Home to a beautiful stretch of golden sand and calm turquoise water, Nazaré (pop. 16,000) has become one of the Ribatejo’s main tourist attractions. In true postcard fashion, the beaches are lined with hundreds of small colorful tents that help visitors escape the hot summer sun. In Nazaré, tourism is a big business dominated by women dressed in traditional black scarves and aprons who sell snacks and souvenirs and rent rooms or beach tents to tourists. Still, the town’s relaxed feel begs tourists to return year after year for a peaceful vacation under the warm Portuguese sun. At night, Nazaré is just as busy as it is during the day. Local bars and cafes stay crowded all night, and the beach comes alive again in the early morning.
All of the action in Nazaré takes place near the beach, mainly along Avenida da República, which follows the coastline. The avenue runs past the two main squares, Praça Dr. Manuel de Arriaga and then Praça Sousa Oliveira, before ending at the cliffs. From there, the funicular runs up the side of the mountain, connecting the two levels of Nazaré. Sítio, the old town, forms the second story of the city, and its position 100m above the water has kept it calmer and more traditional than the beach area below. The downtown area is grid-like and easily navigable by foot. To get to the tourist office from the bus stop, take a right out of the station toward the beach and then another onto Av. da República; the office is a 5min. walk along the shore and lies between the two plazas.
Nazaré is inhabited by the most aggressive room-hawkers in Portugal. They swarm arriving buses at the station and line Av. da República offering their homes to tourists and locals alike. Bargain with the same aggressive attention they use to court you. Agree on a price before seeing the room, but don’t settle the deal until afterward. In summer, don’t pay over €30 for a rented room.
For groceries, check out the municipal market in the huge warehouse across from the bus station. (Open daily 7am-2pm.) Supermarkets, like Minipreço, line R. Sub-Vila which is parallel to Av. da República. (Open daily 9am-9pm.)
Nazaré’s main attraction is its beautiful beach, where locals spend their days playing volleyball, racquetball, and, of course, soccer. The colorful tents ornamenting it can be rented from the women sitting in front of them along Av. da República (€6 per day, €35 per week). After catching some rays, take the funicular (3min.; every 15min. 7:15am-9:30pm, every 30min. 9:30pm-midnight; €0.90), which runs from R. Elevador off Av. da República, to the Sítio, the cliff top area of Nazaré. For centuries, all of Nazaré stood on the Sítio, well above the dangerous tide below. The charming cobbled streets, weathered buildings, and breathtaking views are perfect for a picnic. Consider making the 20min. trip to São Martinho do Porto, whose tranquil waters, red-roofed houses and palm-studded hillside give this lagoon a Mediterranean charm unsullied by the hordes of tourists seen in Nazaré. Bus schedules are posted at the tourist office.
On Saturday afternoons in May and June, locals dress in traditional outfits and haul fishing nets out of the water, using an old-fashioned technique in an event known as Arte Xávega, named after the style of boat used. An exciting fish auction, open to the public, follows. During the summer, look for late-night folk music gatherings on the beach. Bullfights are also popular and Nazaré features corridas on various summer weekends (usually Sa 10pm; tickets from €10). Bullfights occur the first three Saturdays in July and August and the first week of September. Inquire at the tourist office for exact times, dates, and prices.
Buses are the best way to reach Alcobaça. The bus station on Av. Manuel da Silva Carolino (☎262 58 22 21) offers service to: Batalha (30min., 7 per day 7:30am-7:10pm, €2.60); Leiria (1hr., 6 per day 7:30am-7:10pm, €3.25); Lisboa (2hr.; M-F 2 per day, Sa-Su 1 per day 6:30am-3pm; €8.30); and Nazaré (25min.; M-F 11 per day 7:30am-7:40pm, Sa-Su 7-9 per day 8:10am-7:25pm; €1.70).
Visitors from around the world travel to this tranquil hillside town to stand inside the Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Alcobaça, the largest church in Portugal. This enormous abbey was founded in 1153 by Portugal’s first king, Dom Afonso Henriques, following his removal of the Moors from Santarém. In an attempt to secure Christianity in the region, the king granted the land to Cistercian monks. In gratitude, the monks built a monastery spanning over 200m in length, the largest building of the Cistercian order in all of Europe. It was also the first Portuguese structure constructed using Gothic techniques. Today, all that remains of the original facade are the pointed-arched doorway and the rose window above it. In the sanctuary of the church lie the tombs of Portugal’s most famous star-crossed lovers, Dom Pedro I and his wife, Inês de Castro. Note the engravings, which draw a close comparison between the life of Christ and that of Dona Inês. Surrounding the monastery’s cloisters are numerous Gothic rooms, most notably the Sala dos Monges (Monks’ Hall), and the immense azulejo -covered kitchen and refectory, where the monks could roast more than six oxen at a time. If you can manage it, time your visit to coincide with the religious opera concerts held M-F at 11am and 3pm, or just wander the halls to their somber accompaniment. (☎262 50 51 20. Open daily Apr.-Sept. 9am-7pm, Oct.-Mar. 9am-5pm. Last entrance 30min. before closing. €5, seniors over 65 €2.25, students free. Su before 2pm free. )
To escape the international swarm flowing in and out of the monastery, take a 5min. hike to the Castelo de Alcobaça and check out the ruins of a 12th-century castle. The remaining stone walls provide a serene retreat for crowd-weary travelers and an incredible panoramic view of the surrounding area. Be careful, as the climb up the walls is easier than the descent. From R. D. Pedro V, turn right on R. Alexandre Herculano. At the end of the street, go left, following the “ castelo ” sign. Continue through the intersection as the road becomes R. do Castelo, passing Igreja da Misericórdia on the left. About 200m up the hill the road splits, and there will be a dirt trail to the left, marked by a “ castelo ” sign.
Alcobaça makes a great daytrip, but should you spend the night, Pensão Corações Unidos , R. Frei António Brandão, 39, off Pr. 25 de Abril, has 35 rooms decorated in a rustic style with private bathrooms. Buffet breakfast is included. (☎262 58 21 42. Reception 8am-midnight in the restaurant below. July-Sept. €17 per person, Oct-June €12.50. AmEx/MC/V.) The tourist office is on the corner of Pr. 25 de Abril, across from the hulking monastery. Turn right out of the bus station and right again onto Av. dos Combatentes de Grande Guerra, following the road as it becomes R. D. Pedro V and curves around the monastery. The tourist office is at the end of the strip of shops, across from the monastery. (☎262 58 23 77. English, Spanish, and French spoken. 15min. free internet access provided. Open daily May-July and Sept. 10am-1pm and 3-7pm; Aug. 10am-7pm, Oct.-Apr. 10am-1pm and 2-6pm.)
Buses run to Nazaré (20min., M-F 11 per day 7:04am-7:45pm, Sa-Su 2-3 per day 9:54am-6:24pm €1.70). Schedules are posted in the tourist office. The bus stops on the main road leading into São Martinho do Porto, R. Conde de Avelar.
A stroke of geological good fortune for beachgoers, São Martinho do Porto‘s bay is a lagoon connected to the ocean by only a narrow aperture. Millennia of crashing surf hollowed out the area to form a 2km semi-circle of gorgeous, breezy beach. Rolling hills and steep cliffs extend outward, leaving only a small opening for the sea to enter. São Martinho do Porto’s tranquil water, red-roofed houses and palm-studded hillside give it a Mediterranean charm unsullied by the hordes of tourists seen in Nazaré.
If a tiring day at the beach calls for a night of quality relaxation, then Residencial Atlântica , R. Miguel Bombarda, 6, just up the road from the tourist office, is your best bet. Spotless rooms decorated in an oceanic theme come complete with cable TV, a small veranda, private bathroom, and a buffet breakfast. Some of the larger rooms also include a mini-fridge. In August, prices rise steeply. (☎262 98 01 51; fax 98 01 63. Reserve ahead for July and Aug. July-Aug. singles €40, doubles €50-60, triples €60-70; Sept.-June €25-30/40-45/45-50. AmEx/MC/V.) For something cheaper, try the Pensão Americana , R. D. José de Saldanha, 2, about 20m from the bus stop on the corner of R. Conde de Avelar. While not as nice as the Atlântica, you’ll be hard-pressed to find anything cheaper. The 22 rooms are decorated with dark wood furniture and pastel bed linens, which creates an inviting, relaxing environment. All rooms come with a private bathroom and cable TV. Rooms for 3+ persons come with a full-sized bath tub. (☎262 98 91 70. June singles €15, doubles €20,; triples €35, quads €65; July €25/40/50/60; Aug. €30/50/70/85;. Sept.-May €15/30/40/50. AmEx/MC/V.) If you want to finish your day by drinking a caipirinha as the moon hangs over the sea, Pato Barvo, on Avenida Marginal, offers mixed drinks for €4.39-6 and sangria for €2. (Open daily 1pm-3am. Cash only.)
The bus stop is on R. Conde de Avelar, which runs parallel to the beach. To get to the tourist office, Lg. Vitorino Fróis, stay on this road and head toward the hills (if facing the water, the hills are to the right). The tourist office is on the right. (☎262 98 91 10. English, French, and Spanish spoken. Free internet access for 15min. Open Tu-Su 10am-1pm and 3-7pm.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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