Life goes by a little bit slower in Naguabo. South of tourist-oriented Fajardo, residents sit on their porches watching the traffic go by. The small town itself has no real attractions, but the vistas from Playa Naguabo, trips to Monkey Island, and several attractive accommodations nearby make it a good place to relax.
Naguabo is located just off Hwy. 53, along Rte. 31. From Rte. 31, turn down C. Garzot, at the Econo supermarket, to reach the town plaza. C. Muñoz Rivera runs perpendicular to C. Garzot along the plaza; C. Goyco is on the other side of the plaza, running parallel to C. Garzot. Públicos leave from Terminal de Carros Públicos Salvador Clara Cotto, next to the plaza across C. Garzot, for: Fajardo (20min., $1.65); Humacao (20min., $1.40); and Playa Naguabo (15min., $0.70). Banco Popular, C. Garzot 19, at the corner with C. Muñoz Rivera, has an ATM in front. (☎874-2880. Open M-F 8am-4pm.) Econo, on Rte. 31 at the corner with C. Garzot, sells groceries. (☎874-0170. Open M-Th 7am-9pm, F-Sa 6am-10pm, Su 11am-5pm. MC/V.) To reach the police station from Rte. 31, head down C. Garzot, turn right on C. Muñoz Rivera, and continue three blocks. (☎874-2020. Open 24hr.) The hospital, Centro de Salud Familiar, Rte. 31 Km 4, next to the court, has a 24hr. emergency room. (☎874-2837, emergency room ☎874-3152.) The post office, Rte. 31 #100, lies across from the Econo. (☎874-3115. Open M-F 8am-4:30pm, Sa 8am-noon.) Postal Code: 00718.
For many, Casa Cubuy Ecolodge is the only reason to venture out to Naguabo. From Naguabo, go west on Rte. 31, then turn right on Rte. 191, and head all the way up, almost to the end of the road, for about 20min. This perfectly positioned B&B perches on the edge of Rte. 191, 1500 ft. above sea level, and is the only accommodation inside the El Yunque forest. With a small library, forest trails surrounding the property, and spectacular views of the lush rainforest valley below from every room, the tranquil lodge is the ideal spot to get away from it all. Delicious breakfasts are served family-style and include large plates of fruit, oatmeal and cereal, and hot dishes. Expansive rooms are tastefully decorated with wooden furniture and comfortable mattresses. It’s worth it to pay for one of the rooms with an entire window wall and a private balcony overlooking the forest. (☎874-6221; www.casacubuy.com. No phones or TVs. Dinner $18.50, $12 children 12 and under. $7 sack lunches. Doubles $100; with balcony $115. Extra person $25. AmEx/MC/V.) Phillips Forest Cabins , Rte. 191 Km 24.2, located just up the road from Casa Cubuy, provides the opportunity to get up close and personal with El Yunque rainforest. Despite its name, the property has just one operating cabin; about a quarter mile off the road, deep in the forest, with cold water and a double bed. A two-bedroom house sleeps between six and ten people, and is slightly more refined with two full beds and hot water. Four campsites provide cheap and rustic accommodations. (☎874-2138; www.rainforestsafari.com. Turn left off Rte. 191 about 15min. up the road, immediately before El Bambú restaurant. Cabin $35. Extra person $10. House $35 per double room. Extra person $15. Campsites $15.)
The best restaurants serve fresh seafood in Playa Naguabo or Punta Santiago. Within city limits, busy and centrally located Joe’s Pizza Place , C. Muñoz Rivera, on the plaza, offers big slices of mouth-watering pizza, even for breakfast. (☎874-1519. Large pizza $10-17. Calzones $3.50-6. Open daily 8am-midnight. Cash only.)
A público runs from Naguabo to the beach ($0.70). Públicos between Humacao ($1.40) and Fajardo ($1.65) also stop at Playa Naguabo. By car from Hwy. 53, take Exit 18 onto Rte. 31. Turn left, then go south on Hwy. 3 toward Humacao to Playa Naguabo (Km 66).
The serene bay at Playa Naguabo provides a terrific escape. Technically called Playa Húcares, this bay doesn’t have a beach; nevertheless, an attractive boardwalk overlooks the light blue water, Cayo Santiago, and, in the distance, Vieques. At the southern end of the bay sit two large pink turn-of-the-century houses, both on the list of National Historic Sights. One has been kept up and is now the most attractive residence in the area. The other, El Castillo Villa del Mar, was built at the same time, but it has fallen into such a state of disrepair that it now looks like the set of a horror movie. Playa Naguabo has several restaurants with a good view and equally good food. The $4.50 lunch special at Bar-Restaurante Vinny , at the northern end of the beach, is an excellent deal with rice, beans, beverage, and either pork chops or chicken. Add a side of amarillos for just $0.25. For countless locals, Vinny’s is the destination for a fresh catch; visit his garage to the left of the restaurant, where fish fresh out of the sea are sold between 1:30 and 2pm. (☎874-7664 or 874-2428. Frozen seafood $5-15. Beer $1.25-2. Open daily 8am-10pm. MC/V.) If you’re looking for something without plastic tables, the air-conditioned Restaurante Griselle Seafood , where Hwy. 3 hits the boardwalk on Playa Húcares, serves live lobsters right out of the tank for $22 per lb. (☎874-1533. Entrees $7-25. Open M-Tu, Th, Su 11am-8pm; F-Sa 11am-midnight. D/MC/V.)
The island is only accessible via private tour by boat. Contact Frank “Palo” López (see below).
A tiny island uninhabited by humans is certainly not unique in Puerto Rico. But one inhabited solely by their primate cousins is a rarity, and it’s precisely this that makes Cayo Santiago one of the most unusual attractions in the Northeast. In 1938, the University of Puerto Rico and Columbia University in New York City teamed up to create a new research area: they took 500 Indian rhesus monkeys, isolated them on 38-acre Cayo Santiago, and Monkey Island was born. The monkeys thrived in their new environment, and today over 1200 primates frolic on the tropical shores. Only scientists and researchers are allowed on the island, but visitors can take a boat close to the island and watch the monkeys from afar. A 1944 boat wreck just off the shore and a small reef on the other side of the island make this a great place for snorkeling. Amiable Captain Frank López leads 2-2hr. excursions from Playa Naguabo to Monkey Island on his boat, La Paseadora. For only $35 per person, Lopez offers the opportunity to fish, kayak, snorkel, and swim in the waters surrounding the island. Come with expectations of friendly faces, lively music, and personal attention, and you’ll have a great time. (You can look for López’s boat at the northern end of Playa Naguabo on Sa-Su, but calling ahead is advisable. ☎850-7881 or 316-0441. 6 person max. Trips any day with reservation. Limited equipment provided. Cash only.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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