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Ohakune Overview

At one end of Ohakune (pop. 1500) stands Mt. Ruapehu, a massive snow-covered time bomb whose fine skiing causes the town’s population to triple in winter. At the other end lies Ohakune’s alter-ego—a statue of a mighty carrot, symbolizing the importance of post-ski-season farming. When the snow melts and the frozen visitors trickle out of town, Ohakune produces world-class carrots, sprouts, and potatoes from the area’s rich volcanic soils, making it a hotbed of volunteer and work opportunities.

  • Trains: TranzScenic (☎0800 802 802) runs daily to Auckland (6hr., 1 per day, $75-85) via National Park (30min., $16) and to Wellington (5hr., 1 per day, $75-85) via Palmerston North (3hr., $43).
  • Buses: InterCity runs M-F and Su to Auckland (6hr., 1 per day, $68) and Wellington (5hr., 1 per day, $60). To get to Taupo, take the train to Waiouru and catch a bus just north of the public toilets—check at the visitors center for schedules.
  • Ski Shuttles: The Snowliner Shuttles (☎385 8573) and Dempsey Buses (☎385 4022) run on demand to the ski fields of Turoa ($10, $15 round-trip). From June-Oct., Matai Shuttles (☎0800 462 824) also run to the Turoa ski fields ($15 round-trip). From Nov.-May, Matai also departs from town (7:30am) and goes to the Tongariro Crossing ($35 round-trip; departs Ketetahi Hut 5:30, 6pm).
  • Hitchhiking: Although Let’s Go does not recommend it, hitchhiking is reportedly not too hard between Ohakune and National Park or Waiouru. Hitching up the mountain is said to be easier in the morning, but success depends on your amount of gear. Catching a ride is significantly more difficult in the summer.

Orientation And Practical Information

The south end of town, where SH49 merges with the main drag (Clyde Street), has the most services and is active year-round. The north end, known as the Junction, lies by the railroad tracks and comes alive during the winter with seasonal chalets and a jumping nightlife. It also marks the start of the Ohakune Mountain Road, leading up past the trailheads to several scenic tramps and the ski lifts of Turoa. Goldfinch Street/Mangawhero Terrace (the road changes names) runs between Clyde St. and Ohakune Mountain Rd. (20-25min. by foot).

  • Visitors Center: Ohakune i-Site, 54 Clyde St. (☎385 8427; www.ohakune.info), has a relief map of Tongariro National Park. Open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa-Su 9am-3pm.
  • Department of Conservation (DOC; ☎385 0010), beyond the railroad tracks on Ohakune Mountain Rd. 1 of Tongariro’s 3 field centers. Open M-F 9am-12:30pm and 1-3pm. During school and public holidays open daily 9am-4pm.
  • Work Opportunities: The seasonal gig (Feb.-Apr.) in Ohakune relates to local agricultural pursuits: carrot and potato sorting and packing. If you’re looking for your roots, contact Mountain Carrots (☎385 9490). Pay is about $10-12 per hr. There are also plenty of work options on Mt. Ruapehu’s ski fields during winter months.
  • Ski and Snowboard Rental: Powderhorn Ski and Board Shop (☎385 8925), at the bottom of Ohakune Mountain Rd. Ski rental package $30-55. Snowboard rental package $40-55. Open M-Th and Sa-Su 7:30am-7pm, F 7:30am-midnight.
  • Banks: Several banks line Goldfinch St., including an ATM at Westpac Trust (☎385 8154), next to New World. Open M-F 9 or 9:30am-4:30pm.
  • Police: (☎111 or ☎385 0100). Clyde St., opposite Matai Lodge.
  • Pharmacy: 21 Goldfinch St. (☎385 8304). Open M-F 9am-5pm. July-Oct. also open Sa 8:30am-12:30pm.
  • Internet Access: Ohakune Video, 27 Ayr St. (☎385-8224), at the corner of Goldfinch St. $3 per 15min., $9 per hr. Open M-W 11am-8:30pm, Th-Su 10:30am-8:30pm; summer hours Su-Th noon-6pm and F-Sa noon-7pm.
  • Post Office: 5 Goldfinch St. (☎385 8645), in Takenote Bookshop. Open M-F 7:30am-5pm, Sa 7:30am-7pm, Su 8am-4pm.

Accommodations And Camping

Ohakune has an impressive number of accommodations, given its small size. For travelers not requiring amenities, the DOC-run, shower-free Mangawhero Campsite 1, about 1.5km up Ohakune Mountain Rd., is ideal ($6).

  • Rimu Park Lodge and Chalets, 27 Rimu St. (☎385 9023; www.rimupark.co.nz). Close to the Junction’s nightlife, Rimu has an open fire, free pickup, continental breakfast, and an outdoor spa for ski-sore legs in winter. Linen $2. Key deposit $10. Dorms $20-30; twins and doubles $45-75. MC/V.
  • Matai Lodge (YHA/BBH; ☎0800 462 824; www.matailodge.co.nz), at the corner of Clyde and Rata St. A clean and spacious YHA with central heating, free local phone access, and a game room. Free pickup from Waiouru or the train station. Dorms $22; twins and doubles $30. MC/V.
  • The Hobbit Motel Lodge (☎385 8248 or 0800 843 462), at the corner of Goldfinch and Wye St., 1km north of town. Once a used bookstore, this Hobbit predates the latest Tolkien craze. All beds come equipped for the winter with electric blankets. A renovated kitchen is expected to open by winter 2007. Free spa. Lodge from June-Oct. $25-35. Motel rooms Nov.-May $70-125. June-Oct. $95-220. MC/V.
  • Ohakune Top 10 Holiday Park, 5 Moore St. (☎385 8561 or 0800 825 825; www.ohakune.net.nz), off Clyde St. A quiet haven on the banks of the Mangateitei Stream, except when the nearby police-operated air raid signal sounds off. Spa $5. Linen $4. Powered tent sites $14. Basic cabins $24-44, $13 per extra person. July-Oct. 20-40% more.

Food And Nightlife

What Ohakune lacks in nightlife, it more than makes up for with its hipster-happy afternoon cafe scene in winter.  Utopia 2, 57 Clyde St., makes hearty gourmet breakfasts, like poached eggs on sourdough toast with bacon and tomatoes ($14). (☎385 9120. Open daily 8am-3pm. Cash only.) Mountain Kebabs Cafe 2, 29 Clyde St., has filling meat and vegetarian kebabs (medium; $7.50) served in toasted wraps. (☎385 9047. Open daily 10am-10pm. Frequently closed in summer.) One of the few places open year-round, The Mountain Rocks Cafe 2, at Clyde and Goldfinch St., rocks out to Bob Marley and serves up panini ($9.50), curries ($16), and an infamous Big Breakfast ($14.50). (☎385 8295. Kitchen open daily 8am-2:30pm and 5-9pm. Cash only.) Open daily 6pm-late. Closed in summer.) Stock up for your own virtuoso cooking at New World 1, 12 Goldfinch St. (☎385 8587. Open M-Sa 8am-7pm, Su 8am-6pm.) At the corner of Ohakune Mountain Rd. and Thames St., in the Powderhorn Chateau, the polished wood of the Powderkeg Bar 1, explodes on winter weekends with DJs and drink specials. (☎385 8888. Handles $4.50. Open daily 7am-late. Summer 4pm-late. MC/V.)

Outdoor Activities

Most people come to Ohakune to ski the fine slopes of Turoa , but the area does have summer activities. The paved 17km Ohakune Mountain Road makes for exhilarating and scenic biking when the ski traffic is gone. Trampers will revel in the Round-the-Mountain Track , which comes through the Ohakune side of Ruapehu, following Ohakune Mountain Rd. for about 3km before diving back into wilderness on the west side of the mountain. Other good walks depart from the upper reaches of the road, including a short jaunt over to Waitonga Falls (1hr. round-trip) from a trailhead 11km up the road. From October to April, Ohakune is a secondary point of departure for canoe trips on the Whanganui River, a tranquil ride running through the heart of the wilderness. Many rental and guide companies either operate in town or offer pickup here . Before you leave, check out the giant carrot on SH49.




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