sites in Portugal. The castle that once crowned the city was destroyed in a massive explosion of stored munitions in the 19th century. The 12th- and 13th-century Roman-inspired Capela de São Miguel and the empty graves carved into the rock by its entrance are of particular interest. Cross the short path to the left of the castle, just after the Capela de São Miguel, to see the Capela de São João, a ruined chapel overgrown with vegetation. Only a few buses go to Monsanto, and trips usually require overnight stays. Casa da Maria , Av. Fernando Ramos Rocha, 11, is on the street leading into town, about 50m down from the bus stop. Dona Maria and her English-speaking husband Erizo rent out the house to visitors. The town is tiny, so just ask around for them or try calling. Breakfast included. (Dona Maria ☎965 62 46 07, Erizo 966 44 36 63. TV, A/C, kitchen, 2 bathrooms. €25 per person per night. Cash only.) Divino Monsanto , R. do Arco, 2, is attached to a luxury hotel, and serves typical Portuguese plates, in addtion to some not-so-typical ones, like the vegetable tart (€12.50), in a classy setting. Lunch options, mostly fish or meat dishes with rice and salad, for €8.50 (☎277 31 44 71. Entrees €8-15. Open daily 1-3pm and 7:30-10pm.) The bus to Monsanto leaves from Castelo Branco’s bus station (1hr.; M-F 12:30pm, returns to Castelo Branco 2:30pm; €4.50). The drop-off and pickup spot is in a small parking lot on top of a steep hill. From there, it’s a short walk to anywhere in town, including the tourist office. Just follow the signs up the road, past the church and to the left. Be aware: there is only one bus per day from Monsanto. Alternatively, buses can be taken to Adeia do Bispo, and from there a taxi (€14). There is a tourist office uphill from the central church that provides maps and information. English, French, and Spanish are spoken by friendly staff. Internet is available. (☎277 31 46 42. Open daily in summer 10am-1pm and 2-6pm, in winter 9:30am-1pm and 2-5:30pm.)
For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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