Small medieval rooftops nestled beneath the tower of Cathédrale St-Syr et Ste-Juliette illustrate the skyline of Nevers (nay-vayr; pop 40,000) from across the Loire River. This symbolic religious dominance pervades the city, which is home to the Espace Bernadette—a spiritual haven that draws many pilgrims each year. Settled in the countryside of Burgundy, Nevers is a budding travel destination of medieval streets and Renaissance churches and a charming base from which to explore the surrounding châteaux.
Brasseries are located throughout the vieille ville, but cheaper and more interesting options can be found around place Carnot. The tourist office distributes a restaurant guide in French and English that lists reasonably priced menus. Marché Carnot —the covered market on av. Général de Gaulle and rue St-Didier—is largest on Saturdays and has very fresh produce. (Open Tu-F 7am-12:40pm and 3-6:35pm, Sa 6:30am-2pm.) Magasin Nevers de Gaulle —a collection of stores, including a Champion supermarket—is located at 12 av. du Général de Gaulle, a half-block from pl. Carnot. (Open M and W-Th 9am-7:30pm, Tu and F 9am-1pm, Sa 8:30am-7:30pm, Su 9am-noon. MC/V.) There is a Monoprix supermarket on rue Mitterrand. (Open M-Sa 8:30am-7:30pm, Su 9am-noon. AmEx/MC/V.)
Nevers’s architecture is one of its greatest draws. A blue line extending from the tourist office along the sidewalks provides a self-guided walking tour.
Cathédrale Saint-Cyr Et Sainte-Juliette. With its Tour Boyer standing 53m above the city, the Cathédrale St-Cyr et Ste-Juliette is the most visible building in Nevers. Although the church is a seemingly average cathedral at first glance, history has bestowed several fascinating architectural oddities upon it. After much of the original building was destroyed in a fire, a Gothic facade was added to the Romanesque rear. The cathedral also boasts unusual stained-glass windows, which were redesigned by modern artists after the originals were blown out during WWII bombings. (☎03 68 36 41 04. Open Apr.-Sept. 9am-7:30pm; Oct.-Mar. 9am-6pm. Ask tourist office for schedule of tours. Wheelchair-accessible.)
Espace Bernadette. Perhaps the most important sight in Nevers, the stone-enclosed convent is the resting place of Ste-Bernadette, a former sister. Within the stone walls, burning incense and complete silence provide a spiritual sanctuary for even the irreligious. Espace Bernadette also welcomes volunteers and provides dorm-like housing, but only for religious pilgrims. (34 rue St-Gildard. ☎03 68 71 99 50; www.sainte-bernadette-nevers.com. Open daily Apr.-Oct. 7am-12:30pm and 1:30-7:30pm; Nov.-Mar. 7:30am-noon and 2-6pm.)
Palais Ducal. Opposite the cathedral, fairy-tale turrets ornament the 15th-century Palais Ducal, once the seat of regional government. The modest museum within houses an eclectic collection, including a small aquarium of regional fish, historic paintings, and displays of local porcelain. The exquisite exterior is the real draw. (Enter from tourist office. ☎03 68 68 46 00. Open Apr.-Sept. M-Sa 9am-6:30pm, Su 10am-1pm and 2:30-5:30pm; Oct.-Mar. M-Sa 9am-noon and 2-6pm. Free.)
Église Saint-Étienne. This perfect example of unspoiled Romanesque architecture stands just off rue St-Étienne. Though plain-looking in comparison to the ornate cathedral, Église St-Étienne has, amazingly, not seen any major transformation since its construction in 1068.
West of the city along D504 lies Le Bec d’Allier, the confluence of the Allier and the Loire, France’s two most raging rivers. Hikers take advantage of the 1.5km nature trail that leads into the area around Le Bec, starting from the other side of the Loire in the town of Gimouille. To get there by car, exit Nevers by the Pont de la Loire on N7 and take a right onto D976 (dir.: Bourges); signs direct you to the parking lot and trails on the right, about 10min. down the road. By bike, follow the trail that runs beside the Canal Latéral de la Loire to Gimouille, where you will find a sign with information and a map.
Whether you choose to explore the city’s outskirts or enjoy its many parks, Nevers is sure to satisfy your thirst for the outdoors. A walk through the rose-lined gardens of the promenade des Remparts, which stretch from the Loire River to rue de la Porte du Croux, follows a segment of Nevers’s 12th-century fortifications. In the center of the city, just off pl. Carnot, trees shade picnic-ready lawns along the paths of Parc Roger Salengro, which wind through a playground, gazebo, and garden. The scenic Sentier Ver-Vert footpath stretches 3.5km along the rolling banks of the Loire. To get there, follow route des Saulaies along the river west (dir.: Marzy) to sq. Henri Virlogeux.
The tourist office provides maps and information on outdoor activities suited to Nevers’s two rivers. Le Bureau des Guides de la Loire rents canoes, bikes, and camping gear and offers guided canoe excursions down the Loire or Allier Rivers for an afternoon or overnight trip.
Apremont-sur-Allier, 16km southwest of Nevers, is accessible by bike or car. To get there, take rue St-Genest over the river and continue straight as it becomes D907. Veer right onto rue Louis Bonnet and right again onto route du Bourges, or D976. Follow D76 until you cross the river again. Turn left onto route de Guerche, then left onto route d’Apremont, which will take you into the village. There is also a vélo route that covers the 1st part of the trip and is highly recommended by the bike shop. To take the vélo route, turn left just after crossing the Loire onto a bike trail that runs along the right side of the campground. Do not enter the campground; instead, follow the trail around the swimming pool (with the pool to your right) until you come to a small bridge. Cross the bridge and turn right onto a road. Stay on this road until you reach a stoplight, at which point make a left. Make a right just after passing the Intermarché. At this point, there will be signs leading to Apremont. The vélo route is a bit more complicated, but the trip is very scenic and avoids traffic.
Set on the banks of the Allier River, the tranquil and unassuming village of Apremont-sur-Allier (ah-pruh-mohn suhr ah-lee-ay) seems to be in its own world. Apremont’s focal point, Le Parc Floral, is a beautiful garden. Butterflies weave through the sundry assortment of flowers and trees, all of which are carefully labeled by name. The view of the castle above makes the floral-scented air feel enchanted. Yet the garden has more to offer than natural beauty. The park also features three follies—decorative accent buildings—that were added in the 1990s as a tribute to 18th-century fashion. Inspired by the drawings of Russian artist Alexandre Serebriakoff, the three follies in Le Parc Floral are a Chinese Bridge, a Turkish Pavillion, and the Belvedere —a gazebo with paintings depicting a round-the-world journey that ends in Apremont. While the castle itself is not open to the public, there is a small museum in the old stables that showcases old-fashioned carriages. Furthermore, the striking view from the castle’s hill over vast moors has remained unchanged since the Middle Ages. (☎02 48 77 55 06. Open Mar. 23-Oct. 5 M-F 10:30am-12:30pm and 2:30-6:30pm, Sa-Su 10:30am-6:30pm. €7.50, ages 7-12 €4.50, under 7 free, handicapped €3.50. Museum €1 more. Discount rates for groups over 20 are available.) Between the garden and the castle stands Apremont’s only restaurant, Le Brasserie du Lavoir , which serves excellent food on an outdoor patio or in the comfortable dining room. (☎02 48 77 55 03. Plats €8-14. Salads and sandwiches €3.50-7.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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