The Monteverde region, located 184km northwest of San José and due north of Puntarenas, is the reason that many travelers come to Costa Rica in the first place. Dry season guarantees more animal sightings and fewer cancellations for lightning, but it also attracts many more tourists, making reservations a must for almost everything. Conversely, the rainy season offers a leisurely schedule and more exhilirating adventures as the zip lines are significantly faster in the rain. Private reserves in the area, including the famous Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, protect some of the country’s last remaining primary cloud forest, which provides refuge for iridescent quetzals, foraging coatis, and a host of other creatures. Many flock to Monteverde to observe its array of flora and fauna. Others travel to these forests, longing to fly through canopies on ziplines and watch sunsets on horses. Still others seek retreat, finding peace in the hikes, waterfalls, and art galleries that the region has to offer.
The town of Monteverde was founded in 1951 when a group of US Quakers, many of whom had served jail time for refusing to enlist in the armed forces, exiled themselves to the region. They used existing oxcart trails to bring in cows and start up a successful cheese business. Though the largely English-speaking town has retained a sense of its roots, its population these days is as diverse as the nearby wildlife. There is a mix of ticos, tourists, eco-friendly expats, artists, biological researchers, and students gathered together in a sundry array of jungle lodges, local dives, and ordinary residential communities. The small town of Santa Elena hosts many of the area’s tourist facilities and practical amenities while retaining an intimate ambience. Its central location provides a launching point to nearby reserves, including Monteverde Reserve, Santa Elena Reserve, and El Bosque Eterno de los Niños. All are connected mostly by dirt roads, preserving a dependent community throughout the region without infringing on the area’s natural splendor. Beware of its mystical spell; many visitors have been known to extend their stays indefinitely.
Direct buses to Santa Elena and Monteverde run from San José (4hr.; 6:30am, 2:30pm; ¢2200), Puntarenas (7:50am, 1:50, 2:15pm; ¢1055), and Tilarán (3hr.; 4am, 1-2:30pm; ¢1200). From Liberia, you can take a San José-bound bus as far as Lagarto, and then take a bus to Monteverde (9:30am, 3:30pm; ¢1200), or go to Puntarenas and catch a bus from there to Monteverde. To get to Monteverde Reserve, you must change buses in Santa Elena (approximately 20min., times listed under Monteverde Reserve; purchase tickets on the bus to Monteverde). Leaving Monteverde, buses head to: San José (4hr.; 6:30am, 2:30pm; ¢2200); Puntarenas (3hr.; 4:30am, 6, 3pm; ¢1055); Tilarán (3hr.; 7am, 4pm; ¢1200). Buy return tickets from Monteverde to Puntarenas the morning of your bus and to San José the day before at the Transmonteverde B.S.A. ticket office, located across the street from Camino Verde in Santa Elena (☎2645 5159. Open M-F 5:45-7am, 8-11:30am, and 1:30-5pm; Sa-Su 5:45-7am, 8-11:30am, and 1:30-3pm.) Many companies offer more adventurous ways to reach popular destinations, such as Jeep-Boat-Jeep or Horse-Boat-Car (usually US$25). Taxis wait outside the church in Santa Elena. Be wary of taxi-drivers looking to charge tourists unreasonable fares. Ask the tourist office what it should cost to take a taxi to your destination, but it should not be more than ¢3500.
Buses arrive in the town of Santa Elena, which has most of the affordable local services, hotels, and restaurants. From here, an unpaved road heads 6km southeast to the Monteverde Reserve. The actual settlement of Monteverde is strung along this road, with more expensive restaurants and hotels. Unless otherwise noted, the following services are in Santa Elena.
With dozens of lodgings to choose from, travelers of all kinds can find a temporary home that fits their personality and budget in the cloud forests. Pricier hotels line the road to Monteverde, while most budget accommodations are in or near Santa Elena. Making reservations ahead of time is a good idea during the high season, but low season visitors will find enterprising hordes waiting to solicit them at the bus stop. No need to be wary—most representatives are just trying to keep their businesses afloat. Prices are usually fixed. Most establishments list prices in US$ because the value of the colón is depreciating so rapidly, but most are happy to accept colónes as well.
If you’re too exhausted from your daytime excursions to hit the dance floors, don’t feel guilty: you’re not missing much. The nightlife in Monteverde is fairly minimal. A few small-scale clubs host modest crowds where ticos and American tourists engage in awkward courtship rituals and heat up hesitant dance floors. Even so, the few modest options can be entertaining.
The reserve is 6km uphill from Santa Elena. Walk, take a taxi (¢3500), or take a public bus from Santa Elena outside Camino Verde (every 2hr.; 6:15, 7:20, 9:20, 11:30am, 1:20, 3pm; return buses 6:45, 7:45am, 11, noon, 4pm; US$1). The Visitor Center (☎2645 5122 or 2645 5112 for reservations; www.cct.or.cr) provides general info, maps, and binoculars. US$17, students or ages 6-12 US$9, under 6 free. 3hr. guided tours daily 7:30am, noon, 1:30pm; US$17 per person; proceeds benefit an environmental education program geared toward rural communities, as well as a recycling program. Reservations the day before recommended during dry season. Many local hotels and hostels arrange private tours. The reserve lets in only 160 people at a time; get there early if you don’t want to wait for entry. Reserve open daily 7am-4pm. Night hikes 7:15pm, US$20 with transportation: if you’ve already been to the reserve that day, you don’t have to pay the fee again. The Visitor Center lodge has dorms with 40 beds and 6 communal showers (3 female and 3 male). US$64 for private room, US$53 for shared room, includes entrance fee and 3 meals.
Positioned directly on the continental divide, this enthralling private reserve encompasses 4025 hectares of land, protecting over 2500 plant types and over 400 animal species. The population of this wildlife sanctuary includes jaguars, mountain lions, peccaries, and the elusive quetzal, a shimmering red-and-green-colored bird that falls backward off perches when startled in order to protect its long, iridescent tail feathers from damage. Though visitors frequently see animals like coatis and white-faced monkeys, spotting inhabitants of this dense forest can prove difficult, and many visitors find that guides can prove invaluable as nature-translators or human binoculars, able to pick out creatures hidden in the trees and hear monkey calls from the ground. Other visitors find that these mystical forests cloaked in clouds and bathed in mist are best appreciated uninterpreted and are content to wander unaccompanied through the dwarf elfin woodlands and the towering canopies of the higher cove forests. Take many combinations of trails to the trail highlights that include La Ventana lookout (along the continental divide; take Sendero Bosque Nuboso directly to it) and a long suspension bridge (on the Sendero Wilford Guindon). At some points, the space between mountain peaks shrinks to as small as 80cm across, making it possible to stand on either side of the continental divide, with one foot on the Caribbean slope and the other on the Pacific.
Reserva Santa Elena is 5km northeast of Santa Elena village. Walk on the road north from Banco Nacional, take a taxi (one-way ¢3500), or catch a minibus to the reserve in front of the bus stop (6:30, 8:30, 10:30am, 12:30, 3:30pm; return buses 9, 11am, 1, 4pm; US$1). Make reservations for buses through Camino Verde after 6:45am (☎2645 6296). The reserve information center in town is 200m north of Banco Nacional (reserve administration ☎2645 5390), and there is also a Visitor Center at the entrance. Open daily 7am-4pm. 3hr. guided tours can be arranged 1 day in advance. Day tour 7:30, 11:30am; US$15 not including entrance fee. Entrance fee US$12, students and ages 6-12 US$6, under 5 free. Discounts available for large groups.
The often-overlooked Santa Elena Reserve was established in 1992 to diffuse Monteverde’s tourism burden. During the dry season, Santa Elena makes for a less-crowded, equally beautiful alternative to Monteverde. Encompassing primary and secondary forests, it offers similar flora and fauna on more sparsely populated trails, where howler monkeys make a ruckus in the liana vines that dangle from the trees. There are four main trails in this old growth cloud forest, all short enough (1-5km) to be done as day hikes (longest is about 5hr.). From some lookouts you can see Volcán Arenal 14km away. Morning hikes make for better weather (especially during the wet season), views, and animal watching. Unlike the Monteverde Reserve, this reserve is government-owned. Proceeds from the entrance fee go toward the local high school.
3.5km southeast of Santa Elena. Contact Monteverde Conservation League (☎2645 5305; www.acmcr.org.) Guided night tours 5:30-7:30pm; US$20, US$22 with transportation. Bajo del Tigre open daily 8am-5pm. US$8, students US$5. Lodging plus 3 daily meals and entrance fee US$47, students US$30.
Covering 22,500 hectares, the under-appreciated Bosque Eterno de los Niños (Children’s Eternal Rainforest) is the nation’s largest private reserve and bridges the gap between the Santa Elena and Monteverde reserves. Its origin and enormous acreage can be attributed to the fundraising and support of children from over 40 countries, coming together to fight deforestation. Guided night tours commonly spot two-toed sloths, tarantulas, and porcupines. Sparser foliage makes for better birdwatching than Monteverde and panoramic views. True to its name, the reserve is youth oriented, focusing on educational exploration with a trail designed for children. Farther away, two field stations, San Gerardo and Poco Sol, have accommodations available, but arrangement must be made with the Monteverde Conservation League at least two weeks in advance.
Canopy Tours. Canopy tours are one of Monteverde’s ecotourism highlights, leading potential Tarzans through forests with less intrusion than other activities. Original Canopy Tour, the pioneer of this arboreal activity, also provides tours, although the newer tour companies offer larger coverage and cheaper prices, making it better for children. In addition to ziplines, suspension bridges crossing extensive distances of canopy immerse visitors in the forest while they scout for glimpses of spectacular birds, animals, insects, and plants. Five companies offer zipline tours, three of which also offer walking canopy tours, leading visitors along a network of bouncing suspension bridges nestled in or near the canopy of the Santa Elena Reserve. Aventura, Selvatura, Sky Trek, Extremo, and Original Canopy Tour all offer similar packages with harrowing ziplines, though each company has its own style. Adrenaline junkies rave about the Aventura “Tarzan swings,” mid-forest location, and rappelling apparatus, while others prefer mixing up various lengths and speeds on Selvatura or Sky Trek cables. Sky Trek boasts the highest and longest cable among its 11 (only half-jokingly named for popular characters like “Speedy Gonzalez” and “George of the Jungle”); however, riders use a metal handle instead of their hand, which is less natural and not authentic. Though Sky Trek’s iron platforms offer stunning vistas, some prefer tours with less-obtrusive infrastructure. In both zipline and walking tours, be prepared for sustained exposure to the elements, especially in the afternoon during the rainy season. (Aventura Bridges or Selvatura Walkway US$25, students US$20; Sky Trek US$30, students US$24. Aventura ☎2645 6959. Zipline tour US$40, students US$30. Original Canopy Tour ☎2645 5243; www.canopytour.com. US$45, students US$35. Sky Trek ☎2645 5238; www.skytrek.com. US$60, students US$50, children US$40. Selvatura ☎2645 5929; www.selvatura.com. US$40, students US$30, children US$25. Extremo ☎2645 6058; www.monteverdeextremo.com. US$40, students US$30, children US$25. SkyWalk ☎2645 5238. US$17, students US$13, children US$7. Natural Wonders Tram ☎2645 5960; www.telefericomonteverde.com. Aventura, Selvatura, and Sky Trek have discounted packages for ziplines and walks on the same day.)
San Luis Waterfall. Tired of tour guides and over-used trails? Be free at the Leiton family finca that maintains this natural marvel. Follow an enchanting trail (1.7km) through the rainforest that dances across the San Luis river and concludes with an enormous waterfall that snakes down two ledges before it comes crashing down. To get the full effect, try not to look up at the top of the waterfall until you have come within 20m of it. Climb around the right side of the rocks to get close and, if you’re brave, dive into the pure, refreshing pool. Most likely, you will have the waterfall all to yourself. (Taxi to Catarata de San Luis US$14. Entrance fee US$8. Trail maps available.)
Ecological Sanctuary. The banana and coffee plantations that once operated here have been transformed into private reserves. Four different loop trails pass stunning lookouts and several cascading waterfalls, taking anywhere from 30min. to 3hr. to hike. The forest is home to coatimundis, three-wattled bell birds, sloths, monkeys, and quick-footed agoutis, small barking mammals that seem to walk on tiptoe as they cross the trails. Night visits offer a much different experience from daytime walks, frequently featuring porcupines, sloths, tarantulas, and kinkajous. (The well-marked turnoff from the Monteverde road is right by Atmosphera C@fe, almost 1km from Santa Elena. ☎2645 5869; www.ecologicalsanctuary.com. Open daily 6:30am-5pm. Guides recommended. Call a day ahead. Guides US$25 for 3hr. tour, entrance fee included. Night tour 5:30-7:30pm, arrive around 5pm; US$20 includes entrance fee. Free printed guides available at the Visitor Center. Entrance US$10, students US$8, Costa Rican nationals and children under 10 US$5.)
Coffee Tours. Coffee lovers everywhere will gain a new appreciation for their morning cup-o-joe on a coffee tour. Start off this educational adventure at one of Monteverde’s fincas to see how the beans are harvested, from the drying to the roasting process. At the end of the tour, the visitors can taste the different types of coffee. (Monteverde Coffee Tour ☎2645 7090; www.cafemonteverde.com. Tours 8am and 1:30pm. Don Juan Coffee Tour ☎2645 7100; www.donjuancoffeetour.com.)
Cheese Factory. The most stable business in the Monteverde community was started by Quakers in 1953 as a logical way to make their milk useful since plain milk would turn sour before reaching the bottom of the mountain. Tours of the factory enlighten visitors and cheese aficionados of Monteverde’s beginnings. Visitors watch the cheese production process through an observation window as they enjoy the delicious ice cream, milkshakes (rum raisin; ¢1300), and 25 kinds of cheese, including a chocolate cheese, sold in the store, all made at the factory. (¾ of the way to Monteverde Reserve coming from Santa Elena, up the hill on the left and before the bridge. ☎2645 7090; http://crstudytours.com. Tours M-Sa 9am and 2pm, US$11. Open M-Sa 7:30am-5pm, Su 7:30am-4pm.)
Horseback Riding. Many opportunities for horseback riding exist in the area. Caballeriza El Rodeo offers a local tour, a sunset tour ( Take road past the police station, bear right 500m on your left. ☎2645 5764; elrodeo@rasca.co.cr. Usually 2hr., 4pm, US$28. Open daily 8am-4:30pm. Offers special group rates; call ahead.) Sabine’s Smiling Horses also offers sunset and waterfall tours on well-cared-for horses. (Bear right 50m after Tina’s Casitas, 200m down on the left. ☎2645 6894; www.smilinghorses.com. Call ahead. 2½hr., US$35. For volunteer opportunities, contact info@horseback-riding-tour.com)
Jardín De Mariposa S (Butterfly Garden). This biodiversity center focuses on the study of all sorts of insects, from the elegant to the nasty. Energetic young volunteers give 1hr. tours of four distinct butterfly habitats. Insects raised on-site include a colony of leaf-cutter ants, a variety of beetles (like the jewel scarab), cockroaches, walking sticks, and tarantulas. While creatures vary by season, the garden promises a good selection year-round. (Turn off the Monteverde road about 1km from Santa Elena; signs will direct you. ☎2645 5512; www.monteverdebutterflygarden.com. Open daily 9am-4pm. Call about volunteer opportunities. US$10, students US$8, children US$4. Tours included in entrance fee.)
Hummingbird Gallery. The patio hosts hundreds of hummingbirds—so many that the combined sounds of their fluttering wings sound like a loud fan. Up to 10 hummingbird species (of Monteverde’s 30) fly boldly right in front of visitors’ faces in an up-close and personal experience. (About 50m before the entrance to the Monteverde Reserve. ☎2645 5030. Free. Open daily 7am-5pm.)
Serpentario. Eleven of Costa Rica’s 17 venomous snakes can be found in this display of Monteverde’s reptilian population. The toxic eyelash viper, with hooded scales its eyes, is so well-adapted for camouflage that it often surprises hikers in the wild, though here it is kept (along with its companions) in bounds and within sight. Try to see a feeding, which only happens once per week. The complex houses frogs, turtles, and iguanas. (Just outside of the village on the road to Monteverde. ☎2645 5238. Open daily 8:30am-8pm. Entrance and guide US$8, children US$5.)
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