Mukdahan Overview

Although a small town at heart, Mukdahan exhibits a certain international flair thanks to its prime location along a river stemming from the far-away Himalayan Mountains. The 1893 demarcation of the Mekong River as an international boundary politically separated Mukdahan from Savannakhet, Laos, but the region remains unified by its culture, food, and lifestyle. French-Lao golden baguettes are sold by street vendors and in shops. Annual boat races in October are enjoyed by all from both sides of the river. In 2007, Mukdhan declared itself the “Gateway to Indo-China” as the impressive bridge across the river to Laos was opened. Now, the modern Mudkahan Tower (20฿) provides impressive views of the region. Although there isn’t too much to keep travelers occupied in Mukdahan itself, it serves as a calm place to decompress after a trip through Laos, and a good base for the nearby pleasant Mukdahan National Park.

The main bus station, 33 Chayangkong Rd. (☎042 671 478; baggage storage available for 20฿ per day), is 3km away from the main part of town. Yellow songthaew (10฿) travel to town when full, and tuk-tuks (20-40฿) go to the river. To walk into town, take a left out of the terminal and a right at Wiwitsurakan Rd., the first major intersection, 500m ahead. Follow this street as it merges to the right. Make a left at Phitak Phanomket Rd., and walk 0.5km into the heart of town (about 30min.) Different companies run buses to Bangkok (☎042 630 793; 10-12hr 8:30am, 5:30, 7:20, 8, 8:15pm; 437-870฿); Khorat (☎042 630 1156, 6hr; 5 per day 6:30am-4pm, 238-330฿), Pattaya (646฿); Rayong (10-14hr., 6 per day 6am-7pm, 718฿); Khon Kaen (4hr., every 30min. 3:30am-5pm, 165฿); Nakhon Phanom (2hr., 4 per day 9am-2pm, 55-99฿); That Phanom (1hr., 8 per day 8:30am-4:30pm, 30-53฿); Ubon Ratchathani (3hr., 14 per day 8am-5:30pm, 85-153฿); Udon Thani (5hr., 8 per day 8:30am-5:30pm, 135-207฿). With the new bridge, you can now catch the Thai-Lao International Bus across the border (12 per day 8:15am-7pm, 45฿). Be sure to have your Laos visa before you board, obtainable at the Lao embassy in Bangkok or the consulate in Khon Kaen. (See Border Crossing.)

Orientation And Practical Information 

Mukdahan is laid out on a grid, with streets running roughly parallel (north-south) and perpendicular (east-west) to the Mekong, the town’s eastern border. Along the river bank is Samron Chaikhong Road, site of the Indochine Market, the wat, and the pier. Parallel to Samron Chaikhong Rd., heading from the river, are Samut Sakdarak (Mukdahan-Domton) Road and Phitak Santirad Road. Perpendicular to these are Song Nang Sathit Road, which runs from the pier past the Huanum Hotel to the night market, and, to the south, Phitak Phanomket Road. The traffic circle is located at the intersection of Phitak Phanomket and Phitak Santirad Rd. The bus station is on the main highway, Chayangkong Road (Route 212), 3km northwest of the main area of town.

There is an irregularly staffed Tourist Information Center on Pitakphomkhet Rd. next to the traffic circle (☎042 632 700; open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm), and you can also obtain your maps and brochures at the TAT in Ubon Ratchathani. A few travel agencies, including Orchid Travel, 14 Pitak Phonomkhet Rd. (☎042 633 144), line Phitak Phanomkhet Rd. and can book tours and international airline tickets. Bangkok Bank, 33 Song Nang Sathit Rd., two blocks up the road from the pier and one block past Huanum Hotel, has an AmEx/MC/V 24hr. ATM and exchanges currency and traveler’s checks. (☎042 611 554. Open M-F 8:30am-3:30pm.)

Other services include: the eclectic Indochine Market, which sets up every day at the waterfront and sells trinkets like mini disco balls, Buddha images, and dinnerware; bike rentals at the Huanum Hotel (100฿ per day); Sa-art Laundry, 77 Samut Sakdart Rd., one block from the traffic circle toward the river and a couple of blocks right from there (☎042 613 647, t-shirts and pants 10฿); the Mukdahan Immigration Office, 2 Song Nang Sathit Rd., across from the ferry pier, which provides visa extensions (☎042 611 074; bring 1 photo and 1 passport copy for a 30-day visa extension, 1900฿; open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm); the police station, 83 Phitak Santirad Rd. (☎042 611 333), between the traffic circle and Song Nang Sathit Rd.; Nguam Hong Osoth Pharmacy, 38 Samut Sakdarak Rd., opposite Huanum Hotel (☎042 611 850; open M-Sa 6am-8pm, Su 6am-noon); Mukdahan Hospital, 24 Samudsukdaruk Rd. (☎042 611 285), just west of the traffic circle; Internet, at 44 Phitak Phanomket Rd., 400m from the traffic circle, heading away from the river, past the Ploy Palace Hotel (15฿ per hr.; open daily 9am-11pm) and at the more central Huanum Hotel (20฿ per hr.); and the post office, 18 Sribooruang Rd. (☎042 611 065. Open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm, Sa-Su 9am-noon.) Postal Code: 49000.

Accommodations 

Mukdahan accommodations are nothing special, but are perfect for the traveler on a tight budget.

• Huanum Hotel, 36 Samut Sakdarak Rd. (☎042 611 137), on the corner of Samut Sakdarak and Song Nang Sathit Rd., 1 block from the pier. Well-priced rooms with fan. The shared bathrooms are clean and have hot water and Western flush toilets. Has a small, bright cafe in the lobby. Internet 20฿ per hr. Bike rental 100฿ per day. Doubles with shared bath 120-200฿, with A/C 280-320฿.
• Ban Lim Suan Mansion, 18 M Kdahan-Dontan Rd. (☎042 632 980). From the traffic circle, walk 1 block toward the river, turn right, and walk another 600m. Rooms are a fantastic value and very well kept. Free Internet in the lobby. Rooms with A/C and TV 330฿.
• Sansook Bungalows, 136 Phitak Santirad Rd. (☎042 611 214). From the traffic circle, head south away from the tourist center. Thai sign. Provides fairly standard, air-conditioned rooms with TV, set around a parking lot. Rooms 280-350฿.

Food

Given that Mukdahan is a crossroads of culture, and it is home to a vast array of food from China, Laos, Vietnam, and, of course, Thailand. The night market along Song Nang Sathit Rd. is especially good (closes around 9pm). Clean, well organized stalls serve spicy som tam and larb sod (tangy, and very spicy minced pork). Paw pia thawt (Vietnamese spring rolls) come sot (fresh) or thawt (fried). But Mukdahan is especially famous for its kanom tuay (roasted pork served with sticky balls of rice, 25฿) and tasty naam (raw pork wrapped in a banana leaf and left to turn into sausage, 20-60฿). Packed in single-serving plastic bags, an entire meal totals an astounding 20-30฿. In the mornings, street vendors sell fresh baguettes, some filled with minced pork ( kun chiang ) to make tasty sandwiches (6-20฿). French-Lao bakeries also vend rolls, cakes, eclairs, and more.

• Pith Bakery, 703 Phitak Santirad Rd. (☎042 611 990), opposite the police station, serves some of the best brownies this side of the Mekong. The gregarious English-speaking owner dispenses sound travel advice. Coffee 15-16฿. Open daily 8am-8pm.
• Mac’s Cafe, 30 Soi Sasimong (☎042 614 571). Heading toward the roundabout from Sansook bungalows, take the first right; it is the soi directly next to the big Buddha at Wat Gow Siweechai. Head here for a good cup of coffee. Western and Thai food 30-120฿, Western breakfasts 70-80฿.

Sights 

A larger-than-life golden Buddha contemplates the Mekong from Wat Gow Siweechai, on Samron Chaikhong Rd. Further down the road, across from the immigration office, lies Wat Si Mongkan Tai, which is particularly revered by Laotians. Look for the high gables and the unique face and short body of the Buddha—all are characteristics of Lao-style Buddhist art. Accompanying the completion of the new bridge between Thailand and Laos in 2007, a new observation tower, the Mukdahan Tower, was built 2km to the south of the town center. On Mukdahan Rd., this tower boasts spectacular views of the new bridge, the town, and the winding Mekong. Open daily 8am-5pm, 20฿. If you happen to arrive at the end of Buddhist Lent (in late fall), you can catch boat races on the Mekong.

Daytrip From Mukdahan

Mukdahan National Park. Known for its rock formations and caves, Mukdahan National Park also boasts prehistoric rock art, wildlife, and cliff-top views of the Mekong. The collection of huge, oddly shaped rocks at the main entrance is the chief crowd-pleaser. The undersides of many overhanging rocks are decorated with faded prehistoric paintings. Trail maps are available from the park office at the entrance. Trails are marked in Thai, and arrows pointing straight ahead direct hikers along the main 2km hike to the Buddha Cave Waterfall. During the dry season, the falls shrink to a trickle. Rickety wooden stairs lead to the Buddha Cave, lined with thousands of wooden Buddha images, a likely clue to the existence of an ancient community in the area. Look for the peculiar statue of two twin monks standing back to back. ( The park can be reached from Mukdahan by buses and songthaew leaving from Phom Phet market, by the river on the southern side of town. One occasionally leave from in front of the hospital near the traffic circle and goes straight to Dontan. From Phom Phet, change songthaew for one heading to Dontan, and ask to get off at the park (2 per hr. 6am-6pm, leaves when full; 20฿). The entrance is a 15min. walk down a small paved road, on the right. This journey can be arduous and time consuming, so your best bet may be to hire a tuk tuk (around 400฿) for a return trip. ☎042 601 753.; www.dnp.go.th; Camping fee 20฿. Open daily 8am-6pm. 200฿.)