Northwest Highlands Overview

Removed from the tourist hordes that pass through the islands, the Northwest Highlands remain largely unexplored. The scree-covered Torridon Mountains challenge the most seasoned climbers, while harbor towns preserve the fishing and farming lifestyles that have fueled their existence for thousands of years. Easiest to tour by foot or car, the Northwest Highlands straddle the line between wilderness and civilization with awe-inspiring beauty.

Without a car, traversing the Northwest Highlands is tricky in summer and nearly impossible in winter. Scotrail (☎08457 484 950) runs trains from Inverness to Thurso (4hr., 3 per day, £15.30). Scottish Citylink (☎08705 505 050) and Rapson buses travel from Inverness to Thurso (3hr., 5 per day, £16.50) and Ullapool (1hr., M-Sa 2-4 per day, £9.80) to connect with ferries from Stornoway, Lewis. From April to October, the Northern Explorer Ticket, available at bus stations, provides unlimited travel between Inverness and Thurso (3 consecutive days £35; 5 of 10 £59; 8 of 16 £79). Postbuses are another option; consult the public transportation guide. Caution: the narrow roads are full of fast-moving locals and tentative visitors.