Regrettably overlooked by most travelers scurrying away to the more touristed coasts, small and welcoming with its authentic village life and natural beauty, Orosi has a great deal to offer travelers. While the peaceful streets, amiable residents, and comfortable lodgings in the town of Orosi certainly deserve a visit, the true gems here are the nearby nature reserves, waterfalls, hot springs, and rivers. Orosi’s seclusion, tucked away among the coffee plantations of the Central Valley, make it well worth the trip from San José.
Buses to Orosi leave Cartago from Av. 1/3, C. 6 (40min.; about every 30min. M-Sa 5:30am-10pm, Su 7am-10pm; ¢360), and return to Cartago from the northeast corner of the soccer field on the main road (40min.; every 30min. M-Sa 4:45am-9:10pm, Su 5:45am-9:10pm; ¢360). Taxis also leave from the northeast corner of the soccer field (☎2379 3993).
Despite the lack of street names, Orosi is easily navigable if you keep in mind a few landmarks and directions. Buses and taxis arrive on the main drag, which runs from north to south through town, turning east as they leave town to the south; you’ll be traveling south along this road past the soccer field when you arrive from Cartago. La Iglesia de San José Orosi is on the west side of the field. Parque Nacional Tapantí is about 12km east of town on the main road.
La Iglesia De San José Orosi. Built in 1743, this church is not only remarkable because of its status as one of the country’s oldest operational churches, but also because of its architectural fortitude—it has survived earthquakes that wiped out entire nearby villages. The church is reputed to be Costa Rica’s only east-facing church. The worn, whitewashed walls, red terra-cotta tiled roof, and ornately carved wooden altar display its colonial roots and make Sunday mass (7, 9:30am, 6pm) a memorable experience. Adjoining the church, the Museo Franciscano houses a collection of Christian relics dating back to 1560, including religious paintings, several friars’ robes, and wooden replicas of Christ. (West of the soccer field. Open Tu-F 1-5pm, Sa-Su 9am-5pm. ¢3350, children ¢200.)
Balneario Termal Orosi. The more accessible of Orosi’s two hot mineral baths, this facility has a lap pool, two small pools, and a kiddie pool all at 35˚C (95˚F), a drastic drop from the 60˚C (140˚F) water at the source. Basic showers and a restaurant are available. Have a piña colada (¢1750) at the bar. (☎2533 2156. 300m south and 100m west of the southwest corner of the soccer field, next to Orosi Lodge. Open daily 7:30am-4pm, additional evening hours Th-F 6-10pm. US$3. US$/¢. Breakfast ¢1300-2200. Sandwiches ¢700-1400. Casados ¢2200-2300. Restaurant also accepts MC/V.)
Balneario De Aguas Termales Los Patios. Slightly farther away and more scenic than Balneario Termal Orosi, Los Patios has six warm pools (41˚C) and two cold pools in a country-club atmosphere, above the Orosi Valley. (☎2553 3009. 1km south out of town along the main road. Open Tu-Su 8am-4pm. ¢1300.)
La Casa Del Soñador. This old-fashioned, intricately designed “Dreamer’s House” is the masterpiece of late Costa Rican sculptor Macedonio Quesada, who built the bamboo and wooden casita in 1989. Now maintained by Quesada’s sons Hermes and Miguel, as well as the handful of assistants who seem to be constantly working away downstairs carving figurines out of coffeewood (from US$9), the house is filled with nativity scenes and campesino figures displaying a mix of Latin-American, indigenous, and East-Asian influences. Everything in the house, from the doors to the window shutters, is carefully chiseled from sticks of bamboo. (11km from Orosi on the road to the town of Cachí. From Orosi, cross the foot bridge over the river just east of town. Turn left and follow the main road. La Casa del Soñador is about 8km along on the right, just past the town of Cachi. A taxi from Orosi (☎2379 3993), with a visit to the nearby Ruinas de Ujarrás, ¢8500 round-trip.)
Las Ruinas De Ujarrás. The village of Ujarrás was abandoned after it was virtually destroyed by floods and earthquakes in 1833, but the ruins of the 17th-century church draw a constant flow of tourists, mostly on tours with Orosi hotels. In a park surrounded by coffee plantations, the church is said to have been built when a man found a wooden box in a river, which he brought to Ujarrás. He found a statue of the Virgin inside and was no longer able to move it from Ujarrás. The statue, known as La Virgen de Candelaria, has since been moved to the town of Paraíso, along with the rest of Ujarrás’s residents. Locals continue to celebrate their sacred Virgin with an annual parade from Paraíso to Ujarrás in late March or early April. (From Orosi, catch a bus to Paraíso from the northeast corner of the soccer field. (20min., every 30min. 4:45am-9:15pm, ¢155.) From Paraíso, buses leave every 20-30min. for Cachí. Ask the driver to let you off at the north end of the road to Ujarrás. From there, it’s about a 2km walk. Return to the main road to hail a bus. Or take a taxi and visit nearby La Casa del Soñador as well, ¢8500 round-trip. Open daily from dawn to dusk. Free.)
Orosi isn’t exactly a hopping hub of nightlife, although it offers a few solid options for a fun night on the town.
Orosi hotels work with local tour and outdoor adventure companies to arrange trips to local attractions. Montaña Linda offers whitewater rafting and guided tours of Orosi Valley, Volcán Irazú, and Monumento Nacional Guayabo. (Rafting US$65. Orosi US$5. Irazú US$20, not including park fee; 3-person min. Monumento Nacional Guayabo US$40, including park fee; 2-person min.) Montaña Linda offers directions, as well as other hiking directions to a swimming hole, natural hot springs, waterfall, scenic walks, and awesome panoramic views of the Orosi and Cachí Valley; check out the 3-4hr. “Yellow Church Walk.” The Orosi Lodge arranges combined tours of Volcán Irazú, Mirador Orosi, and La Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles (US$60); Parque Nacional Tapantí (US$45); Orosi Valley, a sugar cane mill, La Casa del Soñador, and the Lankester Botanical Gardens (US$40).
The lengthy 12km hike from Orosi to Parque Nacional Tapantí passes by rolling coffee plantations. Head south along the main road from Orosi; the first half of the hike is fairly flat, but the road gets steeper and rockier near the park. If you’re short on time or energy, you can take a cab (1-way ¢6000), and walk back down or arrange for the cab to pick you up. }2551 2970. Open daily 7am-5pm. US$10.
Twelve kilometers away from central Orosi, Parque Nacional Tapantí is a 61 sq. km. former wildlife refuge famous for the highest average rainfall (7m per year) in Costa Rica. The resulting 150 rivers and streams criss-cross a pristine rainforest inhabited by an enormous diversity of wildlife: 45 species of mammals, including tapirs, pacas, jaguars, and kinkajous; 260 species of birds; 32 species of reptiles and amphibians, including three types of vipers; and an average of 80-160 species of trees per hectare. The huge amounts of rainfall that Tapantí receives are used to generate hydroelectric power for most of San José’s population downstream at La Represa de Cachí.
From the park entrance, it is 4km upward on the wide Camino Principal to a scenic overlook point. You are unlikely to see much wildlife on the main trail, so veer off left onto the Arboles Caídos (2km) trail for the best chance to see animals. La Pava trail branches a short way off the Camino Principal and leads to the Río Grande at two separate points. Swimming is not possible at either point, and the waterfall seen from the Catarata branch is also visible from the summit of the Camino Principal, so skip La Pava unless you have plenty of time. Before leaving the park, cool off by following the Oropéndola trail to the river and taking a dip. Although camping is not permitted, the park offers very basic rooms in a 15-person capacity cabin. The communal showers have lukewarm water. Bring a sleeping bag and food to cook in the kitchen. (¢1500 per person. Call } 2551 2970 in advance to secure a bed.) Spanish- and English-language maps are available at the ranger station. Insect repellent is necessary, since the mosquitoes at the park are ravenous, particularly by the river.
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